SpecialWarr
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Posts posted by SpecialWarr
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Wasn't there a guy who posted on here in late 2014 with this same problem? I recall it was his VSS wiring that was at the root cause, maybe I'm confusing a couple of posts though.
I guess the first thing to check is that the rotor is tight and keyed to the shaft, after that I would check that the hold-down bolt is snug with some play in both directions. After that there is a procedure to set the base timing from the download-able FSM. After that I can't help ya!
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I've heard of a bad coolant temp sensor making the engine stall out once it warms up, and then start fine again when it's cooled down. I would expect that to take more than a minute or so to cool down before it'll restart though. You might check the temp sensor and its connector if you run out of other ideas. It's the one with two wires on the coolant neck that goes to the top tank on the radiator.
Mine had a broken connector and I'd had an odd problem like this, I just bought a new one and swapped it in ten minutes, touched up the slide pins inside the connector and it hasn't moved in 2 years.
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Yessir! It's the same engine and parts from 1990 through to 1995. Although I believe that there is a VSS and a different speedometer from 1993- up which was not available / replaced by something else on the 1990-1992. That is all I know of that is different.
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It's discs at all four wheels... the problem is that I had new pins and bolts installed 2 years ago and I looked at them yesterday. All nice and smooth. So yep, it looks like it's going to be the (eeewwwww) CR-V.
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Welllll it looks like it almost time to pull up and take the Pathy off the road for a while. I have some serious rust issues that need to be taken acre of ASAP. I have also noticed just this week that I have an unpleasant rubbing (unlike certain kinds of pleasant rubbing!) happening in the back axle area. Whatever is unhappy does appear to be cooking brake pads so I suspect that it's a wheel bearing, my only hope is that it is the E-brake pads that have popped a spring. So do I keep driving it for the rest of the week and take a look at it over the weekend or should I take the (eewww) CR-V?
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I've been lurking on some local jeep forums (!!!!!) to get my info around Montreal / Hawkesbury / Mt Tremblant area.... there must be a jeep club somewhere nearby jacksonville!
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Depending on the condition of the pump, it could be a quiet whirring sound with the rear seats up and stuff in the back. It gets quite noticeable with the seats all the way down with the carpet pulled up and the cover off. Grab the key, lock the driver's side seatbelt and turn the ignition to ON (second detent) and you should hear only the pump run for two seconds or so. Obviously have the radio off before you start this very precise procedure, since it can never be replicated! LOL!
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You could go and check to see if the strip of plastic on the middle support is still there. If it is, the rack has an adjustment to increase the tension on the rack at that location, but 5523Pathfinder is correct.... it needs a rebuild.
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Yep, that clover, my guardian angels and the 3 lives that I have left over are all on duty full time! Thanks again, you guys know I really have no electrical skills at all so without my support network (haha!) I would be lost.... AAnnd I still owe adamzan a call!
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Thanks for the help guys... I really appreciate the gurus that help out!! You guys rock!
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And a $35 analog multi-meter solves the problem..... the digital one is is need of maintenance. Digital reads 8.9v.... analog 12.6 on the terminals, 14.7-ish running and 13.7 with high beams, lights, every switch and light on with the wipers running..... problem? crappy tire digital multi-meter!! Saved by Rona Hardware store analog meter!
Although I'm sure the ground that I made for the alternator case was helpful... somehow. Now to clean up the inside of the truck and the living room.
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I always test both on the top of the battery terminals and off of the clamps before I do anything electrical. I had a full charge into the battery before I installed it this morning, installed a new ground wire for the alternator after, started it up, backed it up a couple of parking spots and checked voltage at the battery terminals... 8.90v.... checked the alt case to the positive terminal.... 10.23v while running. I just pulled the terminals off and check voltage my meter reads 1.483v... then I switch the range and it reads 8.92.... are you thinking what I'm thinking?
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As you may have read elsewhere, my starter died a couple of weeks ago, so I had it replaced at a garage. When I got it back it drove around fine until the beginning of this week when it appeared that the battery was dying. I replaced it with a new one under warranty at Canadian Tire on Monday and have been driving it around since then with only one strange issue: I have had the meter in the dash reading 13.6 - 13.8 volts since Monday. The rebuilt alternator that I bought 18 months ago didn't look bad and definitely had power going to it (sparked pulling off the power wire... oops... grounded that wrench for a second!). Which brings me to the question at hand: since the starter, alternator and battery are all new.... how is it that I have only 9.8 volts between the terminals on the battery after 4 days of driving around? any things I should have looked at and didn't, broken grounds didn't really make themselves apparent since there were only 4 cables to undo and reattach and they all appeared good. Oh masters of the electrical diagnostics bestow upon me an answer please!! I pay beer!
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http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-column-assy-ste~48805-88g64.html
Nothing says how many splines anywhere I can find, but if it fits everything from a 1987 D21 to a 1995 WD21 then I would say go for it if it isn't too expensive. I could pull my Grant wheel off and count them if you are really not sure.
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Both starters are remanufactured AC Delco. I've been looking around and I haven't seen anything other than the remanufactured ones online. BUT if perhaps someone knows someone else who may have a NOS new one I am willing to drop $700 on it right now if my average is going to be 2 years per starter.
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Well. A remanufactured starter is worth about 2 years of daily driving. I'm just going to b*tch about spending $400 ..... twice. I am headed back up to the cottage where it died last weekend. I dropped it off at a garage across the street from a friend's house Monday night and he lent me his car.... until the truck was ready. And DAMN those boys at the garage are slow.And that was me b*tching.
Now: does anyone has a NOS OEM starter they want to sell me for next time?
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I'll take it off your hands for $500.... delivered!I guess all add one more to my fleet. This poor unappreciated guy was the cheapest thing to sell at the auction today. $350 and he came home with me. Did fine on the 50 mile drive back, running 80 down the interstate. Not a spot of rust on the frame/undercarriage. 148,000 miles. Only needs a power steering pump & a little TLC.
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Not being a master transmission tech I can't tell you when its going to go. But the signs are that it needs attention right now.
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There is your pack, located under the transmission; oil, and filter will have to be removed to get to them. You may have a large can of worms to open though. If you've lost 2 gears that usually indicates serious trouble / lack of maintenance which may cost you more than you want.
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We've bumming rides from the rest of the family but are headed to the airport to rent a car. No one else seems to want to do the Hana road day-trip or the Haleakala Crater.
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A dark green square dash and a champagne '94 or '95
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There are at least 2 WD21 nissans here in Kihei on Maui. I know this since I saw y'all out surfing! Any members or am I just barking up an empty tree?
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Woe es me.... frame fab and rear wheel bearings
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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adamzan you do NOT want to see the frame rust.... it is almost frightening!
I'll tell ya what though, I'll take before, during and after pictures of the fit-up and weld-up while I'm doing the frame repair at the cottage... this summer. Would anyone like dimensions and angles ( I assume that I'll not be the only person doing this in the future)??
My current plan is to do C.A.D (cardboard aided drawing) for each section from about the rear of the front door area to the rear bumper on the inside and top of the frame (since that is where most of the hard stuff to measure is) and remove most of the serious rust and pretty much all of the bottom section that I haven't yet removed. That's plan A. It's going to be most of my weekends (rainy and cold ones too) from April until I'm done; given sufficient cash to buy 4.5" x 0.125" in 8 foot (ish) sections for both sides and 2.5" x 0.125" in the same length for the top and bottom sections. I should go with the cold rolled 1018 like I did with last years' temporary repair ( in case anyone was wondering). I will have to get a plasma cutter though, there is going to be a whole lot of that.... maybe I can get a beer sponsor while I'm at it!