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Posts posted by SpecialWarr

  1. Other than seeing the three others that are in occasional use around Montreal (including Pav's green one) I have yet to see another anywhere in Quebec/ Ottawa region. Making my WD21 just about the only daily driver. X-terras are a dime a dozen as seen in every kind of condition imaginable, pristine 2001 to beat 2006.... They just don't have the "cachet" of a WD21 yet.

  2. There may be a problem with the pressure sensor or its wiring, a yank on the steering wheel should get the rpms to jump up to 1100 when the motor is still cold. At least, _mine_ jumps up to 1100 rpm when it's cold while getting out of a parking spot as I head off to work!


    The switch is bloody expensive at $92 from RockAuto though... so you may want to spend an hour or two looking at wiring before you go and throw parts at it!

  3. I don't really see how it's possible that _only_ #5 & 6 get cleaned by using the vacuum hose that goes to the brake booster.... it's an intake hose... it leads to the intake manifold and as such is not exclusive to one or two cylinders. It may clean those two a bit _more_ but unless there is something else going on inside the manifold all cylinders are fed air by it collectively.

  4. I think you'll find that the pathfinder, whether 2wd or 4x4, will get about the same distance out of a tank of fuel. The rwd may have 150 lbs less running gear but that doesn't make much of a difference once it is up to speed, the motor is still a guzzlin at 12-15 mpg...

  5. The computer ( from what I have read) is a learning computer but the drive cycle is set at 50 cycles initial and an additional 50 cycles to have a complete parameter guide. It should learn some settings within the first 10-15 drives and get "acquainted" with your driving in a 2-3 weeks period. after that it appears that it will re-learn some settings after the battery has been out for an hour or more..... this is just what I have noted over the last 4 years and $5000 of parts and installation of things!


    Low idle? 500 ish might be in need of a MAF cleaning / throttle body cleaning / a good rip onto the highway at full throttle to clear things up. MAybe an adjustment if those don't work.

  6. I have been playing with the parts finders on the internet and I see that the lower shaft / stub shaft for the steering column is not widely available, in fact, as far as I can tell my 2 options are an internet thrashing for the thing from a discount dealer online, or a local dealer. Knowing what I know about the exchange rate at this time ( 30% increase per dollar) it looks like I would be out $255 Canukistan dollars for the lower shaft UNLESS someone knows where or how I can get myself a tiny yoke looking thingy with splines on it for less. I would like to simply replace the u-joint....but it looks like that's not possible since I can't see any bolts, clips, wire rings or anything else that might let me pull it apart. Does anyone have one they would like to get rid of for the low low price of I'll-buy-you-a-beverage-or-a-dozen when we meet plus shipping?


    For a visual reference: ST-12 or so for the tilt type power steering lower shaft, ST-20 ish or ST-30 ish in the FSM; lower joint to 'stub shaft' (same part).



    I know what you're thinking: IT's the Idler Arm.... it's the centerlink! Nope.... checked on those this afternoon with my very capable assistant / wife Michele. Since I've just replaced the upper ball joints last week and both tie-rod assemblies also last week it can't be those either. The slop can be felt in the u-joint and it's kinda bothersome to drive around it. In fact, it's okay most of the time in the city but the truck spends 55% of its time on the highway and that makes it a problem that requires a resolution. Can you help a brother out or am I off to sell my other kidney??

  7. God I love this forum.....I'll be headed out to make some tie-rods adjustments tomorrow morning if it decides to stop raining! Settle the truck back down after a dual tie-rod assembly install with upper ball joints on the side.

  8. I have to agree with PathyAndTheJets... my first thought was the exhaust hitting something during warm-up. My exhaust wasn't welded perfectly ( my bad, I did the welding) and taps lightly on the fuel tank bash plate at times but with a broken exhaust hanger being replaced with a bolt that's not a surprise. I suspect a good look under the truck while it's running with all 4 wheels chocked and the e-brake on you should be able to find it; it is loud so you will want a set of ear plugs to filter out the noise and hone in on the problem area. I suspect that the exhaust is a tap-tap-tapping it's way through somewhere.

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  9. Also, I might suspect cleaning out or bypassing the in-radiator ATF cooler may help (per previous posts about cold temp issues), making sure that the same tires, same oil, same plugs, same wires and a good MAF cleaning might make enough of a difference collectively. Gapping the plugs all the same (to 0.001") and confirming that you don't have an injector stuck open will also help. The only other thing might be a dieing oxygen sensor but that's all I can think of that would actually affect fuel mileage. New plugs and wires?? New cap and rotor?? I'm just throwing those out there since you didn't mention changing them recently.

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