Nissanland

Has anyone ever done or seen a uni ball joint type link system to the center link? I was talking about it with a yota driver. He said it offers more deflection/angle and is stronger than tie rods, and easier to tune in your alignment. Just curious, I have only seen those on straight axle trucks.

Also would like to know the difference between moog, mevotech, and beck arnley. They are almost always listed together and have similar prices. Auto parts warehouse list FEQ $50 for inner/,outer & sleeve. And $100 for a no name center link. Rock auto list moog center link for $77 but tie rods and sleeve for $65 per side. Just curious to know what's a good price range and rip off point. I'm not paying AutoZone $153 for the c/l and $86 per side for tie rods and sleeve. Thanks again

I don't know much about these compared to other brands, I have been trying to pull up the grass roots c/l without any luck. I need to get new rods and link. I don't rock crawl, or anything crazy, this is a dd/trail rig only. I don't want to spend an arm/leg for the parts, but I do want to get quality parts. I had the truck inspected by a good shop, and was told that the parts were all factory installed, so 235k isn't so bad when you think in those terms. LOL. I have read the few write ups but seems like a one side opinion though, and I think y'all have been giving me good insight all along. I'm just wanting a good safe truck that my wife and daughter's can drive w/o wandering around as they go down the road. Thanks in advance for your help...

It should only come on with your signal, not with head lights. Sounds like you have a short crossing over to the head light switch. I would back track the wires and compare it to the good side.

Well I didn't get the work done I was planning on, the dentist called and got me in for work I was waiting to get done. And yes I'm numb as can be...

I had the same issue just yesterday, the problem was the outside portion that held the bulb. I had to squeeze it in a bit to make sure I was getting a good contact on both the sides and bottom. The turn signal works great now.

Yesterday I did the dreaded tune up and oil change. The spark plugs are to be set .31/35 and the one's that came out, not one was under.75 all the way to .82 I'm surprised that the truck ran as smoothly as it did. The rotor and cap both had alot of burning showing, the plugs wires were in horrible shape, 3/6 were separated from the contacts and just arcing across to the plugs, again surprised it ran as good as it did, and number six plug is the biggest PITA you could ask for, no wonder it was the worst wire and plug. The oil change was eventless, the oil came out black as death, there was a bit of gritty oil,but not to bad. The filter came out easy once I found a wrench small enough to get it out, used the fram high mileage 10,000 mile filter, it puts a time released additive to oil as it filters, I will be changing it out in 3/4k though. I used castrol 5w30 synthetic blend in the high mileage mix. The filter that came off was a no name bargain brand, no wonder the oil was so crappy. Fixed the broken turn signal, it was full of mud and shorted the light out, sealed it good and now its so clean that I have to clean the other side to match. Oh well, I swear I'm going to get this truck running right. Today the fuel filter/ wipers and strut rod bushings

junk yard if your lucky...I'm finding though it's most likely that it will need to be a custom built job. I have heard that some Toyota and Jeep bumpers will fit with modification's also the hardbody ARB bumper with dome mod's. I just happen to be in same situation, so I've been looking into the options.

I hear it both in/out, any time you shake it or move and stop, fuel gauge works fine. I think I may have located the sound though. The rear anti sway bar ends have major slop and knock/clunk when ever you bounce it. I'm not sure if the sound would keep going though when truck is sitting still like it does, the sound is like something floating around in there, everything works though, just weird.

I hear that!!! I don't have the winch mounted yet, im thinking about having a front hitch made for me, then I could use hitch mount and use it on either end. I'm also building a off road/bug out kit to keep with truck at all times.

not jacking thread, just same subject matter. What would sound like a float banging around in fuel tank, get it with the tank full or less than full. I'm just curious if it's a normal noise. This truck has always made this noise.

It's worth it if you don't want her to help you dig out of the muck. LOL unless you want to go mud wrestling..LOL

I bought this truck off the daughter for myself to have a project that I have always wanted to do. Most of the parts have come from 4x4parts You can see most of the changes in my members rides. 95 xe. We're lucky enough to have the Titan paid off, so I can afford to get quality stuff and take time. Truth is I'm jealous of you guy's that have their pathfinders out getting dirty on the trails, being an over the road truck driver, I don't get a lot of time.

The dumb answer is....when you need it most it won't work...LOL

Harbor freight sells the hi lift jack very affordable.love mine. Watch the sale ad's and get the 12k winch for $150/$250. I got lucky and got the winch, plate and wireless remote all for under $200. I'm just cheap that way.

Sounds like a trickster grimlin to me.....

Had similar problems last week, ran fresh wire's from stereo to all the speakers and bye passed the stock set-up. Sounds like the installer used amp for front speakers if they cut off when you pull the fuse. If you paid for the installation at stereo shop, I would be getting owners involved, and if it's the owners who has the issue, then your state attorney general office. If you paid for proper installation then by all means you should get it.

Here's some pictures of how mine turned out along with the Rancho steering stabilizer....

I've got the Duratrac's on both my Titan and Pathfinder, and can tell you that you won't regret it. I've recommended them to anyone who has a truck of any kind. To date NOT one person has come back with a complaint about them.

HAVE you tried the wrecking yards for a good set of cables. Should be able to find them in good enough shape since it's not a highly sought after item. Just a thought and price should not be all that bad either. Good luck with your project.

Along with all the advice above, you can get a cable come along and good straps to keep in your truck to help you get out of stuck situations. I have used a come along to get a full size Ford pu unstuck with a simple 5k model, double the line up for 10k line pull. Till you can get a winch it's a lot cheaper and lighter to lift/carry. Harbor freight list them from $15/50. I think you would like the results when your alone and stuck.

Ahardbody my dashboard looks just like your dashboard and my temperature gauge sits just about the same to,

X2 get the Rancho's. Great shocks no second guessing.

Bled the brakes and rewired the whole pathfinder stereo system/speakers. Nothing was working, P.O. was a fool and destroyed all the wiring, needless to say. It's all good now....tomorrow hopefully get time to do oil change and tune up.

IIRC that is correct, I never had to replace any washers, just slid the hub on, replacing the c clip and attach the top cover. I coated all the paper seals with grease lightly to help with water/moisture resistance as directed. Don't use to much though, just enough through out assembly to coat everything not packing the grease on.