hawairish

Sorry to tangent a little, but would there be an added benefit to having this supplemental fan wired run under both conditions, at x° temp and with AC? Seems like that would cover low speed, hot weather applications pretty well.

The post mjotrainbrain provided is a good one. There are several other write-ups.

Doubtful. But on the bright side, that skid is NLA from Nissan, so might be able to upsell.

Of all the vehicles I've owned, my R50 is the only one that consumes oil and shows no proof of it. I'm in the same boat here...I seriously have no clue where the oil goes. I intend to pull the top end off and replace all the gaskets and PCV valve one of these weeks, hoping a freshener may also improve the mileage.

Yes and no. In most scenarios, they reduce drivetrain strain because they distribute load equally. A fully locked vehicle distributes 25% of the load to each tire—the most efficient scenario you can hope for. An open diff can distribute 50/50, but as soon as a tire slips, it's as as good as 0/0, so something else has to do the work. Consider the scenario with a front tire in the air with an open diff...the rear axle does all the pushing, 50% per rear shaft. With a front locker, load reduces to 33%. If a rear tire breaks traction even for a brief instance, load to that front CV can shoot up from 33% to 100% because the rear is effectively not helping (this is where even a worn LSD is better than an open diff). This is a scenario to avoid, of course, because you're asking one CV to drag the entire truck forward. Momentum can help, but often times, it will hurt. For the front, CVs are probably the weakest link. But keep in mind they are also the strongest when they are straight. That's where excessive lift weakens them...more angle is less efficiency. When they bind, you've already exceeded their working angle, and breakage will soon follow. As a real-world example to that, put a ratchet on an angle joint...it's far easier to tighten a bolt when the joint is straight than when it's angled. Even having the tire in air with a locker can break the CV, particularly if the tire is brought to a sudden stop (like when the tire lands back on the ground).

If you abuse it, sure. Or likely in conjunction with too much lift, but that's a failure with the lift, not the locker. Never had a problem with the Lokka when I had it, and now with an ARB, it's no different. Doesn't matter the vehicle or the locking method, there are a lot of CV-busting things you shouldn't do. Gunning it up a rock is one of them...it's when it abruptly catches traction is when you should expect something to break.

Would he need to remove the thrust block in the diff for the swap? Changing the outer grease seal requires completely disassembling the axle shaft assembly...which requires a press, and is a lot of work for a $1 part and likely warrants changing out the bearings while you're in there. Definitely change out the inner oil seal at the end of the tube...noting that I've had to destroy them to remove them. Lastly, there's a large o-ring on the outer lip of the axle tube that should be replaced.

EL-49 in the 94 FSM says it's NO and that it interrupts the wiper motor relay. Not sure how much the design has changed on the wiper motor assembly, but I had this problem on my 04. The wiper motor assembly housing (which houses the switch) had a crack in it that reduced its rigidity, and ultimately prevented the wiper arm from fully seating in the plastic rest below the window. It was just enough to not close the circuit. I wrapped the housing tightly with gaffers tape and haven't had the problem since.

Posted a reply on NICO, but to recap here, your 2wd has a 2-piece driveshaft that uses a center support bearing, common to all RWD Nissans cars and trucks. They even used the same part across the board, p/n 37521-6P026. OEM replacements can be had for $25-$40, and it's a straightforward job. I'd pull the driveshaft down first and confirm it spins freely.

Sorry, meant this as a statement, not a question.

Where were they tight? Did you push the pistons back into the calipers before installing the new pads? A dab of brake lube on the retaining clips is also good. The caliper assembly should be able to move freely on the pins, which is best tested with the pads removed?

Welcome back!

Sounds like a short in the LED bulbs. Put the OE ones back in and see if the problem goes away.

Yeah, it'd be nice if they mounted to the OE step locations, but not the case. But yes, your bolt count sounds about right according to the post jyeager linked. However, my RRO sliders are like Rick13's in that thread, where mine have 3 attachment legs (6 bolts) and I think two pinch-seam bolts. Either way, yes, you need to drill into the unibody to mount them. Did you receive large self-tapping bolts with them? That's supposedly the original attachment method, though I'm not a fan of it. However, I put the truck on them a few times the other weekend, and they held up very well.

Oh well. Just needed something for measurements...

Did you replace the arms completely, or just change out the bushings? If the former, got your old arms available?

Gotcha, 2wd. The difference in tire sizes causes the ABS tone rings at each corner to spin at different rates. The truck expects all of the sensors to be returning the same signal frequency, but the front tires are rotating faster than the rears, and the system believes that your front tires are slipping so can't proportion the brakes properly and throws a code.

Agreed. That's how I read it. Shouldn't do it even if not in 4wd...it'll confused the ABS system.

This was on my 4-cyl Frontier. Had a noise, not so much a grind as it was an occasional screech/squeak, but I knew the bearings on an idler pulley were getting a little worn. At the time, though, replacement bearings and pulleys weren't available, not even from Nissan (later determined that a 240SX bearing fit, but different pulley despite similar engine). Best I could do was pull it and try to inject some grease. But, while driving (and making a turn, no less), instantly lost power steering when the bearing grenaded, shooting steel balls everywhere. Sounded like a glass bottle had exploded under the hood. The sound and the steering feedback...I damn near shat my pantalones. Will need someone to rev it up...drive by wire; no throttle cable.

Hopefully it's something external to your engine. Not sure it'd be the transmission if it occurs in park. Check that all your pulleys are tight, yet spin freely. Any slight grinding from them, and the bearings may be ready to go. It's not fun when one of those grenades on you (ask me how I know). Checking may require removal of the belts. May make sense to change the belts while you're at it...but if you suspect a bad pulley, just re-use the current belts so that if it fails, it won't damage a new belt. Having an extra helper to throttle it will you listen under the hood helps, of course.

Those are the OME HD coils. You'll have to ask AC why they don't advertise them, and many other parts, as such. Breaking down their part numbers... SPAME928...Spring, Pathfinder, Old Man Emu, p/n 2928 is their heavy-duty spring. SPOME923...Spring, Pathfinder, Old Man Emu, p/n 2923 is their medium-duty spring. SPOME921...Spring, Pathfinder, Old Man Emu, p/n 2921 is their light-duty spring. All 3 springs have the same spring rate (200 lbs/in), just different free lengths. See here. The $167 they charge it almost exactly what everyone else sells OME springs for, but a few places offer free shipping. The $180 spring is the 2" AC spring.

Bearing: Race: Bearing driver kit you can rent from just about any parts store for $0 (you buy it with a refundable deposit): My recommendation before you dive into changing them is to spray off all the grease with some brake cleaner, then roll them by hand. If they feel jerky or rough, they should be replaced. HF has a cheap dial indicator for checking runout to see if your rotors are worn or warped.

Lol. Cojones mas grandes. I really wish we had a video or better pics of the final obstacle. That was something awesome. Basically about 150' of 1.5'-2' boulder steps. I ended up getting hung up a couple times when the slick rock shifted the truck, but eventually wormed up it. It did a number on my front skid plate... Already got plans for a new one. Here's the video of the obstacle just ahead of where the Xterra and I are waiting in that first pic: I was with 2nd Gen Frontier CC and Xterra Pro-4X trucks, so they only had rear lockers. They struggled a bit over the 2nd boulder...what you can't see was a deep sandy spot that was just robbing traction for both front and rear tires. What I lacked in ground clearance, I made up on traction, but it's time for more lift.

Went on a kick-off run for two local Nissan groups to a trail called Hackberry Creek. Three of us opted for a more-difficult trail, and it was great. Skids, sliders, and lockers were a must. Heavy overnight rains turned much of the trail into waterways, and near-freezing temps and wind kept things interesting. Definitely bent at least one trailing arm, the front skid is a little more bowl-like, and the rear bumper is probably beyond repair. All the reason for a proper bumper, right??