SpecialWarr
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Posts posted by SpecialWarr
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The computer does have a learning and memory function that is timed to the number of start-run cycles. It may be that but I would think that it's more likely some parameters in the computer that caused a reaction to the new good signal from the MAF. Same reason why it was running like crap before!
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I was going to install some new windshield squirters and a power window switch but realized that I had forgotten both at home. So I cleaned the inside of the truck after a muddy weekend last weekend. ... sort of.
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So here are some of the photo of the aftermath
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I spent the weekend at Augusta, Ontario getting right dirty at the motorsport park. One of the fine gentlemen that I work with got a call from a friend who told us about a mud pit, 4x4, atv, dirt bike and monster truck party that was going to be this weekend. So we booked down there Friday night and rolled in about midnight and spent the weekend getting ridiculously dirty. There were no other Pathfinders, 1 X-terra, 5 4Runners, and Toyota Hilux turbo diesel... two of the 4Runners (on 35" tires) and myself ended up in the mud pit. All three of us were stuck up to the axles! My weak - ass welds let most of the hitch come off but the fine gentlemen in the monster truck actually spun the wheels trying to pull me out.... there was a Helofalot of laughter. Pictures to come!
Weekend in mud pit:
1 alternator
1 horn
2 times stuck up to the axles
5 modified trucks pulled out with a stock Pathfinder
18 beers consumed
1 Ford Explorer redlined until detonated in the mud pit.
All good times had by all in attendance! !!!!
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I would take a look at the fusible links at the battery. If you have no power to anything that is the place to start. Squeeze the colored links and feel for a hot or very soft one. They are the 50 amp fuses so you could check for continuity if you take them off of the battery side and probe the ends of the connections. 0 is good on the ohms.... infinity is bad!
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The new stereo is awesome.... but now my one power window that worked....... ........ doesn't. Oh where have I gone wrong! too many wires too many questions, too many broken bolts.
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I finished my first stereo system installation. .... in any vehicle. ... ever. New wire to the door speakers and new antenna. One would think that after owning 7 vehicles I would have done one by now. And I am now at beers and getting ready to watch the 24 hrs of Nurburgring!
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I re-re-painted my rear bumper.... after "encouraging" an asshat behind me to backup a few feet. After he cut 3 people off and ran into the back of the Pathfinder. .. twice. I thought I would help him into the other lane.
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I can't measure the passenger side since it's not intact... and I didn't order one because it looked good from the outside of the housing.
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Mine measures out to 1140mm (45inches) for the drivers' side from the cable end to the beginning of the hooking block (the block itself is 3mm thick and 45mm long).
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I have one floating around in my box with my radio that I can go and measure.... just a second.
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Thirty minutes of looking and I can't find anything on google.
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Did you take a look at the fusible links on the positive battery terminal and check them with a voltmeter? There is a possibility that one is overheated and melted....not that I did that to mine... a few years ago... by accident.
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+1 on the above posts... the autos are the ones that tend to be guilty of the click/no start. I swapped my ignition assembly for a new one just to remove one other pain in my butt, I now have two keys a la old school GM / Ford.... one for the ignition and one for the locks!
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I would be tugging on the main ground wire off of the battery for starters and then work my way to smaller wires. That sounds like no electrical circuit but if you can get us more detailed info we might be in a position to point you to a more specific location!
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An .080" gap is big enough to check with the side of a 9/16" wrench!!!
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I just bought a kit for mine online.... I don't recall it having any details about dimensions... just that it fit 87-95 Pathfinders. Grant, the sexyest steering wheels in da biznesssss!!!
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I gapped mine before I put mine in ( lesson learned decades ago with my first car ). I gapped mine to about 36 thou. after I checked their gap. Of the 6 that I bought new the gap was everything from .0315" to .0395. I know that Bosch _claim_ that they spark and resistance test every plug to fit into a specific set of "performance parameters" but I'm calling bull@!*% on that. They may test one of every two hundred or so but I doubt they test every single one.
The gap is specific to the spark plug, close the gap and less energy is needed to bridge it ( to get a spark. ) The pathfinder has a serious coil on it so you can run a wider gap if you like. .062 is a bit much in my opinion. I wouldn't hesitate to run the gap at .0450" though. I suspect your hesitation _may_ be due to the smaller gap and not enough time to get a complete burn of all of the fuel in the cylinder but there could be a hundred more reasons having nothing to do with what's going on in the cylinder for that to happen!
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I actually ran mine out of fuel a couple of years ago.... I also forgot that I didn't have my spare 10 liters in the back. I was on my way to the gas station and in fact about 60 feet from the entrance when the truck actually ran out of fuel and died.... BUT all of the Pathfinders in North America came with a 21 gallon tank unless someone changed it. The 15 gallon one was just for the 4 cylinder d21 and I don't think I've ever seen one of those in the last year or so.
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The exhaust studs that you want to replace (all of them really) should be replaced with those from a z31 (ZX300) of the same era... the heads will have to be drilled out and threaded for the 10mm bolts and is work but well worth the effort.
Ask about oil changes in the transmission, not the engine. Has any work been done to the trans? The factory did NOT put enough oil into the trans when they were building them so the bearings and gears get starved for oil in 4th and 5th.... if there is the least amount of noise in the tranny or difficulty getting the gear to engage, that's the end-of-life for that trans. Take $750-$1000 off the price for a rebuilt trans.
Bring a 10mm closed end wrench and pull the positive wire off of the battery and ground it (no you won't damage anything); put it back on, tighten it down and THEN get in and start the engine. If anything has been fiddled with this will re-set the capacitors and learned trouble-codes in the ECU, the TCU and oxygen sensor feedback. Take a few seconds and play with all of the knobs and buttons in the truck before taking off on the test drive. Do NOT turn the truck off before you've taken it for a test drive, you want all the trouble codes to be set before you turn it off. Make sure that you get it into top gear on the highway, feel for shaking and shimmy which are going to be symptoms of bad suspension bushings in the rear, tie-rods in the front, both or ball joints or all of the above. Back in the day this was the _best_ handling truck in it's class. if the front end is in good shape it should feel tight and light at the wheel with good feedback and sharp turn-in. Anything short of that is suspension work.
That's about all I can give you, 'cause that's all I know!
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Some of them were equipped with a dealer-installed alarm system and would have been bought with one but I don't think any were equipped with a fob from the factory 27 years ago!
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I wouldn't worry too much about an alignment shop or general shop that isn't confident in their repair quality... Find a reputable body shop, they either have access to or know an automotive welder nearby; that's the person you want to see about a frame repair.
As far as your hesitation goes: There is obviously something not good going on, but I would look at the trans oil level and take a smell of the trans fluid... it may have a blocked cooler ( warmer?) in the bottom of the radiator or low fluid level. If it smells burnt or like toast then it may be a good time for a flush.... but for $500 how much money do you want to put in it? I bought mine 4 years ago for $350 and spent $5000 in parts and tires only... my truck runs great and is as reliable as my Estwing hammer.
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Slartibartfast
Thanks for the point location on that one... I seem to be missing that page in my paper FSM... which I must have left at the cottage along with a few other pages out of the back of it...
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Reviving this one from the dead: I can't find anything in the FSM about this override switch, so my question is: is it supposed to be normally open, normally grounded, or grounded closed or what ? Annnyone have an idea?
What did you do to your Pathfinder today?
in The Garage
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I'm thinking hard about what to do _with_ the Pathfinder now that the frame is broken... again.... for the third time. I don't have a garage, shop or parking spot and the family doesn't want to look at it on the lawn at the cottage. Michèle, my wife, thinks I should drive either the $1000 CR-V or the 7 year old Chevrolet instead of buying a 2007 XTERRA.
Ideas? Suggestions? I would like to keep the Pathfinder but there is so much wrong that I can't even mustard the energy to start fixing everything.
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