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Posts posted by SpecialWarr

  1. That’s a phenomenal explanation from Diode Dynamics! That really is incredible customer service. I’m amazed someone took the time & care to write all that out. I feel good about having purchased their LEDs.
    Yea DD has a lot of good stuff! I'm going to plug my phone in and slide over to my laptop to do some more reading this afternoon.

    Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

  2. That's probably the linkage behind the transmission on the left side. There is a ball and spring arrangement that "indexes" inside the transfer case that never seems to get serviced. I would give a shot of some spray grease or other lube on the linkage joints, that should be a big help.

    • Like 1
  3. That lower control arm was a gnarly thing to get off on mine, but then no one had done it before. I should have just broken all of the bolts off to begin with, that would have saved me at least 2 hours of sweating and swearing! Water under the bridge at this point. But that's living in the rust belt for you.

  4. From Diode Dynamics:

    Since automotive power is 12V, and LEDs generally run best on 2-4V, depending on color, you must use resistors or other components to drop the voltage to a level the LED can work with. This is why you cannot simply plug a basic LED directly into your socket, or connect it to a 12V battery. The manufacturer will determine what the nominal (normal) voltage is to run a specific LED, known as the "forward voltage." For example, a blue LED might be rated as 3.0-3.2V. Adjusting the _voltage_ lower or higher will change the brightness, but only because it also changes the _current_; higher voltage means the current will increase in an LED.

    After ensuring that you have the correct voltage available to the LED, the next step is determining current. This is measured in amperes, or amps, but since it's such a small amount of current, LEDs will be rated in milliamps (mA). The more current, the brighter the LED, but there is always a maximum "running" or "constant" current, which is the max you should run the LED at, and usually there is a max "peak" current, which is the highest current the LED can withstand before completely failing.



    That being said I would suggest that you have either 1) an increase in resistance within the circuit board (likely, considering the possible water intrusion , location and age of the brake light) or 2) a weak grounding point. We know that the voltage is good, so that leaves only either 1) increased resistance (from corrosion, vibration, bad wire, bad ground?) or 2) a reduction in supplied power (cracked wires, poor contact surfaces). Not that this is much help to you but without seeing the board in detail there is a lot that I can't rule out!




    • Like 2
  5. Yes.... mine was still attached to the truck when mine came off. I tweaked the rear hanger a bit to get some clearance but ended up bolting a new chopped up piece to the original one and drilling two holes in the arm to get it to stay in place. I don't recall welding the two arms together but I may have do so later.

    • Like 1
  6. a8fc5b8e711b4834282c27fa59c852de.png


    I'm guessing that what you needs is #4 in the drawing? I'm not sure really... but this assembly, from 




    Might be what you need.... it's just that they sell this for $178 USD.... plus shipping. I would suggest an auto recycler but these are rare around here in eastern North America.

  7. Since the build is a 4-bar linkage, there are a lot of bushings that need to be replaced out back. I suspect that the lower links need both sets of bushings replaced (since no one seems to do those) and maybe the upper links as well. Really the only way to know what is at fault is to either replace everything with a bushing in it or take it to a mechanic and have them do it. Do NOT overlook the possibility of the frame being rotten though... rust through is a real problem with the Pathfinders (areas of concern are from the wheel wells to the bumper on both sides). If you can feel the back moving I suspect that either the DeDion tube (under the frame just over the rear axle) is rotted out and letting the frame sway a bit on impact or the frame itself is rusted to death.


    NOT to scare you, but you'll want to take a look at that ASAP and get it fixed. I "reinforced" my frame with some 1/8" cold-rolled steel plate (2" wide) from the front of the wheel wells to the bumper, on all four sides of the frame, both left and right sides of the truck.... not that that was _legal_ here but it was that or go back to walking.

  8. I would think that you'll get the top 12 gallons  of fuel and then have the fuel light on.... clearly you have the 21 gallon tank though. I would think a tweak to the rod would be the easiest thing to do. Close is close enough! That rod is stainless steel (IIRC) and should take to bending once or twice without trouble.

  9. On 12/1/2018 at 5:14 AM, Slartibartfast said:

    I've heard of oil leaking from valve cover gaskets dripping down the back and looking like it's the rear main. Probably worth doing anyway if you haven't yet.

    Mine was doing that for a while then I snugged down the screws for the valve cover.... no more "RMS" leak... which was really a leaking valve cover gasket seal between the two banks at the back next to the firewall... WaaaAAAAaaaayyyyy cheap fix!!

    • Like 1
  10. adamzan is the lucky one... my lines had already been off twice before I bought the truck and put back on with sheetmetal screws in a different place every time. But that's what you get when you buy a running project for $750 CAD. I was just thinking that you could maybe bend the steel rod that holds the float to get it down closer to the original height of the float.. but since you've already got 'er in there... nevermind!

  11. On 11/28/2018 at 12:00 AM, Manik said:

    Ya ain't from 'round here, LOL! Cornbread is a staple south of the mason Dixon line so the way to Louisiana and through Texas! Rednecks gotta have our beans and cornbread.

    Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk


    Well alright then! My culinary curiosity is now piqued.... I imagine that it tastes like corn?! What's the texture like? Other than bread-like, is it crumbly like a dry cake, or soft and pliable like WonderBread?

  12. That is true, my apologies for being all gung-ho to get you out and back in the Pathfinder... I had forgotten that Nissan went to the e-speedo in late 1992 ( early '93??). I ... I jjust wanted to feel the love of being in the cool kids group again  :( .... I miss my Pathfinder.

    • Thanks 1
  13. Had this issue a few years ago on my 1990. The cable has a plastic post and a receiver on the back of the cluster and engaged by a small spring (half the size of the one in an automatic pen) that fits between the cable and the post. The top of the receiver for the post is where mine cracked and at the corner where the post meets the body of the receiver at its base. In theory it could be repaired with crazy glue if it's clean, but mine was covered in moly lube and I couldn't get it out of the crack in the receiver so I went with increased spring tension and lived without the trip meters. Continually using the trip meters will crack the body more (something about the angular force of the reset buttons on the plastic). It's really a mechanical problem and not an electrical. I suggest an hour of remove. repair and re-install because it isn't likely to be difficult!  Super short #2 phillips and a triple extra long #2 phillips will be your friends! After that its just plastic clips and electrical connectors.

  14. I suspect that the brass bushing in the arm is toast! I think you might be able to just throw on a stock new one from one of our fine vendors and be good to go. If you off-road a lot I would get the AC brace, but mine has taken a beating and is still good without the brace (at least... as far as I can tell!!) I would tell you to get the Beck/ Arnely because it seems that it is the only one with a grease port. None of the others seem to have one!




    • Like 1
  15. The other way not mentioned by  hawairish is to go shopping around for an LSD equipped wd21 and swap the whole axle assembly. Admittedly, that's a lot of wrenching but parts should be very inexpensive, it will depend on what kind of space arrangements you have / can make and what kind of wrenching skillz you got but it's an option.


    The manual locking hubs swap is quite easy and can be done trailside, in your parking space or on the street. You'll need to get a set of snap-ring pliers if you don't already have them, a 6mm hex key (L shape, because you can't get the socket version onto the nuts.) to unbolt the hub bodies and a pair of magnets to get the "brakes" that engage the autolocking hubs off. Remove the covers (with a 3mm hex(?) I think, remove the snap ring off of the axle end, remove the "brakes", then unbolt the  hub bodies. Replacement is going to depend on which ones you get.... but those should have instructions!!


    I did mine in my parking space without the snap-ring pliers (which is why it took me over and hour)


    Bring clean rags and some wheel bearing grease!!

  16. 14 hours ago, adamzan said:


    He actually has made the fuel map. I know a member who has it in his 91. I drove it when I was out west. It's certainly faster than my stock one, but it is no race car. For some reason he blocked me on Facebook though I'm an admin of the group so can still see his posts...



    I thought he was working on it, I hadn't realized that it was done and running! Faster than stock is progress but I would never expect it to be "speedy".... it's a truck after all. 

    • Like 1
  17. Replacing the injectors will only get you clean injectors. it won't really "help" with emissions as that is controlled by the ECU getting signals from the O2 sensor, IACV , EGR and the MAF and adjusting fuel supply and timing in relation to what the parameters in the fuel map state is "correct". Best thing is to run new plugs, new wires, new cap, new rotor, new battery and everything with a perfect ground to bare metal; paying special attention to the MAF sensor wiring's additional ground. BARE metal is what you want. Now it'll pass smog, THEN you can throw down for new injectors! 


    As far as modding the ECU, there was a guy on the west coast in BC who was suggesting that he was going to write up a different fuel map for the Path but that ended with an open ended thread and no more updates in the last three years. So unless you want to spring for a Jim Wolf ECU ( go for it!) there isn't much to be done to the ECU and little information exists here for any mods. You'll need to track down a tuning shop that works with Nissans... I suggest that Haltech in Austalia is a good place to start, they at least have Nissans that they work with on a regular basis.

    • Like 2
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