Mr_Reverse

I have replaced all my lights with leds and haven't had that problem. However, something else has killed the cruise in my truck. I am suspecting it might be the speed sensor, but haven't delved into it yet, too many other things to do. The led flasher module solved the hyper flash without having to use resistors.

Sounds like the turn signal lights are back feeding into the brake lights. I would inspect the wiring for damage or if you have a trailer light converter, it is likely that it has failed and causing the turn signal to send voltage into the brake light circuit. Had a similar problem years ago with the first set of led brake lights I had in my truck. Cruise worked fine until I turned on the lights, then it would kick out. Took me 9 months to figure it out and only did when I was in the middle of nowhere one night when it was very dark. I was behind my truck and noticed that the center brake light was glowing faintly while the park lights were on. Replaced the taillight bulbs and problem went away.

Those soft pads are to dampen noise from the intake. The parts inside the fender are just plastic tubing and don't need any maintenance or inspection.

A little over a week ago, I was wandering in the hills and managed to break my pitman arm. I have a modified steering system in my truck, an old L&P stage 3. The web between the top plate and the pitman arm broke along the top of the weld bead on the arm. Caused the steering to get a bit sloppy like a worn CL does, but had no problem getting back to the streets and home. Pulled it off last Saturday and my manager took it home and rewelded it for me(only welder I have access to is a little 110v wire feed that simply doesn't have the heat to make a good weld on more than 1/8"). Reassembled it Monday, just need to get around to realigning again. Just been hot and a little busy at work, so haven't felt a pressing need to get it done. I don't really go anywhere right now and the leaking radiator is causing the engine to run hot. Just need to get the personal forest fires put out and under control before I can do much else. I would post pictures, but I haven't got a host and haven't learned how to resize and post with my phone. Yes I am one of those old guys that can barely figure out how to even take a picture with their phone. Texting is not the easiest thing to me either ?

I have seen that problem before, and it doesn't take much to prevent pressure build. It is a slow process when just normal engine temperature is the only way to increase the pressure in the system. That is why a very small pinhole or weak spring in a cap will not allow the system to build pressure and actually cause the engine to run hotter. Also causes loss of coolant that is not visible due to it being simple evaporation of the water.

Yes, adjusting the camber/caster using shims is a PITA and even with the Hunter alignment racks that run the calculations for me I use is still a tedious process when stock and a nightmare when lifted. I would assume the same when lowered, but haven't had to deal with that on the Pathfinders.

Looks like all they adjusted was the toe. The slight changes on the camber and caster is what you will get from setting the toe. Many shops don't know how or are unwilling to adjust the camber and caster or will charge extra for those. From the numbers, I would expect a pull to the left while driving, but if you are not, take the win. With the spaces at the bump stops, that is actually where the front hight measurements are performed. If you are happy with the way it is driving and looking, I wouldn't worry too much about the space difference.

The brake reservoir is sized for the brake system. If there is no leaks, when the fluid gets down to the minimum level, the brake pads are worn down to where they should be replaced. The fluid level sensor is a simple float with a magnet inside. When the float gets close enough to the switch at the bottom of the reservoir, the magnet will close the switch, turning on the brake warning light. When there is abs and stability control systems, those lights will turn on also because the low fluid level is indicating that the brake system requires service. That said, the floats tend to turn on the lights a bit early, I suspect it is because the average driver will ignore it for a while. That has been my experience as a mechanic anyway, people tend to put things off until forced to deal with the problem. Usually it gets more expensive as well. All the 90 to 95 WD21s for North America had rear ABS. A primitive system, but it does work as long as the brake systems are functional.

Sounds to me like having the harness plug loose at the ECM might have "stretched" the female wire terminals in the connector making a poor connection. One of the tests we did at the dealership in these situations was to do a pin fit test. That required a special tool that is not common. However, you can do a visual examination and see if one or more are spread larger than the others. You are going to want to look at the 6 wires that run from the injectors to the ECU. If they are ok, then you might want to try and do a continuity test on those 6 wires between the ECU connector and injector harness connector where you did your resistance tests to see if a wire is damaged.

Stupid question, but have you considered running a 96 ecm? Would be a lot simpler than rearranging harnesses and adding or tricking sensors.

If the coolant is not leaking, and there is no pressure, then I would replace the radiator cap. I also would pressure test the system to make certain that there is no leaks. The rubber parts in automobiles really don't store well. After several years of just sitting it is common for hoses to split or crack. Also critters like mice love to chew on wires and rubber. The oil vapor that is run from the crankcase into the intake through the PCV system tends to condense everywhere in the intake system and a couple years of sitting combined wit the dust that finds its way in will become quite sticky and can cause valves in the intake system to not operate properly. People don't realize it, but just sitting and never being run is really hard on automobiles.

Always just groan and mentally slap my forehead when I see or hear "cold air intake". Seriously, how can anyone possibly think that the air in the engine bay is cold? The factory airbox is more of a cold air intake since it is pulling air from the fender rather than the engine bay. It also does a much better job of filtering air and preventing water from getting into the intake. That all means that the MAF is better protected. The stock airbox is not restrictive at all for the stock and near stock engine. Probably the most restrictive parts are the MAF, throttle body, and valves in the heads. I put a K&N drop-in filter into my 93 20 years ago and have had no issues. I do have my intake tube tear once after the body lift and I did have to replace the filter once when I submerged the front of my truck in a mudhole and the mud clogged the filter. Saved the MAF and engine thought trashed the filter element. A true snorkel would be a true cool air intake, but my truck would quit running if the water ever got up over my fenders anyway. ECU's do not like getting flooded and I am not going to go through the hassle of moving mine from its place under the passenger seat. It was bad enough swapping the HVAC control head and stereo locations. Wish my 93 had a double din opening like the 94 on has.

I don't have oil issues on mine anymore since I managed to get the oil pressure sender to stop leaking. I wound up installing a VG33 when I broke the original engine many years ago. So I now have the tiny filter at the left front instead of over the starter.

No regrets honestly for giving up the clutch fan myself. I have seen them break as well. For me, the e-fans are worth a bit of hassle once every decade or so for making access to the front of the engine easier and the quicker cooling when the engine is shut down. The suspension lift on the other hand, really doesn't give me enough off road performance to make up for the aggravation of the constant fiddling to try and keep the alignment somewhere acceptable and the poor street manners. However, going back to stock will be even more work and expense, so it stays. The pair of 14" fans I got on Amazon for about $38 seem to be working. Installed them yesterday and then stress tested them by doing a run up into the mountains. Rough road, long slow climb and warm day let me see they will be fine. The radiator on the other hand, is in bad shape, so need to come up with an upgrade there. Found that the radiator and the steering gear are rubbing at the lower tank seam and has almost worn through. Lots of fin damage on the core, and a suspect area where a tube is looking a bit sketchy. Plenty of other little issues to deal with though. Still need to find the money to replace the tires. For me, 13 years is pushing it for tires, even if they were a great tire when I bought them. 2 of the 5 are worn out, but the rubber really doesn't like all the UV that the high desert has.

Check the brake pedal arm where the brake light switch contacts. There should be a little plastic/rubber pad where the switch contacts. If it is not there and you see a hole in the bracket, the switch pad has broken and fallen out. New ones are available at your local dealership for not too much.

On Sunday, when heading up into the hills to do some shooting with my daughter, had my fans give up on me. Saw the temp at hot and couldn't hear the fans with the engine off(have the controller set to run on temp even with the engine off), so opened the hood to see what was going on and found the relay was gone out of the controller. Thought that's odd, had a spare that I put in and the fans tried to jump out of the engine bay. Pulled the relay and took a look at the fans and found both were missing a blade and chunks out of the rest. Guess 20 years was about the limit for the Maxima fans I installed. Stuck the relay back in and let the paint shakers tear themselves apart to get back home. New fans arrived today, so have that fun project to do when I find a few hours to pull the radiator to get the broken fan assembly off and build the replacement. Hard to get motivated on all the work I have to do on my truck. After 9 hours a day of working on other people's cars, working on mine just isn't very interesting to me anymore.

Probably your ignition switch giving out. When I removed mine to install the push button ignition system I found mine was actually trying to come apart. The contact plate and housing had a lot of movement between them. I think that might have been the reason I was having starter issues years ago that had me come up with my "starter relay fix" I had posted so many years ago on the AC forum we used to hang out on. Did you ever do the relay mod?

To do it properly, you will need the cams and new lifters. A bit involved, but since you have to take the timing belt off, it is a good time to replace the timing belt,(along with seals, water pump, hoses, tensioner, woodruff keys in the crank, valve cover gaskets). Not a major project, but it does take some time and the various bits and pieces do add up.

You can try cutting down the threads on the end of the bolt and then cut a notch length wise in the bolt like a self tapping screw and try running it in. The threads are probably damaged a bit in the bracket and the notch might allow the bolt to clean them up. Otherwise best bet would be to pull the mount bracket and either run a tap through the hole or replace the bracket. I just went out and looked at mine to refresh my memory on how it all is and decided that was something else my 3" body lift makes easier. Also noticed that the mount I replaced along with the engine back in 03ish is looking like it is cracking at the top. Something else to deal with one of these days...

WD21 and D21's have a body on frame construction. The R50 is a unibody. The inner fenders of the older trucks could be cut out without causing too much structural issues. Not so much with the R50. The TT part of the VG30EDTT is for twin turbos. Those attach to the manifolds right in the narrowest part of the engine bay and where the steering shaft goes. Not saying it is impossible, just that it will be very difficult and really won't be too much of an "upgrade" over a VQ35. Then again, I am more interested in in torque than hp with my truck. The VG33 I have in my 93 allows me to keep up with traffic. The tires and suspension keep me from wanting to go over 80. That and I am old, so not generally in a big hurry anymore. I am the old guy camping out in the right lane that oddly still seems to get to his destination at his planned time.

Thanks for the update. Glad you got it worked out.

With the Y pipe to manifolds, made sure the studs were installed fully into manifolds and then undid the exhaust hangers on the rest of the system. Then used more colorful words and a prybar to force things together. I leave the nuts loose until I get both sides on, then tighten the pipe to manifold nuts. Then reattach the hangers.

I don't recall exactly with the R50, but my WD21 has the hard lines on the right side of the trans and engine. I simply put my T in where the rubber hose is between the hard lines and the cooler. Since my trans temp gauge is an autometer electric one, I did have to run a ground wire to the T, as well as the sensor wire.

Yep. Over the shoulder into the spare parts box.

You will have to do some serious modifications to the front of your truck to make that engine fit. The twin cam heads are much bigger and makes the engine very wide. Then you have to figure out how to fit turbos and it gets much harder. The VQ35 is a better choice if looking to upgrade in a semi reasonable way. Still not a simple swap, but Nissan did find a way to shoehorn that engine into the R50 chassis.