hawairish

Did you post up some pics of other brake backing plates, and if so, which did yours look like? If it's for the 87 SE in your profile, based on a quick search of the RH adjuster, p/n 44200-31G10, it looks like any 86-89 D21 4WD (2.4L or 3.0L) and 87-89 WD21 will work. Even if it has the C200 axle, they are very similar axles. The axle shafts are practically identical, and otherwise dimensionally the same with exception of the differential and gears.

Thanks Kyle! Little bit of an update...didn't make much traction during another lousy work week, but made it a point to unwind and move this project forward. I decided to use these as the tailgate's hinge pins, which will also allow the gate to be removable. 5/8" pins, weldable bodies, $11/ea on Amazon. I started welding up the tailgate today. I made a bit more progress than shown below, but this is the idea: The tailgate is 14" x 45", almost 4.4 sqft. It'll have ribbing for support, and 1/2"-thick birch plywood panels for the surface. I don't plan to have support cables, but am still throwing around ideas on how to keep it upright and/or latched. I don't want to undo more than the hinge pins to remove it. Right now, I have an idea to make it spring loaded. I struggled figuring out how to secure the rack to the truck. Bunchie's suggestions to use either the bicycle-style cam locks ("quick positioning cam handles" at McMaster) or threaded knobs looked promising, but hardware costs and security became factors. The cams seem great, but are a pricey solution to satisfy 4 mounting points. The sizes on the threaded knobs are a little too big for how I had begun setting up the mounting points, and I didn't feel like redoing that work. Plus, the only affordable ones were plastic, and I couldn't trust that. The metal ones were too pricey. My original idea, just required too much in parts and precision to justify making it tool-less. It hindsight, I would have been better off making some sort of hook bracket for the rear of the rack that it just slides into, and then would only need two fasteners at the front (rear of the vehicle) to secure it. I decided to take the KISS approach and just buy socket bolts, fender washers, and an 8mm Allen key for <$10. Minimal tool use and a more secure approach. The rack will sit atop metal blocks that bolt where the tie-down points are, with the socket bolts threading into a rivet nut. All the cargo rack weight will rest on the blocks and not the carpet. I'll get some better pics of the mounting solution once the blocks are all finished. Once the tailgate and mounting system are sorted, the rack can be pulled from the truck and set up like this: The top of the rack will have the same hinge pin holes. Surface height ends up being 29", which works out well. The reason I wanted to keep the mounting feet on the rack like shown is so that I can just drive a tent stake into the front feet to prevent it from falling backwards (of course, my kitchen gear and cooler would also be sitting on the rack for additional weight). Anyway, still a work in progress. I decided that I'm just going to paint it with a gray enamel, since I have some rattle cans leftover in that flavor. I'll also be painting that old Coleman cooler, but instead in a hunter or olive green. Didn't post these up before, but here's how the milk crates fit in:

Good idea. Funny you mention them...I've been parked at their website for the past few days trying to figure out some ideas for the cargo rack project.

Nice, jjonez! I'm really glad this approach has become viable for others. I tried something similar with the foam pads, instead using a neoprene sheet, but yeah, it needs to be thin and compressed like 1/16" rubber sheet (which, btw, is what was originally used...I tried to get the OE pieces but they are NLA). I ended up not using anything, but may revisit it at some point. Glad the fender washers approach worked. And yes, if there's any concern for damage, it's if the carrier opens too quickly. Be very mindful of this. There's not really a good solution for this. In my case, since I'm using bolts and not the OE pins, I can tighten them up to slow down movement. I may reconsider the placement of the liftgate strut I also use to control opening.

Not the case here. There's an inner oil seal that seats near the end of axle tube, and it seals against the axle shaft to keep gear oil out of the bearing cup. There's also a large o-ring on the outside of the end of the axle tube to keep the elements out. Lastly, the grease seal that's sandwiched between the axle shaft hub and the bearing cup is what keeps the grease in bearing. I'm planning to reassemble all the loose parts I have sitting to make complete axle shaft assemblies. If I get a free hand, I'll try to capture some pics of the process. (Mattmill91: if you think you could use the finished assemblies, let me know.)

And btw, there are bearings on clearance at RockAuto right now, $9/ea.

That's the thing...you can't really do any PM on them. You can inspect them, if you're willing to undo all the brakes lines and pull the assemblies out, but that's about it. One bearing is completely obstructed, and the other barely accessible...you need some pretty hefty syringe to inject grease into the bearings. At least with the assembly out you could try to sense any bearing issues, but for that trouble, may as well consider redoing the bearings anyway.

Surprisingly, this actually isn't an unexpected result for this sort of failure. It's inherent to the semi-float axle design we have. The only thing that keeps the axle shaft attached to the truck is the wheel bearing. It's highly improbable that the shaft will actually slide out of the bearing (they require several tons of force to press together), but it only takes a couple dislodged or damaged rollers to allow the cone to slip from the race. In his 2nd to last pic, you can see that the inner cone has this massive score halfway up the cone, and a lip on the cone—where the outside of the rollers would rest against—is completely gone. The weakest link, then, is the bearing. Although there's a plastic retainer that seems flimsy, it's function is pretty low-duty. But like any bearing, debris, poor/deteriorated lubrication (i.e., water, gear oil contamination), and heat will be the death of it. Once a roller binds, it becomes a chain reaction, imminent doom.

0.17° is correct, with a min of -0.58° and max 0.92°. Difference between the L and R side should be less than 0.75°. Values are in the FSM, in SUspension chapter. Check the SDS section at the end of Front Suspension.

Bunchie, that's excellent idea! My original plan had it 32", but ended up being 30.5". Pretty close, but it was a trade-off height to clear the rear opening when removing. Going off that suggestion, a fold-up platform on the backside of the rack would be great. That would keep all the gear accessible, and give me space. I bought a pair of folding/locking shelf brackets (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F9O4YPY/) for a project but haven't used them yet. Only problem with this approach is that it consumes space between rack and seats. I have a little space to work with, but was reserving the space for some other stuff. Since I intend to make a tailgate, and it'll be detachable, I could make it attachable to the top of the rack. The tailgate wouldn't be useful near the ground, and for the size I want, it needs to be detachable for removing the rack anyway. I think that's the best approach, and doesn't add any more weight. I'll have to rethink the mounting now. I made a decision yesterday and welded on mounting feet, taking a bolt-down approach. Didn't take a picture,and can't upload a sketch of it right now, but I took 1.5" x 2.5" x .125" wall tube steel, cut pieces to length, each with 90° cut on one side and 45° on the other, and welded them to the base. The 45° cut allows overhead socket access, and holes at the bottom will allow bolting to all 8 bolt holes for the anchors. I could keep that approach, but drill a single hole in each mount instead of 2 holes. Then, I can make a tee-like bracket with a clevis pin or bolt welded to it as a post. The mounts would just lift over the post and then hitch pin or nut/wingnut secures it. That would make it tool-less, and also solves another problem, where I need some sort of spacer to account for the carpet thickness. Despite all that, you've now got me thinking about cutting those mounts off and going yet another approach. Something where I can just slide the rack into place. Thanks for the suggestion! Back to the drawing board!

Hey fellas, I presume you're talking about the cables that connect to the backing plates and not the central cable coming from the lever? If so, I have two sets of brake cables for disc brake WD21s in my stash. One set doesn't have the springs on the very end of them because I used them for my disc brake swap...surely you could re-use yours (they can be twisted on/off by opening the springs ends a little). Haven't looked at them for a while, but I believe them to be in good shape...I'll have to take a look at them when I get home later today. Lemme know if I can help.

Yeah, the handles are solid. I usually do loop through them. I just don't want to have to loop through the back handle. I also decided it's time for that cooler to get re-painted...I have some leftover Obsidian Black Pearl spray from my WRX days. The red on there is probably lead-based, with a layer of asbestos inside that makes it keep cool better than anything else I've used. Thanks!

You'll probably need to tap it on all sides with a rubber mallet...at some point you might get enough clearance to wedge a prybar or flat screwdriver near the bolt holes. The part you see coming outside the cup isn't the race, it's part of the casting. You can also try twisting the cup clockwise or counter-clockwise. That might break any rust buildup and give you a flat surface to tap against. A punch on one of the bolt hole ears ought to get it started.

I plan to use ratchet straps. I have enough spare straps to cut them down to specific lengths on the rack. There are a few points where I will add a loop, or some other form of adjustable attachment point. But yes, I liked the lattice approach since it makes the attachment points variable for whatever I might have on the rack. The cooler strapping is something I'm still figuring out. I could easily strap over the top and body, but I want to keep it accessible by just opening the liftgate glass. A strap around the body alone will keep it pinned against the rack, but if the cooler lifts for any reason, it may create slack. I'm thinking I might modify the cooler with some sort of cleat that seats into the rack and would simplify the attachment process.

Thanks! Yeah, I've been sitting on this welder for several months now...hadn't even opened the box until the other week...very nervous about starting, figuring something (me) would catch fire. I wish I hadn't waited so long, but it became a must-try recently, and I'm definitely enjoying it. This opens a major door for me. Doubt I'll be welding up bumpers with this little thing, but it'll help me get the ball rolling on several truck projects that I've been needing to start. I'll definitely keep this updated with progress. I'd like to get the tailgate in place if I can before my trip. Stay tuned.

Lol, yeah, drilling that first hole into metal is tough one! Good deal. Yeah, worth a shot taking the bolt approach. Toughest thing might be having full tool access to work both inside and outside the truck to get the hardware tightened. Get whatever assistance you can ensuring that the carrier's weight isn't resting on too few rivnuts/bolts, otherwise it will distort the body metal. I found it easiest to work with the gate closed, some wood that supports the carrier gate at the same level it will be when closed. Also be mindful if using larger washers inside the panel that the edge of the washer might press the body steel outward on some curves. May want to use a ball peen hammer to cup the washers maybe?

Got more things tacked up for my cargo rack and fitment checks. Work in progress! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/43634-cargo-rack/

Thought I'd share my first welding project! Been working on it for a several days and nights, but finally got all the main pieces welded or tacked up for my cargo rack. Not finished yet, but getting close... Designed to fit up to 4 standard milk crates or 2 common large totes on the left shelves, and a cooler (up to 50Q-60Q sized 12V fridge/freezers) on the right. A table has become camp essential and it required a dedicated space...tired of it being the first thing I have to pack and the last thing I can even access. It's not pushed all the way back in the pic, but it doesn't protrude past the front of the rack. After several design ideas, I went with this because it allowed me get two levels of containers, clear the different-height wheel wells, and leave cooler access (great for the on-the-way-out stop to add ice)...oh yeah, and allow it to be removeable from the truck (hence angles on racks). Also leaves some larger odd spaces for soft goods. The cooler shelf is a bit higher than the wheel well because the floor jack and rod will be relocated to the area underneath, between wheel well and liftgate. Haven't had to, but I don't want to remove my kids and their carseats to access those tools. I'm contemplating making a long drawer for the opening above the table, but might just leave as-is or add some support bars for long objects like chairs. Still figuring out what to do about the carpet, too, since I use the cubby space to hold all my towing gear, and suspension and steering spares...stuff I don't normally need access to, but could. There will be a 40"x16"-ish tailgate, too, that'll fold down level with the lowest shelf and give plenty of additional flat space. For now, I just need the rack part ready for an upcoming camp/off-road trip. For mounting, still deciding between adding tabs and bolting directly where the 4 anchor points on the cargo floor are, or adding loops and using turnbuckles with the anchor points. The base is a little too wide to use the rear anchors through, but I'm rethinking using turnbuckle. A tool-less installation and removal would be nice, though I plan to leave it mounted in the truck so it's not a major requirement. I'm using .5", 1", and 1"x1.5" 16GA/.065 mild steel tube. Much of it came from a side gate I replaced earlier this year, so that's why some parts are still black. I can't believe how much of a rip-off 1" tube steel from HD/Lowes is...6'@$23 vs 40'@$27 from a local steel supply. Current weight is just under 50lbs (a sheet of 1/2" plywood weighs about 65 lbs). Thinking I'll probably just put spray some appliance/enamel paint on it when done. For my first welding project, I'm pleased. Some welds have turned out a lot better than others, of course, but I'm getting the hang of it. I still need to finish some welds and grind a few more down. I've become good friends with my angle grinder, but I planned to do a lot of grinding to keep all the surfaces smooth for sliding gear around. Bunch of Harbor Freight stuff, nothing has disappointed. I sketched up everything using SketchUp Make. Great little free program, if you're not familiar with it.

Yeah, sucks, but doesn't look too bad. Pass through insurance, take the money, replace the fender yourself, get it painted, spend the rest on a steel bumper that'll do more than scuff some turd's bumper. Then hunt him down and winch his parked car into a street.

Ah gotcha...now's the repair process! So on that new pic, does look like maybe the fingers on the nut retainer simply ground off as the axle shaft moved outward. That inner bearing cone is fully destroyed...and that's the bearing that really does all the work of keeping the axle shaft in. You can see how there's a step-lip on the outer bearing cone that's pretty much missing on the inner bearing. The tone ring may just be sitting inside the bearing cup that's still attached to the axle tube. There are 4 nuts that just need to be removed to remove the cup. And yes, the bearing race is pressed into the bearing cup. That assembly is "pressed" onto the axle shaft when the inner bearing is pressed onto the shaft. Don't forget to replace the grease seal. The way I do it is to press the race into the cup first, grease the hell out of the outer side of the race, put the outer race in (more grease), then press the grease seal on. Then, grease up the inner side of the race, insert bearing, then press that entire assembly together. Don't forget to put the brake backing plate back onto the cup! Check for runout before re-assembly too...take it to a drivetrain shop and have them check even.

I've spun one of my rivnuts for the latch pieces, but that was before I put the aluminum reinforcement on (and part of the reason for doing it, as the metal around it had bent a little). The rivnut, though, didn't fail until after a few removals. I've used a drill and socket to attach mine without problems. I've used locally-purchased and McMaster ones for several projects already. One thing about the Astro tool is that it doesn't quite have a specific twist-on amount that seems to work for all of the sizes it works with. For sure, if you collapse too much, the thread body shifts off center. When that happens, the bolt gets gouged up by the flange opening, and basically starts the cross threading process. For the M8 and M10 rivnut dies, I've found that twisting the rivnuts on completely and then backing them off a turn or so tends to be ideal. Full twist-on causes over-collapse, insufficient twist-in causes spinning (or over-collapse if you find yourself wanting/needing to collapse it further with another squeeze). Keeping the tool upright and perpendicular to the mounting surface can also be tough, but is important. It works well for what it does, there's a little learning curve. Except in cases where I've over-collapsed a rivnut, I don't think there's a time I haven't been able to finger tighten bolt after installation, seriously. Do you have any hesitation when threading the rivnut on the die? That's never been a problem for me, either. Something I also do is I always thread my rivnuts fully onto the hardware before even installing the rivnuts...just a weird habit of mine so that I know I have all the hardware I need before inserting them (and don't accidentally put an M8 rivnut instead of an M10 one because they use the same size hole). Again, never had a problem. Maybe yours are getting boogered up after the installation? And yes, looks like you've got right idea for the aluminum. That's how I did it because it was applied after-the-fact. Is yours a strap or angle piece?

You do know I have a spare set of disc brakes, right? With the 31-spline shafts you've got, you could use those. Just need the gears (easy!). Now that I'm off my phone and can see the pics better...yeah, the bearing is toast indeed. That is the only thing that keeps the axle shaft attached to the truck, as you've found out. Lock nut appears fine, ABS tone ring missing, just need to see if the axle shaft didn't get warped. I'd think the differential and spline ends to be fine (easy to tell, just put the axle shaft back in). Though...you posted the last pic back in June. Is this carnage from the same event or was it repaired sometime after? Something doesn't look right. Maybe the tone ring busted off from the event (yet I needed a floor press to remove several), not sure if I see the lock nut retainer, and I can't tell if there's a flat washer between it and the inner bearing cone. I would also expect to see something left from at least one of the bearings (the bearing is actually two bearings). It would have definitely needed to be a catastrophic failure of one bearing to completely wipe out the other bearing in that scenario...literal part grenading. The thing is, though, that these things are sandwiched when tons of force, and even with a plastic cage on the rollers, it's got to be sufficient...there's not many places for the rollers to go, even if the plastic cage degrades. Surely this was preceded by noise or grinding? Is there a remotely possibility that this was repaired incorrectly?? Here's the breakdown of parts, not including the drum backing plates: L to R: ABS tone ring, lock nut, lock nut retainer, washer, inner bearing, bearing race race, outer bearing, bearing cup, grease seal.

Yeah, not following. If the bearing is toast, you can either replace it (bearing is $19 from RA but you'll need a floor press), or get a complete RH axle shaft with brakes from any donor 96-00 R50, and then it's just bolt-on and some brake work. If the lock nut on the axle shaft shot off from the pressure, then the axle shaft probably can't be re-used...you'll need to look at the threads on the axle shaft above the bearing to confirm. Then buy a new lock nut and lock nut retainer. I can provide some pics if you want to see the breakdown. If you're desperate, I think I can also build you a full assembly...I think I have everything I need in my garage right now.

Thanks Johann. I'd love to hear more about how he approached the setup. I had a few other ideas in mind, but this is about as OE as one can get for us. Might as well give an update while I'm at it...the truck now has 181K miles, so a little less than 4K since Nov. Truck still brakes well, zero complaints. Only notable is that a few months ago my ABS light came on and I haven't been able to clear it. I don't think it is related to the swap considering that there were a few months gap before it came on, and nothing about the sensing system has changed. When diagnosing, the system indicates it's the ABS module itself. Eventually I'll get a proper scanner that can cycle it, but for now, I haven't even seen an impact. I did redo the 'stairs' on the Broken Arrow trail in Sedona a few weeks ago. I originally reported that the drums setup was a little sloppy. This time around, I could tell it was braking better, but it's clear now that it's time to redo my springs (I've done a few offroad trips in those 4K miles). The cheap pads and rotors were a little squeaky, but it was clamping well. On a notable, I turned around and climbed those stairs faster than I came down. Group of ATVers said "no chance"...suckers. Lockers are worth every single penny.

Glad to have you back, Virgil! I've been watching your progress on FB, and I'm impressed. Looks like you expanded fully into the Overland world; definitely wishing you the best of luck on those endeavors. Don't forget about us little people! Bummer watching the old truck rust away from your driveway, though. Take care!