Mr_Reverse

You have a dead short to ground in your oil pressure circuit. Most likely in the sending unit. Unplug the wire from the sensor, and if the gauge drips back to zero, then the problem is the sender. If not, then you will have to check the wire for a short to ground.

The current ones on mine came in a Duralast box from AutoZone. I have gone through a few over the years. Moog seems to last about as long as the inexpensive stuff for me, so I just buy the local parts that have a lifetime warranty.

Welcome. Your Pathfinder is going to hate those wheels I am sorry to say. I had some 10's on mine for a few years, and wound up going through a couple thousand dollars in front end parts and alignments. Also had tire rub in the front even with the 32x11.50's and it got worse when I went to 33x12.50's. that was with a 3" suspension and 3" body lifts. Did look good though. You can get away with 31's and some trimming after cranking up the front a bit. I strongly recommend that you don't go too much with the suspension and go with a body lift if your goal is to run larger tires and wider wheels. I have 15x8's now and still get a bit of rub in the front at times with my 33x12.50's. For suspension lift, up to 3", your looking at aftermarket upper control arms and reindexing the torsion bars. There has been a lot of talk on that, just have to spend sometime reading old threads. You will want to upgrade the steering if you go that route. The modified centerlink and idler arm braces help a lot. Your torsion bars are probably sagging after all this time. If the front is more than an inch lower than the rear, then they definitely need to be turned up a bit. Your truck was offered new with 31x10.50 tires as an option with the same suspension as the base 235/75's. The only things Nissan did to make them fit was using 7" wheels with just under 5” of back spacing and adjusting the steering stops out a little. Hope this helps.

Not entirely sure. Is yours the 4 cyl or the 6? If it is a 4, then a Stanza one might work.

Haven't been doing the picture taking I had planned on in the process of getting my poor old 93 back to drivable on public roads condition. The last 3.5 years of sitting out in the back yard has done nothing good to my truck. So far I have replaced 3 ball joints (tomorrow gets the left lower and questionable right upper replaced along with the tierods), idler arm mount and bushings (I have the steering upgrade), replaced rear shocks with a pair of Bilsteins from a Titan pro4x. Replaced the damaged headlights with some I had found a few years ago in a salvage yard. Replaced the headlight bulbs with a set of LED bulbs and decided I didn't need to build a headlight harness after all, those lights are white and bright. Seem to have a good pattern also. Took the old Hella 500's off and put a 20" 3 row LED light bar on in their place. Cleaned out the wiring mess of the last 20 years and got most of it cleaned up and sorted out. Have a bit more to do there, but am burned out on the wiring for now. Going to take a break from that for a few days and get other stuff done. Removed the ignition lock assembly and installed a cheap push button starting system a friend gave me. It is working better than I expected, and in that process, cleaned out a lot of added wiring and the remote start security system I put in about 15 years ago that was a bit temperamental. Finally decided to take a shot at swapping the HVAC control head and stereo locations. That project was a miserable bugger that is still needing some tweaks. However, I do like having the stereo up just under the center vents much better. Did LED bulbs swapped into the map lights, after 26 years the bulbs finally died. Did a LED panel upgrade in the center dome light that is very bright. My cargo bay light has rotted to dust(so much for the idea that plastic lasts for a thousand years bs) and finally found one that is just a little bigger but will fit in its place. Have to Fab a mounting plate for it. Added 4 high current USB charging ports and a 12V outlet to the center console. Replaced the in-track vent visors that never worked right with a set of Wade low profile visors I found on Amazon for $18. Figured at that price, I couldn't loose. Things still on the short list to get done is replace the broken muffler, get it cleaned up, get the replacement foglights and turn signals in, replace the tires when I can find an extra $1k for those, replace all 10 rear suspension bushings (again, sigh). And finish the wiring. Hopefully in another couple weeks, I will get the registration renewed and be able to drive it legally again. All fun and games in my limited spare time and as I manage to squeeze out a little extra money for the repairs and upgrades. Also need to find a practical way to post what few pictures I have taken in this project. Nothing has gone simple or easy. I managed to bend the new right upper balljoint and suspect the other new one I replaced it with is starting to bend as well. Never saw one bend like this before and didn't think it was possible, but I did it somehow.

The best thing is to use a gauge to see what the actual fuel pressure is. You can try restricting the return hose to see if the engine will start. If it does with the return hose closed, then you know the fuel pressure regulator has failed. Simple way to restrict the hose is to wrap a spot with a couple layers of tape and then gently clamp with some vice grip type pliers. To check if you are getting spark, you can pull a spark plugs and out of the engine. Reconnect the wire to the plug and lay the base of the plug on a bare metal part of the engine and have someone crank the engine while you are watching the electrodes of the plug. You should see a blue spark jumping the gap. Orange is a weak one and will have trouble lighting the charge in the cylinder.

The highway patrol Chargers here in Utah are stuck with the compact spare because the trunk is too small to fit a full size even if they didn't have all the gear back there. They are not anywhere near as roomy as the Crown Vic's they replaced, and almost as big on the outside. Kinda weird seeing a column shift in a Charger too.

Found a WD21 in a local pick n pull that had a sunroof glass with an intact outer seal last Sunday. If it is still there this Sunday, I will probably grab it. I believe they charge only about $25 for it. Then when I find the sunshade that is buried somewhere in my storage unit, I can put it back in. The nuts for the sunshade unglued themselves from my glass about 5 years ago and refused to reattach. So bonus there ? Willing to keep an eye out for other odd parts if anyone likes, just make a request and I will be on the lookout.

The line from the fuel filter is the pressure line. The one next to it is the return. You will want to "T" into the line between the fuel filter and the engine to get your fuel pressure readings.

Dunno. Drove my 85 300zx with it's howling trans fo 5 years and something in the front of the engine broke. I was sick of working on that car and pouring money into it so never did figure out what let go. Towed it to the j yard and had the starter break and fall out halfway there. Friend had to do without the power brakes and steering when the engine locked up. Was a lot easier to tow when the trans was in 4th than in neutral. Gave enough drag to keep the strap tight.

I cannot remember, but I believe the tank has to be lowered to replace the fuel pump module.

Make sure that the egr valve is not sticking open, leaking, or has vac going to it at idle. Pull the vac hose off the egr and see if it will run. Hopefully it isn't a bad injector. Those are getting rare.

The gear indicator lights only work with the automatic transmission models. If you have a manual trans, those sockets ate unused.

With my 93, it is a bit battered so I may be incorrect with your 92. I know the bumper is different, but shouldn't be enough. I had my grille out a week ago and not only are the 5 clips on top, you have the 2 screws under the headlights. You will also need to take the corner marker lights off. Then you should be able to tilt the grille out and lift it out. I think the lower mounts are just pins going into brackets with plastic bushings to hold tight. For the top clips, it is gently rotate the front with a flat screwdriver until the head popps through the hole in the grille. When reinstalling, you squeeze the 2 clips together and pull it out of the body. Then gently line the square head up with the hole in the grille and press it through with light twist until it snapps into place. Then you simply press the grille back into place. Don't know if they still have them, but here in Utah, the Lowe's stores actually stocked the Nissan grill clips in the specialty hardware drawers. It is an option to try when some of them break.

My old Z's (75 280, 80 280, 85 300) all came from the factory with folding spares. It wasn't done to save money or weight, they were both much more expensive and at least twice as heavy as the road wheels and tires. It was done simply for space. The spot they found to hide them in was the right rear fender. My 280's came with an inflator can and when I actually looked at it, it was a can of R-12. My cars had inexpensive 12V inflators because they were useful and air was free, just a few min of time. Was fun to pull out the spare every 6 months or so and show the kids at the shop the cartoon tire. When done inflating, it was a simple matter to open the valve and watch the tire fold itself up again.

I am finding new rubber trim to go around the windows and sunroof glass a bit of a challenge to track down. Mine has rotted and shrunk over the last 26 years.

So many things to check. See if there is any codes, check the fuel pressure and pull the distributor cap and check for wear and damage. Might go a step beyond and remove the rotor then the dust plates and look for traces of rust or metal dust. The distributor bearings are a known problem and will cause drivability problems when they wear.

My suggestion is to toss the factory unit and do an aftermarket system. It will give more features and actually work properly. The factory unit has a well deserved reputation for being problematic. It was back in the early 2000's my single remote got run over by a pallet jack with about 2k of steel parts on it. I thought about replacing the remote but found it cheaper to replace the system that also gave me remote start and hatch glass release. Currently replacing that with a push button start system a friend gave me after he gave up in disgust trying to make it work with his Impala. The Chinese to engrish translation is worse than normal, so it a bit rocky. Combining that with 20 years of abuse, alterations, and neglect, has made it an interesting project. Just like the wild hair I got to swap the HVAC control head and the stereo locations. Being a 93, I don't have a double din for the stereo and the factory location is too low for the flip up screen to be convenient. That little project has been interesting in itself. Now I am rambling. Probably ought to take some pics and start a thread on my Pathfinder resurrection and the fun things I have found and discovered.

I love the VQ40 engine. If I had the time and money, I would be swapping one into my old Pathy.

When I replaced my VG30 with a VG33, I simply went to a j-yard and got the power steering pump, and accessory mounting brackets from an Xterra and or Frontier. Also got the belt tensioner as well. For my alternator, I believe it was a Quest, though it might have been a Villager that donated a nice one(double the power output and the correct pulley for the 3.3 belts). Due to the higher output from the minivan alternator, I did upgrade the cable between the alternator and battery. Still haven't gotten an A/C compressor yet, hasn't been a high priority item, but it will likely be from an Xterra with custom hoses made to connect it to my old 93 plumbing. A local place will build them for me cheaper than new factory parts, just have to supply them the ends and the lengths. Simple enough process. I just wish that I had thought to swap the cams from my 3.0 to the 3.3 while I had the engines out and was swapping the upper intake, exhaust manifolds, distributor, and other small things. Oh well, life goes on.

Common problem with the early VQ35. The idle air control valve will go bad and it tends to damage the drivers in the ECU when it happens. If you are lucky, you may get away with just a new IAC valve. I have had to replace a couple ECU's in the early 3.5L Pathys because the IAC drivers got fried by the failed valve. Sorry, just looked at your pictures and noticed the codes that were in there before. I believe from what I saw there, that you have corroded wires/connector at your fuel pump module. It has been a couple months since I left the Nissan dealership I was at and don't recall exactly, but I think there was TSB for problems with fuel pump module. I think you are having an intermittent failure due to temp/vibration that will cause the pump to stop running. take a close look at the IAC valve and make sure there is no damage or signs of coolant leak. If it is iffy at all, replace it before it kills the drivers in the ECU. Those are getting rare and expensive.

My 93 is my Jezebel, so that is her name. Jezzi for short.

Yep, things are finally settling out a bit for me so I am working on getting things together again. Long time no see, good to see some familiar names are still around.

Check the motor and trans mounts. also check the rear suspension bushings. I am going to bet it is the link bushings in the rear. Simple check, with trans in first(manual) or park(auto), parking brake off on hard level surface, rock a rear tire back and forth while watching the axle housing. If the yoke moves more than 1-2 inches up and down, you have worn bushings, Any side movement there is another sign of worn out bushings.

Many years ago, I broke a rear swaybar endlink while I was in Moab. Couldn't see anything wrong because while the truck was sitting still, the ball end would go back into its socket. After getting pulled over and having the nice officer explain to me that when going around corners, it is not legal to have 2 tires up in the air, I decided I had to find the problem. when I grabbed the link and pulled, it popped apart and I found the problem that time. New link and I didn't have the sway anymore. I have also had to replace the rear link bushings for wear causing odd handling issues. Have to do it again actually. My right rear shock dumped all its oil about the time I wound up parking my Pathy for a while and I have noticed it has become a bit squirrely due to that. I will also admit that my truck is in rough shape since she has been neglected for the last 4 years and I am just getting back into working on it. 3" body lift and 4" suspension lift in the rear with soft springs have made things really noticeable.