hawairish

70 ft-lbs is just to seat the bearing fully, not the final torque spec. Snug it up, rotate the hub, loosen the nut completely (do it twice if you're not sure it's seated). I like to also give the hub a few love taps with a dead blow when it's snugged up. After it's loose, "tighten" 4.3-13.0 inch pounds (same emphasis as Slartibartfast that it's about 1 foot pound max, not 13 nor 70 foot pounds). The nut is just barely against the bearing cone, and the lock washer and screw are what prevent it from backing out. Even with a short distance, it was probably extremely harsh on the bearings. They're probably fine, but personally I'd be pulling everything back apart, degreasing them, and visually inspecting them before putting it all back together. Or, just address the tightening issue and let'r ride.

SFDs retain stock suspension, steering, and front driveline geometries. They are intended to drop the subframe and all components a static distance; since everything's on the subframe, everything should be retained for the most part. There are some subtle nuances, like potentially still needing camber bolts, having to rotate the steering rack a little, and changes in the front driveshaft angle...but nothing that impacts daily drivability. As Slart explained it, it's basically a body lift, except for a subframe.

Agreed, the 2nd part appears to be some sort of NVH damper. It's not a transmission mount, that's for sure. If you buy from Amazon, you can search for the 1st p/n and it'll return a bunch generic options. Ebay, too. Anchor 9011 for $19: https://www.ebay.com/itm/297995046269. If you have a clunk when you change gears, the problem is more likely to be your motor mounts, specifically the driver's side. If your transmission mount has sheared or shows signs of shearing, I'd be certain at least one of your motor mounts has already given up the ghost. I changed mine out a few years ago on a whim, and the 2 pieces came out in 4.

RR sliders use 2" square tube and 1.5" round tube, 3/16" thickness. Using the QX4 mounts has worked out well. My buddy took the same approach with a universal set of sliders and they turned out great.

Not limited to 00+. The trucks that had it were 2WD...but maybe some really old W/D21 4WD before 4-wheel ABS systems came into play. For sure, that setup has existed for a long time. My 98 2wd Frontier had it with the H190 axle, and now that I have an H233B in it, I used an older Hardbody diff to retain the system. Stated differently, it won't matter if the diff has it in your case. It won't get used, and you won't need to remove it. But the flange protrudes a little farther than the non-ABS version because it has more components to work it, but the bolt pattern is the same (I overlooked you said it was from a Frontier). You can't move your flange to housing because it won't clear the snout due to bolt holes that mount the sensor flange. The longer flange means you need to confirm that your driveshaft doesn't bottom out in the t-case when the rear suspension is fully compressed. Parts look like this:

The 2WD 3rd will physically fit all the same, but if the pinion flange is like how it used to be on trucks with the ABS sensor on the pinion snout, the flange will be about 3/4" longer than models with the ABS sensors at the drums. Though...I want to say some 2WDs (maybe the QX4?) had a CV-style driveshaft with a different bolt pattern. Pics would help confirm that. All R50s have 33-spline. The 31/33 split applies to Frontiers. Xterras were all 33-spline...you can use a 3rd from a 00+ Xterra or Frontier as well. Same HG46 ratio.

You'll probably know it as "high pinion" (reverse cut) and "low pinion" (standard cut), much like the reference on Dana axles. The pinion line is either above or below the centerline of the ring gear. Rotation's all the same, but the teeth on the gears are cut in opposite directions. R200A from an W/D21 or W/D22: R50 R200A: In general, high pinion is best up front, and low pinion best in the rear due to gear mesh. But fck Nissan for making the R50 the only high-pinion R200A application. The short answer is they can't be (easily) swapped because they are mounted to the truck in completely different ways. The long answer:

I recognize that X from the Nissan SAS group. Welcome back. All R50s are 33-spline...but the problem with 4.9s is that there isn't a set that fits the front axle. R50s have reverse cut gears up front in the R200A; W/D22 are standard cut. You're limited to 4.6s, and hopefully that's what you already have.

A Lokka and 4.63 gears would go great with an air intake! (I'm your guy if you're interested!)

That's a head scratcher. Locking the hubs would cause more thing to spin. Unlocking the hubs would mean things aren't spinning, which makes it pretty hard for idle parts to cause vibrations.

Now there's an old-timer name I recognize from the forums! caR50! Your truck surfaced here a few years ago with its new owner, if I recall correctly. Your old ARB front locker before your SAS got passed around, ended up in my truck pre-SAS, and is now in TowndawgR50s hand...an exchange for all his help on my project. Welcome back, man. To answer your questions: The vibration was there long before the project. Honestly, I think one of the tires just needs to be re-balanced, but it could just as easily be from the 6" of lift and the pinion angle. I get a slight driveshaft rumble when coasting and decelerating still, but it's subtle (it used to be pretty bad). I will eventually be correcting a few things back there with longer upper and lower trailing arms. I do have a tapped output shaft on the t-case, plus a Calmini SYE on hand for whenever I get around to tackling things. Toe and camber...I hope so. I pulled the drag and tie-rod off over the weekend to get a feel if maybe the ball joints were too tight...but they seem ok. I was hoping to adjust the preload on them, but that didn't go well so left it alone. No worries on any criticisms! They're accepted here, for sure, especially since I know you've done the work before. Crossmembers and other support in general was something I put a lot of thought into, and honestly, I think I need maybe one more support somewhere. One thing I considered was trying to square-up things up where the chassis rails meet the radiator support because of where the steering box was mounted...but the location of the box itself is what made it difficult. Eventually, when I do a bumper, it'll likely have an integrated skid that will reinforce the radiator mount. Though, the subframe didn't really add any support under the radiator, but it did stiffen things below the engine. That is something I would like to restore, but it'll have to be directly under the engine without interfering with the diff snout, and space is pretty limited. I'm considering two approaches, though...one that would be bolt-on using the motor mount perches. The other is one of those "in hindsight" things where I'd have to remove everything to do, but would be the best approach...I'm just not ready to take it all apart! Notably, during the design process, I really wanted to just to a simple support bar running from the upper panhard mount to the passenger rail, but there really wasn't a straightforward way to do that, so I instead opted to C-box the entire rail and put whatever I could in place to prevent any twisting from the leverage at the panhard. All said...I'm not sure how necessary all this is at this point, but I think I would like to have it eventually. I think the towers are strong enough, yes. But I have considered a strut tower brace a few times. My biggest problem is that space is such a premium on these trucks, and the passenger strut area eventually ended up being the most suitable place to mount my compressor and all my solenoids. The compressor mount already mounts using the strut tower, so I'd have to get really crafty to make it work. For now it'll have to suffice. Fck. You're right. I didn't even think about it like that...been so used to dealing with speedo sensors on my other Nissan and tire-gear corrections that I didn't even realize the disconnect here. Or hell, how I didn't realize that when I jumped to 4.63's long ago? Well, now I know. Thank you for enlightening us! So, I guess the good news is I've still accounted for performance from the engine's perspective, just not from the computer's perspective. Custom tone rings with more teeth would've done the trick then, and I would've had everything apart at one point to change them (including the rear)...but that's extremely impractical now. I guess I need to see what sort of inline module I can find or make to bump up the voltage on the signal then. OR, I could go back to stock tires!!

I'd be surprised is a manual hub is making noise, let alone causing any shudder. Those are hubs are either engaged or they're not...and to that extent, they're either working or they're broken. There's not really anything in between. Rumbles at a speed range that tend to go away outside the range I almost always attribute to rear driveshaft. Bad u-joints, specifically, but in some cases, a shift in the u-joint at the yoke causing the driveshaft have some an imbalance caused by excessive run-out. But technically, any imbalance will do it. ...of course, if you have a transmission code, that's always suspect.

Ha, I just did this the other week to pass emissions (it worked). But, a few things to know: I started with Dorman 42109. They're like a mile long and comically shiny for something you don't want to be visible, depending on where you are and how emissions are done (no concern for you since WA doesn't do emissions). However, the length is fine for the driver's side, but on the passenger side it'd be a tight fit because the sensor will be up against the transmission. I ended up not even opening the package and returned them. I used Dorman 42009, which are shorter and also a little on the shiny side. However, these need to be drilled out sufficiently to clear the sensor tip... Lastly, and perhaps the most important part: keep in mind these are sold as "spark plug de-foulers/non-foulers" and are not meant for O2 sensors. In my case, I realized that the O2 sensor on my passenger side has a tip that much larger than the sensor on my driver side. So even after drilling them out, it would not fit on the passenger side without compromising the threads of the adapter. If you go this direction and the O2 sensor tip is too big, this approach likely won't work. A 90° might be okay and clear the passenger side.

A few years ago, I briefly had a 00 Frontier with the pop-up sunroof. I think I recall that it was the same as the W/D21 and WD22 X units. I realized it also shared parts with the T-top panels from Z cars, including the twisty things, which were broken on my cover. If you do decide to keep/repair things, try Amayama for parts. They appear to have new gasket (73873-15F05) and seal (73872-01M05) available, and if the cover clip part on the glass is just glued on and is broken some other way (can't tell in the pics), I suspect 73565-03P00 might be what you're looking for. The twisty part I needed was 73556-16P00, but I don't recall what color it ended up being. Had to take a guess on your exact body code using WHYD21 (your specific body code is on your VIN plate somewhere, but should be all the same): https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/terrano/whyd21/5415-vg30e/body/H7301 But I get not wanting to keep it, especially if a rack would prevent operation. Some sort of overhead box or mount would be cool, though.

Alright, got it through emissions and re-registered! Only 8 months late... Last night I installed a non-fouler on the downstream driver's O2 sensor and it seemed to do the trick. Not only did the P0430 not move to stored to screw up my day, but it's also no longer in pending. Steering was a little more squirrelly today. I need to get to the bottom of that. But otherwise, the truck is operational. Hoping to do a shakedown run soon.