hawairish

Hmm. Well, for what it’s worth, I saw Diesel Kiki referenced with Zekel in a few places actually, including the 4th link I provided. Perhaps it’s the DK of DKV? Pg. 8, as "DIESEL KIKI (ZEKEL)": https://usermanual.wiki/Document/ACCOMPRESSOROILCHECKING.1759211196.pdf

This is a little connecting-the-dots, but I'd be certain it's PAG-100, too. This is based on a few things: NTB96-023a, which is the Nissan TSB for converting from R-12 to R-134a (Link) lists 86-92 D21 as using the ZEXEL DKV-14C compressor and requiring "Nissan A/C System Oil Type R" (p/n KVH00-PAGR0), with the "R" being for rotary vane compressors. "Type S" is for swash plate compressors. The 1994 WD21 FSM says it uses the same DKV-14C compressor and Type R oil, and also confirms that the model type is "vane rotary" (pg. HA-116) This (pg. 1, #70) and this (pg. 13) and this (under Infiniti Zekel DKV-14C) and this (as Zekel DKV) and a few others show as using PAG-100. Notably, the Four Seasons 58440 compressor is vane-style compressor that specifically uses PAG-46 according to the 4s website. Same seems true with other aftermarket replacements. But at least per the internet, it seemed largely that "Zekel DKV" compressors use PAG-100. The real question now is if your 94 donor compressor is OE. A few months ago I did a R-134a conversion on a 91 Land Cruiser. Finding good information was a joke. I eventually found a Toyota TSB that spelled most of it out, but still left me with a ton of questions. I had to do the same stupid OEM name vs PAG-equivalent look-up, so I totally feel your pain here.

Nope, AC is its own brand. You can only get them from 4x4parts.com, aka Automotive Customizers (AC). AC sells OMEs, but they mask brand names on practically everything. The springs they sell for around $167 are OMEs; the $180 ones are their house brand.

So to be clear, the lower u-joint is damaged. Nothing may be snapped, but it sure looks borked to me in more ways than one. If I'm seeing it correctly, there were at least two problems: The shaft piece was not properly secured correctly by the set screws, or otherwise installed incorrectly. The shaft piece either slid into the joint space, or too much shaft was left exposed when installed, and during turns, the journals made contact with the exposed shaft, causing them to bend. That explains why the bearing cap is protruded from the fork (this is normally flush, and I see damage to the cap by the retaining screw), and why I can't see the fork in the background...it's bent out of position. The mark on the end of the shaft I was starting to mistake as a set screw indentation, is actually from the fork making contact with the shaft. The rack was probably not rotated enough. I can see binding marks on the fork that I don't think would have been caused after the journal had started to bend. If the rack was rotated enough, some shaft exposure might have still been ok, as the joint wouldn't have oscillated as much and potentially avoiding contact. Still, the lower joint sees a more extreme angle than the upper joint, so any exposed length is not desirable. Notably, rotating the rack too much can also lead to exposing the shaft (more rotation means less shaft length needed), but again, the binding marks suggest it wasn't rotated enough. Having purchased and installed several of these links and joints, I know the Woodward joints are high quality. The failure here is from either installation or maintenance, not the part itself. Are set screws missing? Those should have had threadlocker applied after confirming the steering was aligned correctly. For the upper part that slipped out, is there a set screw groove on the shaft? Are there set screw marks in that groove? Your best bet at this point is probably to buy a new lower u-joint from Woodward and wait it out. You may also need a new shaft piece, since the damage at the end will make it difficult to remove from the u-joint, and will require some filing to repair in order to re-use, if you can even remove it from the joint (might be easiest to remove the journal first then push the shaft through). My homework on the Honda joint suggested it wasn't even the right spline count and only conveniently fit because it was slightly oversized and, as a clamp-style, non-cast joint with an opening, could be tightened enough to take up that missing spline. I don't think it was ever clear what model/year it came from, either; some early 90's Accord perhaps. It was also for the upper joint, and your failure appears to be on the lower joint, so it's not going to help you much. Plus, all the DIY steering links I've seen have looked like dangerous garbage, so unless you've got the fabrication skills, I'd stick with what works and ensure that the next installation is done correctly.

Thanks. Pic's a bit blurry. If I'm seeing it correctly, the cap came through the side? Is the journal on the opposite snapped? Is the fork on the backside bent, too? Damage like that would only occur under binding, and binding would occur if the rack rotated back into its normal position (or wasn't rotated enough)...or too much SFD. 4" I presume?

Got a pic of the damage, and have you reached out to Woodward? Joint like those don't fail magically; they're pretty stout. Was the steering rack rotated enough during the install, and did it stay in that position?

Nah, those guys (plus TheexBrit) have gone a lot harder and farther than I have. (Saw that Stioc put his truck up for sale, too.)

It's been a thought. I think I should part ways with my Frontier KC 2WD and want to find a 1st gen Frontier SC CC 4WD instead...which, of course, my lockers and brakes would be direct swaps to (and I've got an entire spare rear axle and suspension to make it 5-link rear, if I'm so inclined). Just a thought, though. I can't haul steel with an R50 unless I get a trailer. Not to say the truck can't get through obstacles. That's never been a problem. Always doing it gracefully, however...I think that's how my passenger slider ended up against the kick panel. Nay. But, I'd love to put a 2wd VQ into the Frontier if I keep it. Didn't see any mention of logs. Saw "Jersey beach" which had me thinking about sand, empty glass bottles, and some t-shirt joke about Jersey girls not being trash ("trash gets picked up"). I'm glad you have a different experience; I need to hear that, but also wanting to confirm our usage of 4L is the same. If your terrain can relate to what's in that video (that sums up my entire region and the trails I run) with prolonged grades and big dumb obstacles, and you're dropping to 4L to scale obstacles like those, then that's what I want to confirm. I'm not expecting it to idle over anything, but I don't think my expectations of the truck are unrealistic under throttle either. I assure you I've already built my truck up the way I want, and in terms of drivetrain and traction, the only core upgrade I've not done is crawler gears. Hard to not feel frustrated when I've taken all the right steps to make the truck more capable, only to realize its weakest link is probably some stupid transmission control module.

Not sure we're apples-apples here. I have no problems driving in 4L on flat or moderate terrain. I don't think a beach and the desert terrain I'm usually on have much in common except some sand. The specific scenario I'm referring to is when climbing an obstacle, and the throttle build-up that occurs. At the slightest throttle change, the truck will either lunge forward or completely dump torque and roll back; there's no middle ground where it just "crawls". Comparing to a manual transmission, it'd be like pressing the clutch in when giving it a little gas, or revving up with the clutch at moderate pressure, and then just dumping the clutch pedal, where the vehicle won't stall, but it'll bump forward. There's no sweet spot where you've got just enough clutch pressure to give it some gas and it'll both move forward and slip just enough. My '08 Wrangler w/ 6MT was perfect for this, where you could be almost completely off the clutch and in 4L and the truck would just move. Here's the video from my latest trip that really put me at my tipping point. See specifically: https://youtu.be/hzffJ3nu-T4?t=230 — lots of rollback trying to avoid lunging up that rock just trying to position the truck. Around 5:38, I'm having to rev up quickly a few times to get any response and avoid rollback. https://youtu.be/hzffJ3nu-T4?t=1119 — especially at 18:52 where it just catches and goes. Spotter thinks I'm trying to kill everyone, but in reality, the revs sounded like they were holding. Both lockers were engaged and there was no slippage until the 1st lunge, when a boulder broke loose under my left-rear tire. During that obstacle (and clipped from the video, after I suggested needing a manual transmission) even the spotter said he could hear the truck flare/rev up excessively, not move, then just catch. https://youtu.be/hzffJ3nu-T4?t=1633 — in particular 27:39 and again 27:42...you can hear me trying to rev up just to move and barely get a response, then it just goes. Bear in mind I'm on a near 45° decline...how much throttle should I really even need?! The guys think I was going to launch it, and the whole time I was trying to feather it. For all I know, maybe I suck at driving this truck and should give it all up. I am absolutely not the type of wheeler who just guns it through obstacles; frankly, I hate those sort of people. But what irks me the most is looking like some reckless idiot with no regard for his truck, when I'm not even remotely out to damage or destroy my truck (though it is an accepted risk). @Mr_Reverse, admittedly, my two-pedal does need work and it is something I practice on occasion...I'm just never comfortable doing it. I don't trust my right foot enough. I'd rather pull the e-brake and throttle up. @adamzan, I'd totally take that response-and-lunge over this no-response-and-lunge any day. The throttle response in my truck is quite responsive, but not knowing when it's going to connect is frustrating. Anyway, this thread can probably die at this point. There's probably nothing "fixable" on the truck, so I either suck it up or get rid of it.

Seems like the consensus, then, is that the DBW is too sensitive...though, that may be synonymous with "more responsive", and ultimately by-design? It could be just that my driving sucks, though I'm definitely not a run-and-gun wheeler. Being that I wheel with a lot of D40/N40 guys, I would have expected similar behavior from their trucks, but I've not observed that. They have a considerably better crawl ratio (33.9:1 for a 5/AT, vs. 26.1:1 in mine), and I wonder if that makes that much of a difference.

If you’re feeling it in the steering wheel, it’s probably an issue up front. If it was any sort of wobble or vibration, I’d say rear driveshaft or trailing arms. When you torqued all the trailing arm bolts, was the truck on the ground?

Just to clarify something about the SFD talk...main takeaway is that the engine (among other things) is supported by a subframe on the truck. @TowndawgR50's recommendation earlier is to loosen the subframe so that it'll allow the transmission to tip down at the rear so you can get access to the upper bellhousing bolts with ratchet extensions and such. The process I've used is for installing SFDs is to replace the rear bolts of the subframe with longer bolts (such as the trailing arm bolts) so that the subframe slides down the bolts while staying aligned with the chassis. It adds a little effort to the process since other nuts and bolts get loosened, and needing to support the subframe a bit, but otherwise, without doing it, you'd have to put some flex on the motor mounts to access those upper bolts. That's not to say it can't be done without loosening the subframe.

Good info, thanks. It gets me wondering if perhaps easing off the throttle a little once it's going is what's causing it to 'dump pressure'. Like, it builds up revs and eventually stalls, but the slightest throttle drop resets. You can see in those videos there were several moments where the trucks starts moving up and then rolls back down—that's me trying to limit the build up of revs to prevent the lunging once it's going, where I expect the truck to maintain pace and just crawl up. Unfortunately, if I don't ease off the throttle over the crest, it looks like I'm gunning it. If I ease off the throttle, it looks like the truck can't even make the climb. There's no middle ground. I think my scanner can monitor and record throttle. I may have to look into that. Throttle body and intake should still be pretty clean, just did all that maybe a year ago. Notably, my TB is "rebuilt"...I had taken it apart to clean the contacts, even though it is not intended to be serviceable. My truck has previously thrown codes related to mismatched "A/B" signals, but all that went away when I rebuilt the TB. I ran diagnostics and re-learn tests on it at the time, so I think the system is behaving correctly. Previously, the issues would cause the truck to stutter and would cancel cruise control and such...no issues like that since. In reality, this is probably just going to be something I have to learn to live with. I do have a small RMS leak, so there's also a decent possibility that I go with crawler gears if I'm going to go through all that work to pull the trans down. Given the stall speeds above, I would expect this issue to largely cease because the RPMs would be higher, but I'm not sure it really solves the problem completely.

You could've just swapped the axle shafts over and transferred any brake parts. The shaft bearings are contained in a bearing cup that removes with the axle shaft. Unless you wanted the diff and LSD, too...even then, once the axle shafts were pulled, the diff could be swapped. Anyway, glad it's resolved for you.

I don't think I've had an issue with pedal sensitivity, though. The engine revs accordingly to pedal pressure as far as I can tell, but there's just a total lack of a positive connection between engine and transmission. I'm partially accusing the DBW system of babying my throttle or some weak electrical logic, but mainly accusing the transmission of just not hooking up gradually at lower RPMs. I'm not an AT kind of person (this was my first AT vehicle actually), so for all I know this is just "normal" (and crappy). But, I think the fact that the truck largely remains stationary at idle (unless on a totally flat surface, and even then doesn't pull hard at idle) is odd. Even my Telluride wants to get moving when I take a foot off the brake. That sounds like it. Converting to DBC is basically not possible/practical. New gas pedal, all the cables, new cruise control system, all wiring and controllers. I swear the only remnant on the DBC version in ours is the throttle cable bracket on the upper plenum, and no clue why Nissan even left that in when there's nothing attached to it.

I've griped about the AT in the past, but something that's really been bugging me is the drive-by-wire + AT on my 04 when off road, particularly in 4L. The main issue I have is that the truck doesn't crawl at all...it revs and revs and revs and does nothing, and then lunges forward once there's enough revs. I completely despise it about my truck. My offroad outing the other day, and watching the video of it, straight out embarasses me because it looks amateurish, but I know I'm barely even throttling it and you can hear the engine slowly revving up in response. I keep the trans in "1" when in 4L, so it's not a product of a shift either. My question, however...is this normal for anyone else?? Keeping in mind that 03-04 R50 and I think only 03 QX4 have drive-by-wire, I suspect all the drive-by-cable AT guys don't have this problem. I have no driveability issues otherwise. The transmission is responsive all other times, including 4H (this might be hard to substantiate because when I'm in 4H, I'm usually not going slow or not needing to ease up to speed from a stop). I don't suspect issues with the torque converter. My truck doesn't even idle up my driveway, though which has a very moderate slope. By comparison, the FJ80 I've been working on for months will storm up my driveway in idle. The truck accelerates well, and I don't feel any sort of slipping at low or high speeds. Given that, is there something else to consider? I'm considering crawler gears, but not if it just means I'll have to rev higher to get the same results. Is there some way to put a low-speed lock on the TC? Should I crash it into a wall and find an 02 instead? Is there an issue with the transmission I'm not aware of?

Well, two years later and Cargo Rack v2 exists now. It's not quite done...I jammed on it all last week, late every night (seriously, I hard slept) so that it would be somewhat usable for the CANVAZ 2019 trip over the weekend. From prior posts here, the issue was clearance for the fridge, and there was just no easy way to re-work v1 to make it fit. So, I bought some more steel and got to it. Same considerations as before, but I struggled to find a similar configuration that let me keep my two crates and incorporate the fridge. The floor space in our trucks just simply isn't wide enough, in my opinion. The anchor mount positions are inconveniently and oddly located, too. I spent countless hours redesigning a setup that met my needs, only to realize there was just another issue to resolve. I think I went through about 5-6 designs in total...it was exhaustive, to say the least. ... Rewinding for a moment...I bought a fridge slide several months ago for a long road trip in our new Telluride. Here's how that project turned out, btw... I've been meaning to do a write-up, but basically, I'm using a cheap solar charge controller to regulate the charging on a 35Ah Harbor Freight sealed battery. The fridge runs off the 2nd battery when the car is off, and runs on the car's battery (while the 2nd battery charges) when the car was running. This was good enough to keep the fridge running in the car overnight. However, for part of my trip, we stayed in cities for two nights, and the lack of driving the 2nd day didn't charge the battery enough. Not that we kept perishable foods in there, so it wasn't problematic. ... Anyway, it was already planned to use that the slide and battery setup over to the truck. The fridge slide is a bit oversized for the fridge, so it's one of the reasons I struggled to get suitable dimensions on this redesign. Another issue was the anchoring to the truck. I did not want to take the same approach on v1, where the feet hang off the frame wherever. I was playing with some ideas for a rail for the rack to slide onto, but that also became a little problematic and somewhat of a waste of resources. I opted to make floor mounts that squared up the positions, so that eventually I can make another floor rack that's suited for other purposes (noting that v1 and v2 have been specifically for camping use because they incorporate a slot for a table...not something I really need for any other use). The mounts use simple 2.5"L x 1.5"W x 0.75"H plywood spacers, and then two pieces of 0.250" plate welded together. The spacers are needed to clear the carpet and such. The metal parts allow me to recess the socket bolts and to give me anchor points. I bent them up to help guide the rack in (this is where I wanted a rail of some sort to connect the front and rear mounts), but also to keep the rack from striking the hatch opening. Shown attached... For mounting the rack, I welded in some round steel tube to prevent the square tube from collapsing when bolted down. I then added in a 3/4" plywood base on the lowest level, since this anchored down my tool box. The upper shelves use 1/2". I welded in tabs to support all the shelves, and screws are used underneath to hold them in. I still need to add some expanded steel on the upper hoops behind the head rests, and better/more tie down points for the upper shelves, and complete the shelf area above the fridge space. I apparently don't have a pic of the rack filled up. But it looks like this: The slots left of the fridge are for a crate+lid, and then a dedicated spot for ratchet set. The space in front is where my toolbox is. The 2nd battery mounts to the right of the fridge. Ignore some of the wireframes in there...I used those to mimic the wheelwells and hatch opening. As you can see in the sketch, there will be another tailgate, but that's another issue in itself. Finally, one fundamental change about this design vs. v1 is that the rack slides directly in and out; it doesn't require me to turn it at an angle. That's why I was trying for the rail approach, just to make it easier to move in and out. The width at its widest is 46", and is 34" wide at the top bar. Rack height (excluding mount height) is 30". Max depth is 31" at the main level, and shortens to 24" at the upper shelves to account for the seatbacks, which can recline up to 3 notches.

I agree: bad suspension wouldn't contribute to bearing failure. Bearing replacement process for WD21 and R50 is the same. A floor press is required unless you've got hands on the Nissan service toolkit. That kit doesn't require a press and is pretty clever...provisions to remove the ABS tone ring and bearings. Otherwise, getting the tone ring off is a little tricky, as is loosening the bearing nut (the nut is recessed into the bearing cup) short of just punching it loose. In general, handling the entire axle shaft to change the bearings is a bit of a PITA. Bearings aren't too expensive; replacement seals are inexpensive. I would imagine having the work done at a shop, start-to-finish is probably on the expensive side...guessing in the $600-$1000 range. But, if you've pulled the axle shafts and provide it to a shop, probably $250 (I believe that's what I was quoted to having the same work done when planning my disc brake swap by a local shop).

No, it’s the nuts that are not supposed to be reused. Replace bolts as necessary.

Ditch the Haynes. (Slartibartfast just posted the link as I was starting this). At the very end of the EL section he mentioned, there's a Harness Layout section. The section shows a location, plus a breakdown of the shape and wire counts of the harnesses. You may have to work backwards a little from there to find your leads. Once you know what harness you're working with, you can go to the appropriate EL section to get more details about the wiring, including wire colors. You should also look at the General Information (GI) PDF. There's a "How to Read Wiring Diagrams" section that does just that, including identifying harness types and the table for deciphering color codes.

In essence, 2" of total lift is max without SFD. Preferred lift method is via springs...you can't bust CVs using only springs. The addition of spacers increases likelihood of CV binding. You can bust CVs using only spacers.

Not surprising. There's a divide between all models, and always seems that owners of one generation hate all the other generations. Not unexpected considering how different each is. Arguably the most bastardized lineage of any vehicle model out there.

Good call. I believe that is a 5V circuit, too.

Looks like you've gotten some clarification on the splined parts. The same Pathfinder ratios were in Frontiers and Xterras, with the exception of select 99-00 KC Frontiers (31-spline). 31-spline HG43 and HG46 ratios are slightly different from 33-spline versions, but the carrier prevents use in our trucks anyway unless you want to convert to 31-spline. You won't find many 4.363's in Xterras because they were only in 00-01 XE V6 models, and for 01 only in XE V6 MT models. Probably not very common. Whereabouts in AZ are you? If you can find any 33-spline LSD, I have two 4.363-geared pumpkins in my collection and could set them up for you. (Fact is, I'm already sitting on 2 re-packed LSDs, but they are reserved for my homies.) I've been meaning to hit a JY around here anyway to pull some 33-spline axle shafts to cut up to make a test tool for confirming numbers on them, which means I could also pull it apart and see if we can bump the numbers on it a little with the spare friction plates and discs I have. Just a thought. @Mr_Reverse No lunchbox locker options for us 33-spliners, unfortunately. Some time ago (and probably still to this day), the Lock Right kept showing fitment in 31- and 33-spline carriers, but we were able to debunk its use in 33-spline open diffs, mainly because the type of carrier they fit into (2-piece/4-pinion) never existed in 33-spline applications (1-piece/2-pinion). Even then, the side gear cuts between the 31- and 33-spline carriers are very different...31-spline more chiseled, 33-spline more rounded. I did do a write up on how to convert to 31-spline, and also how to use a 31-spline Patrol lunchbox locker into a 33-spline open carrier...but that's as close as we're getting to lunchbox locker in our trucks. (And at that rate, just pony up for an air or e-locker.)

That quote is probably what I'd expect a shop to charge for those items. Does that make it a good deal? No, probably not, unless you can't do the work. But, they have a business to run and that's their costs. Could you do the job yourself for less? Absolutely! Not sure of any issues getting parts from Rock Auto in CAN, but they've got a good selection and great prices. (Others will complain about RA, but I've had zero issues with things from them). USD wise, you can get every part those shops mentioned for under $200 USD. But if you can turn a wrench, jobs like this are a breeze to diagnose and repair. Like many, I'm skeptical of mechanic assessments, especially when they start suggesting things that have nothing to do with your visit, and it's accompanied by additional services and labor on top. The rest of my skepticism comes from "proof" of a condition or test. For instance, they pressure checked your steering pump; the test requires putting a pressure gauge inline to the hoses. Do you see signs of ATF or clean-up around the steering lines fittings? Did they introduce any leaks by reusing the crush washers on the lines? I mean, are you sure they checked the pressure? Did they give you any pressure numbers? Did they tell you what the pressure specs are for the pump? Without any of that proof, I'd be skeptical the test was even done, and that'd be the last time I visited that shop. What timing convention are they using to determine lifespan on tie rods? Changing outer tie rods takes 20 minutes for both, and unless they took things apart, it's unlikely they could determine if both TREs were ready for replacement. Unless they're rattling loose, or showing physical damage, they probably don't need replacement. A few simple measurements before doing the work also reduces, if not prevents, the need to do an alignment (especially if there wasn't already a need for an alignment). But, sorry for the tangent...let's talk about the issue. Steering squealing can usually be caused by worn belts. Check the belt for excessive fraying or smoothness. Check the tension on the belt between pulleys. If it feels loose, adjust the tensioner (not sure on the VG if this is integrated into the pump or a separate pulley). Replace the belts if it's time. Also check the pulleys for worn faces (where the belt contacts the pulley), but especially check the bearings. I've had a idler bearing on my power steering grenade on me before; it was preceded by squealing that got progressively worse before it gave in. Best way to check things is to pull the belt and rotate the pulleys by hand to feel for any hesitation. But also check for any play (should be none). I've dealt with a lot of squealing on my 98 Frontier in the past, and it's almost always come down to the belt being either loose or worn, with the exploding bearing exception above. The last time I dealt with odd squealing was on a buddy's 02 Pathfinder. The high pressure hose had a tiny leak by the upper hose crimp that was only really noticeable under hard/quick steering wheel motions. Inspect the hose for abnormal flexing as the pressure increases. A new hose resolved that issue.