Nissanland

Yes mine has the power mirrors with heat, power/economy, fog lites, tachometer to, lsd included, all the extra speakers. Factory alarm/disabled though !! Hahaha, tilt wheel, BUT no rear window wing, but yes defoger.

Xe my vote, I have all the electronic gadgets needed, locks,windows, and the what not's. I have a factory roof rack, rear tire carrier, wheel well flares, and a factory tow package, no need to worry about the interior to much, though I would like to have the leather seats. Air is cold and heat hot. No need for sunroof to start leaking on me when seals shrink. There's no different automatic transmission/engine/suspension package from xe to the se. So I guess why pay more for an se when the cheaper xe 4x4 performance is same as the more expensive se model. Just MY opinion though....this from the guy who has a fully loaded 04 Titan LE. 4x4 with tow package and the upgrades for the off road package...

The fork tool, tie rod removal tool was $9.25 at AutoZone and works like a charm. Money well spent.

One's thing is for sure, I would not be driving the truck any where, no way NO how. Very unsafe to do so. Cross member is part of the axle support, if its laying on the coil springs then your risking the axle coming out from under truck and wrecking. I would get it welded with some good steel, you can make templates for the frame from card board, looks like you will need to create front,bottom, and back templates for a complete repair from the look of those photos. I've have read IIRC that those frame bits are on the thin side. Error on the side of caution.

They just have a more solid hookup. The auto hubs were definitely tired, you could feel them engage and disengage. I don't go stump climbing, just have a good one in yard to use for testing upgrades on.

I changed the brakes last weekend and found out alot about thes trucks, the previous owner hadn't been the most diligent person when it came to maintenance. Luckily the drums and rotors were within specs and didn't need to get turned down or replaced. In back the shoes were worn really even and equal on both sides. On front though was a different story, 1st off the easiest set of pads you'll ever replace. Remove 1 bolt and pull the caliper up and back, slide out old pads, slide new pads, press the two pistons back into the caliper, fold over replace bolt and walla, done unless you need to bleed the brakes as I did, I had a plunger pop on back brake. I was surprised to see that 3 of the front pads were cracked in multiple area's, all I could see for brand name was shucks, which has been sold off years ago. I installed pads and shoes from DBS/EBC. The shoes have V grove running length wise to help run cooler and the pads are groved twice instead of once. Supposed to be able to stay cooler and apply more pressure without brake fade. If you haven't looked at your brakes I would take the time to look, the rotors not vented causing a higher level of heat, thus making the pads more easily cracked. I would also suggest using pads designed for cooler operation. Safer than solid pads that don't release heat.

One of the easiest upgrades I've been able to do on this project. I did both hubs in under a half hour. Remove the bolts and slide off the auto hubs, remove the c clip and B brake, then slide the new mile marker hub body on. Reinstalled the c clip, lined up cover, and bolted down. Finished up with a wipe of the grease and prints. After I put them on, I took them out to test, they locked right up, smooth as silk, and then climbed up a stump with out any effort, the same one I couldn't get up without a lot of wheel spinning and slippage with the stock auto hubs. In my personal opinion, and for the money a great investment. Hopefully I can get a bit more miles to the gallon. On the plus side they also look a heck of alot better than those stock hubs did and goes better with the new rims.

On mine the sway bar has new bushings and end links, I have checked those today actually just incase they were loose, the only thing I haven't checked/replaced are the tension rod bushings, but I did say I wasn't sure...

Got in and replaced all the brakes front and rear. In front 3 of 4 pads were cracked, in back just were getting a bit thin for me, now for the fun bleeding them back to firm and adjust the e/brake. I also installed the mile marker hubs that was just sitting around collecting dust, wow those are the easiest thing I've ever installed on my pathfinder, still need to align her though. Went out in the back acres and tested the hubs out, and wow what a difference something so simple made. Oh yeah I sanded the rear frame down and primered, and repainted it back to black, sanded down the brakes drums and primed,painted them Rancho red.

No I haven't yet had the time to pin point it, been told it's somewhat normal for these IFS and that it comes from the tension rod ends??? I can't say for sure though.

I love it! I want one I want one....

Btw Colorado, you don't need any special tools to get the torsion bar out or to adjust them. Suspend your front end so tires are the off ground and support truck frame with stands for safety. Remove the adjustment bolt, the dust boot, and c clip from frame end. All you need is a 3/4 wrench and socket, plus a couple screw drivers to pop the c clip out. Then loosen up the three bolts up front, one 3/4 and two 1/2 nuts. You can now remove torsion bar. You don't need to loosen up front if re-indexing the bar. Hope that helps you out. Make sure to lube every thing before you put back together will make it easier to take out and adjust if needed..

I used the same Rancho shocks you ordered, after I finished the lift last night, I hit a very badly potted road up here, the road is so bad that my 04 titan is uncomfortable to ride. But other than the IFS popping noise the pathfinder rode down the road very good, more comfortable and control than I thought it would have beings the truck is lighter and still needs the alignment done. So in my opinion the Rancho shocks work great.

All IFS have that popping sound at one point or another, it's very normal noise to hear, especially when hitting the pot holes. I just finished installation of the lift kit and when I tested it out, I got the popping noise, it's from the tension rods and frame IIRC. it is a tension point, hence the name.

Finally got the torsion bars in...yeah, now for the alignment...

You Can Do It! LOL all's good..

Yea that's it...what ahardbody said...

Well if you wanted to install there's a bunch of good information in here for installation of springs, just use the same information to install the spacers. That said the shocks look good, I see you have a limited slip rear also. That's always a good thing...

Okay on the spacers end of things, you won't need spring compressor, all you need to do is lift your rear with a jack and put on stands. Remove the lower shock mounts, disconnect the sway bar the brake line bolted up above axle, lower and let the axle hang loose. The springs will almost fall out. Slide your spacers on top and reverse the process, unless the spacers are not the type designed to be placed on top that is. If so disregard the aforementioned information. LOL On the bracing end, all I can hope is you will be in future. As a trucker we have a saying, there's no load that's worth more than our lives. Here, there's no project that's worth not being safe. Either in the garage or out wheeling. We all want to have fun and enjoy what the sport has to offer all of us. Like I said not the preachy kind, just safety first...

Travisg, these guy's know what to tell you. Precise1 has always given me solid information to work with. Be sure to soak up the front bolts really well with pb blaster or something like it, the 4 bolts to upj can break off pretty easily if been there a while. I had 7/8 break off, but planned on replacing my ball joints anyway. Good luck on your project and have fun.

P.s. I hope you had your truck supported by some measure other than the fork lift. Not to get preachy but I think we need to error on side of safety here and help educate those that just don't know how easy things can go wrong when we're under the truck. I think some kind of frame braces should always be used when jacking up the truck, unless on a full truck lift. I personally don't want to read in here of someone getting hurt because the truck fell off jack and on the person underneath. I have a buddy that is paralyzed from the chest down from the very thing happening. I just don't see any chocks or jackstands in the above photos. I apologize if you did use, we all have been there using what's available to us, no bad feelings. Just safety...

Just a thought/question? Did you put the coil spacers in or on top of coils, you might have just put them in place incorrectly? The spooky action you might have been feeling could of been due to the coils binding from the spacers being in the coils and not on top adding the lift you had hoped for. Like I said, just a thought...

What he said. Plus you will want to crank up the torsion bars a bit to get it back up and level. Shocks in the rear will need to be longer length, iirc there is a write-up in here for both the shocks and torsion bars. I used the full kit from 4x4parts and used the Rancho shocks, but you can get same kit with Bilstien shocks instead. I also added a steering stabilizer, but that is more a choice rather than a need.

Apx ten years ago, a two wheel drive pathfinder, it had broad front steerable ski's and a Trac drive on the rear, was amazing to watch it blow up the snow drifts with such easy effort. Sorry I didn't have a camera that day up in the snow. Elbe off-road area