SpecialWarr
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Posts posted by SpecialWarr
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You may want to reconsider your approach to the front end treatment. I wholly advocate for Steve's spacers in the back, soooooper easy install. I tried the t-bar crank and re-index as it was suggested on here, I did not like the results. If you go with the t-bar crank be prepared for a more harsh and bouncy ride in the front. What you will have done is turn up the pre-load on the springs in the front without changing anything other than it's height in the back. It makes the truck too hoppity in the front, but that is just my opinion, using it as a daily driver and hardly off-roaded. I had to dial mine back just to be able to drive it around the city and I am now looking at installing UCAs from 4x4 parts to get the truck back from soooper raked out!.... seriously... it looks ridiculous.... like one of these: / .... welll. maybe not that bad.. but I'm going to change the UCAs just to be happy with the ride anyway.
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Conversely: we could meet up somewhere around Oklahoma and I'll swap you my rear axle w/discs and LSD for your rear axle w/drums and LSD!
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I have not tried that method yet but I will when another of my exhaust studs break! I _could_ weld a nut onto the remains of the stud but that sounds like work.... Why do that when you can let chemistry do the work for you?!!
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Got one here in Montreal... 2 door XE... I, alas, do not own it.
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I've had some good luck with WaterWeld but that kinda thing is out of the league of anything but full Red Green or a new base... JB Weld ain't gonna cut it this time!
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Hahah... I figured.. but I thought I would be an excellent use of my time at work to write an example!!
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Maybe, I did the passenger side but I haven't been able to free the pins on the drivers side which sucks. We'll see if that set is okay.
I figure that ya just have to find a rock small enough to drive onto and big enough to get a drifting rod and a decent swing with a hammer from the bottom of the hinge..... no?
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I simply disabled mine since I'm the only person who is in my truck 999999 times out of 1000000..... I suppose that it's an electrical ground issue since that is a very common ( sic! ) fault with the electrical systems on the truck but I have yet to look into it. The weather is deep winter here in Canada so ya don't go out to look around for electrical faults at -10 C. It's too damn cold for that!
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The easiest way is to weld a nut to them. Turned right out after.
I don't know if I'm that coordinated. To be able to hold a nut tight onto the head with a pair of pliers, wedge a MIG gun in there and be able to see what you're doing demands, I think, a bit more than I am capable of!!
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I have just been shown the way of gods to remove a broken stud.... I subscribe to this guy, good for laughs:
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Are you sure on this bit? Looks contradictory.
Let's use it in an example!
1 N-m = 8.85 IN-lbs
10 IN-lbs = 1.13 N-m
16 Newton-meters is what in inch pounds? 16 x 8.85in-lbs = 141 in-lbs according to my torque wrench...math says 141.6
Working backwards from 140 inch-pounds? 140 inch-pounds x 0.113 Newton-meters = 15.82 Newton-Meters
OR 142 inch-pounds x 0.112985 Newton- meters (for exactness) = 16.04 Newton- meters....
Which works out to slightly snugger than hand-choked-up-all-the-way-to-the-socket-with-three-fingers-pulling force!
Or just hit the google!
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Mine was held in place with some stainless steel clamps with a #2 Phillips, I kept the clamps and replaced the hose with a piece of high pressure fuel line ( total cost of $0.89 ) because I was already in there and replacing a stuck injector anyway..
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Aaaaannnnnnnnnddddddd..... what was the issue??
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And for the mathematically proficient:
1 FT-lbs = 12 IN-lbs
1 FT-lbs = 1.35 N-m
1 N-m = 8.85 IN-lbs
10 IN-lbs = 1.13 N-m
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I believe that the 1993 _is_ the first year of the factory dash CEL.. but if you take off the dash, you'll see that there is a spot for a light.... I have one on my 1990.
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Get an angle grinder! You can get them for like 20 dollars on sale at crappy tire or princess auto. Do they have princess auto in quebecixco?
Bought one from Canadian Tire three summers ago and put mayyyybeeee an hour on the motor since then. Pulled it out and the motor windings separated themselves from the contacts at the base of the motor within 30 seconds of lighting it up. Since I was in the middle of needing it, I just left it in the basement and kept going with the damn wire wheel. I knew that I didn't have enough time to drive for an hour to get another one. All of the other ones are $150 at the local Home Hardware, Rona and Marcil.... I don't have that kinda money so wire wheel it was going to be!
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I spent most of Saturday guesstimating, cutting out, and preping steel bits for a long overdue frame repair. Passenger side just in front of the rear wheel, over the trailing arm bracket (inside and outside) and the bottom section from the bracket forwards to the crossmember and a small reinforcement for the body mount. In total, 6 separate pieces of cold rolled 1018, cut, trimmed, fitted, deburred, sanded, cleaned, tacked in place and welded on after 2 hours of rust removal with a cordless drill and a wire wheel ( that was all that I had other than a 4" square piece of sand paper).... Two days later and I am still sore from all of that.... didn't take a single photo either.
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I put clean oil on the top surface of the seal area, spin it on until it makes initial contact with the cleaned block ( yes, I wipe it down with my last clean rag) tighten it with just my fingers and then snug it another 1/2 turn with my wrist.... which works out to tight-enough-to remove-with-difficulty when you change it..... unless you're using Mobil1 filters.... in which case 1 full turn after initial contact, no more than that.
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Pulled into the local Canadian Tire because I have a leak at the brake line.... which I discovered on the highway in traffic.... and left it there for repairs. I do _not_ work on cars below 5 degrees Celsius unless I have to
Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk
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Amazon says that it will NOT fit a 2WD but I can't think of a reason why not since there is more stuff to work around on a 4WD.
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The only other choice I can see is to artificially hold open the valves to remove the pressure buildup which is mostly just a pain, difficult, time-consuming and probably damage causing.... it's just way easier to brake the seal on the plugs! That being said: I understand that stripping out a plug hole is not cool and would prefer to fight the 200psi. One additional thing: make sure that IF you choose to leave the plugs that you use a ratchet to turn the crank. I know one guy who used a breaker bar and then got the end of that in the head by accident... it hurt.... a lot.
To answer the question though: The number of lines on the pulley vary by year so the first line may be -5 or 0 or +5 degrees; there is no way to know _if_the correct and original pulley is one the motor BUT the timing is 12-18 degrees after top dead center. which could be the third, second or fourth line!
I haven't done one on the Pathfinder BUT I would use the timing marks on the crank, in conjunction with the direction of the rotor AND an 8" vernier in the #1 spark plug hole. The question would remain that : is it the TDC on the compression stoke or not? The only way to know that is to rotate the crank BUT if _all_ of the plugs are in, you are going to be fighting 200psi every 60 degrees of rotation EXCEPT the #1. Not easy to work around or fun.
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+1 on that....
You may want to also charge / swap the battery for a new one but remove, wire-brush and add grounds to everything in the engine bay before you go with the battery. The WD21 is weak in that area. Before you get too far add a ground strap to the MAF (centre wire?? someone want to check me on that! ) and run that to a location on the inner fender near the MAF; the original runs all the way to the ECU under the passenger seat and is prone to cracking with age. The fix from Nissan is a wire assembly with connectors that don't exist in the 1990. Makes a hell of a difference.
Last on my list is a gasket kit ( complete upper ) would be excellent since you'll most likely need to clean out the throttle body, upper intake, that infernal air thingy (with the light blue electrical connector) that gets clogged.
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The 235/75 is just over 29.5" tall and raises the rpm on my Pathfinder to ~2500 at 100km/hr, the 31" (which I have) keep the rpm at ~2250 but are clearly heavy tires that you feel is a heavy tire compared to the 235/75.... The 215 is a 28" emergency spare size only and I would not buy that and run it as a daily tire at all four corners. The 265/70 is 32" tall tire and is heavier than the 31" but might rub a bit at full steering lock unless you have wheel spacers or deeper offset rims (from a Toyota? or something). The 255 I'm not sure but I suspect that it's a 31.5" tire.
Stock tires on the XE were the 235/75R15 OR 31x10.5R15 as an upgrade ( I think)
The SE came with 31" tires as stock as far as I know but can easily take the smaller tires.
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Ok guys- what most likely went wrong today with my truck? Started it and it ran as typical for maybe 30 seconds. After it died, it would not even turnover, no starter click, nothing. Power is fine, lights work, dash lights, etc. I have had starter turning over for extended periods at times in this process and thinking it's been hard on the starter, but wondering if there would be a relay, or fuse that would likely burn out first. Checked the battery ground and 2 strap ground cables. The ignition switch was replaced awhile back when it locked up so thinking its not a likely culprit. Anybody have time saving advice for this issue?
There is a relay next to the battery or in front of the windshield washer tank (can't recall which one goes where) that may be at fault. I tap on mine with a screwdriver although that requires a second person trying to start the truck _while_ you do that. I would be on those before I took a 3 hour run at that damn starter. JMHO!!
Planning WD21 Drum to Disc Conversion
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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Ummm.... I can't think of a good reason other than I've never owned anything with drums before?