SpecialWarr
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Posts posted by SpecialWarr
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Some of you will know that I was not particularly impressed with the POs chopping off of the radio harness, using random lengths of home speaker wire. He also decided that 3" of electrical tape and 2 twists were sufficient to re-attach the daytime light module here in the northeast. Not a his most brilliant moment.
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The scraping noise might be a sticky slide pin for the brake calipers. They aren't difficult to remove but mine were a bit of a challenge because of the rust. Don't use grease to lube the pins since it will contaminate the rubber seals and cause them to break down with the heat cycles. Use brake caliper lube only, it's made for it and will save you from having to replace the pads, rotors, pin seals and doing the same job twice! Ask me how I know.
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I'm with
Cuong Nguyenon that one.... and in case you were wondering: an engine harness for $250 CAD is a great deal of peace of mind / dollar. But you need a warm weekend to get it done.
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LOL... and there is a lot of that when a person is under the hood looking at all that stuff!
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1 headlight, no High beam ( changed bulb, same symptoms)
That sounds like 2 different problems: 1) a bad ground and 2) possible switch that's overheated / carbonized. Links to either of these I do not know but I'm be willing to bet my last $21.42 that the ground wires are corroded or broken. (One of the major problems with the Pathy are the cheap grounds.... coulda and shoulda gone with better but they didn't.) I went with cable eye-rings under the body bolts that hold the fender on, crimped and sealed, painted over and RTV'ed over that. Looks frankenstein but works great.
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This is what it should look like from the front of the truck:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CswWM8F85nM
And I just realized that this post does not address the question.... but it does show the position of the rotor! Sorry about that!
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some air bubbles in the coolant
Yep, I guess I should have thought of that as well seeing as I do much of the flush and refill at work.... suspension though!
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I would suggest you remove and clean the blower motor housing around the fan, it comes off with a couple of screws. There is a how-to ( I think) in the Garage header section. The power fluctuation might be trees leaves and stuff slowing the motor or the resistors starting to overheat. Either way, clean that thing out and take a look around for other issues!
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It could be a fuel pump on it's way out but you should be able to hear the pump kick in when you hit the ON part of the ignition cycle before you start it. The timing on the distributor might be off just enough to be a pain, you may want to check that the distributor is clocked and locked down ( 15-17 degrees of advance at idle, I believe) And that's all I got!
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Dirty intake or Idle Air Control Valve would be my first two guesses, A can of intake cleaner and 20 minutes can take care of both of those! Watch out for the coolant line on the bottom of the throttle body if you decide that you want to clean that as well. Other than that I would think that maybe the distributor cap may be off a few degrees... try turning it while the engine is running and see if that clears things up!
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I have to vote for Pav and a close second for Stovanovitch!
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True, sorry about that adamzan. Since there is no snow I assume that we can still go wheeling after Christmas! North of Hawkesbury? I have a dinner on the 28th though!
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LOL, I was actually thinking about taking a summertime trip from Maine up into Nova Scotia. I wanted to take the car ferry over and bring my Pathy along for the trip but I heard that the ferry is no longer running up there. Bummer. Thinking about a trip to Montreal next summer though !
Drop me an Pav a line if you make it, we can call adamzan and drag you into the woods for a bit of wheeling!!
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I would have to say that it may be a broken shaft or pulley but then the car must sound like crap in either case and have no power.
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I spent another weekend welding some CR1018 to the area around the wheel wells and replaced a 5" piece of vacuum hose from the FPR to the back of the intake.
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All I have to offer is a panhard rod bushing, but I base that on no evidence at all!
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The stock shocks can handle that much more travel as the stock springs drop right into place even with the shocks still attached. You may find the end of the travel a bit harsh but after the 2" lift that I installed there was enough place for at least another inch of spring. The anti-sway bars are an on-road performance handling thing; they just make sure that the body on the left side is attached to the suspension on the right side and vice versa. The shocks will be fine!
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Australian!
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I spent the weeeekend with a chop saw, 120" of 2 1/2"x .125", a 120" of 2"x .125" , a bench grinder, my Lincoln MIG 140, an angle grinder and nothing but trouble with the trucks' back end. Day-yam there is no place to get a MIG gun next to a frame rail. I will not post pictures because I am ashamed of the quality of my welds. They are not attractive.
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the strawberry milkshake of death
hahaha yep... that's bad, if it looks like liquid strawberry juice then you should be good if the trans oil level is correct.
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The best fix is to run new speaker wires from the new head unit, bypass the rear factory amp and go straight to the speakers. Boom! 4 ( or more speakers) good to go!
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That's the intake boot, it's black rubber and held on with 2 big steel hose clamps. The IACV and air regulator are to the top of the photo, to the left of where "E.G.R control valve" is written
They are bolted together:
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I would go with epoxy since we use it often here in the shop but I have a welder and it's the only thing that will work around here at these temperatures. Besides we are coming up to the holiday season and I hope to be able to get some time to getter done!Now I know what your pathy look like! Great looking truck for an 1990, my 1995 safari green use to be like yours, black front fender lol
just for info, my dad buy a brand new 1990 path in 1990, in 2001 the truck got complete paint job, new rear quarter where welded in place... ect... so yours with 25 years is not that bad! LOL
If you look for a cheap and efficient method of patching hole and if you don't care too much the look, patch it with sheet metal and glue it with fast curing urethane 2K from napa (not the epoxy one who take 1 million years to react)
You can go either speed ( i think 3 or 4 curing speed is available) I chose the 1-3 min working time who is the second fastest, so you got 1-3 min after the mix to apply the urethane and apply pressure. 1 hour total adhesion time... the faster one give you 30-60 sec. of working time, who is great sometimes.. but can be a bitch on humid day... when the NCO in the urethane react with water like hell and you got 30 sec. or less of working time!! LOL
Pm me if you want pic or more info!
On my 1995 sapphire blue:
-Begging to remove body rust with the buffer (with a cutter disc). I have no mercy, corrosion have to go!
- front seat are removed, the leather stitch are broken so I will repair them
-complete Inspection of the floor
-Begging to clean the hole in the driver floor, rust is bad in that spot
-Ditch the driver side front carped in the trash, completely wet, just too disgusting to save that, I will take one from part truck
-Complete sanitation of the truck, i bought the truck but I didn't drive it very much, needed work before putting a lot of km in it
- WORKING FACTORY CD!!! Yeah I'm so in heaven right now! lol, got speaker working too! It was the Upper unit that was faulty not the cd unit
-Interior door panel dismantled and cleaned to hell lol
- Repair the latch of the tire carrier.. and few other thing!
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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?
in The Garage
Posted
Thought about him all alone at the shop and decided that I needed a few hours of tapatalk surfing.... particularly since I have seen 2 wd21s here in Kihei, Hawaii. One parked near illiili road and the other at the 76 station.
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