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Posts posted by SpecialWarr

  1. On 11/13/2022 at 5:06 PM, Frenchy said:

    Unfortunate to hear they quit making them. I was starting to get a little excited.does my 93 need them? Dont believe so but it wouldnt hurt since im planning a nice OffRoad build!!

    Being in Colorado you might but it was a real problem up here in Canada / the Rust Belt. IT's pretty dry over that way that far inside the country so I would think that you should be alright. Either way you can always have someone weld up a set of plates to the outside after some rust removal ( as needed) whereas we can't do that here in Quebec ( welcome to the "california regulations" of the north). IF you feel that you _must know_ grab a flatblade screwdriver and start stabbing away at the frame under the truck.... if the blade penetrates then you need them... if it bounces off, your good to go.

  2. That seems like a low fuel pressure to me; I was thinking that the correct pressure was 43 at idle and 50+ above 2400 rpm.... someone correct me if I'm wrong!  That it idles fine but then runs like crap would maybe be a plugged filter in the engine bay? At least that's where I would start because those filters are cheap, eazay to get to and you only need a star screwdriver to get them off.

  3. On 7/2/2022 at 11:07 PM, adamzan said:

    Door arm rest. Would also be interested in some other stuff depending on condition lol.

    The rest is pretty bad after sitting in the woods for the last 6 years. No interior other than seats, no center console, no tires, no diff at this point. Windshield is cracked and the door and window seals are all toast. The two front panels are still there and intact, The hood has been hit with a small tree though so that's got a dent and none of the carpet / hood foamy-carpet-fire-resistant stuff in intact.

  4. On 6/19/2022 at 11:12 PM, adamzan said:

    If I could get a new armrest for mine I would 100% lay out the cash for it. It bothers me to no end lol. Trying to keep mine as mint as possible.

    You need a center arm-rest or the door arm-rest @adamzan? I need the diff out of the Pathy for the X and the rest of the car is going to be scrapped very soon afterwards due to town bylaws and whatnot..... anyone need any relays, harness bits or whatever that big fuse thingy off of the battery is called?

  5. Thanks for the heads up and info. The WD21 is definitely an LSD ( tested on jack stands while adding a lift kit from Steve Fleury) so there shouldn't be a problem there, 11 stud vs. 9 stud is an interesting new development though....


    My regular mechanic is not a Nissan guy per se so there are a few things that he has trouble with ( he/ they mostly work on Ford/ Chev/ Dodge/ Honda) the alignment for instance but he is across the street from where I work so the convenience factor is powerful!


    As for me, I've never pulled off a diff, so I am completely in the dark about who's which goes where other than there are bolts and brake lines that need to come off to be able to pull the diffs out!!       Again, thanks for the info and I'll drop a line again as soon as I can get the diff out of the WD21 and into the hands of the transmission specialist and I'll let you all know how everything went.

  6. @hawairish Thanks for the writeup boss! Great info for those of us who are noobs to the whole diff rebuilding world.


    Not to hijack your thread or anything( he said, totalllly hijacking the thread), but I figured that since I am in need of a diff for my '01 Xterra (WD22) with the H233 (4.63 gears right now) and I still have my WD21 from 1990 also with the H233 and running 4.63 I would ask anyway!


    The problem is is that the diff in the X growls on the gas at any speed over 80km/hr and I hate that because it makes me nervous. Question 1: can I swap out the side gears from the WD22 to the assembly from the WD21? keeping the axle shafts, seals and side gears from the WD22?? OR am I crazy for thinking that that's possible???

    The problem with the X is that the pinion bearing has been so badly abused by the previous owner that it has 2-3mm of vertical play at the front flange and just started to leak oil last week..... the semi-local diff and transmission guy has basically told me that parts are not available this year, are difficult to find when they are available and are in limited quantities if they are even findable so I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place. What I do have is a fully functional WD21 sitting in the woods that I own ( but got pulled off the road for safety reasons due to rust issues).


    IF I can actually pull both rear differentials; Question 2:  what else _should_ be done to get the WD22 back up and running while we are in there??

  7. Vampire bat? They tend to consume power... you might want to try a fruit bat next time! 


    Seriously though: I would think that a plug has come undone since full power comes direct to switch at the column and most of the time only one circuit cuts out ( as the fine gentlemen above noted)  except for that one guy who lost both high and low beams at the same time.... guy from Saskatoon?

  8. It should since most of the difference is forward of the trans output shaft. It might be a bit of an issue if you also want to swap from a manual to an autobox because of the trans computer, but otherwise I see no real problems with another trans of the same model ( different vehicle, year, spec is okay... as long as it has the RE401 in the same configuration).

  9. Personally I would suggest a definitive diagnostic and confirmation that it IS the fuel pump and not a bad wire in the loom that snakes around next to he exhaust / bash guard for the tank / tank mounting bolt hangers. You may want to get yourself a $7 test light from the auto parts store before you drop $$$ on a part you don't actually need. The test light is a very handy tool if you can figure out a wiring diagram power / control and ground. You can figure out _where_ the problem is instead of firing the "new parts cannon" at the vehicle. My test light _would have_ saved me from replacing the battery, the starter and alternator and getting a tow.... but I trusted a digital voltmeter instead. My mistake. 


    In short.... it _might_ be the pump. But you should _know_ that it IS the pump before you open that can of worms on an old truck like ours.

    • Like 1
  10. The only coolant passage that I recall in the intake tract is to heat the throttle body and that's with the two 3/16" hoses under it, after that I only recall heater core lines at the back of the engine on the passenger side; if they were leaking you would have smoke in the engine bay. The large quantity of smoke out of the exhaust could be either accumulated water from sitting which will take a goodly while to burn off OR, as you said, the water jacket surrounding cyl #1. It could be a head gasket but there are folks who a getting 700 hp from the stock internals and heads so I have to think that it an unlikely cause.


    AS far as the fuel out of the exhaust: did you check to see if the liquid evaporated quickly or lit on fire? I would suspect the flexible fuel lines might be at issue if you didn't replace them when you were doing the intake.... you didn't mention anything about them so I'm just throwing that out there. That's where my fuel leak was anyway! I would suspect that a stuck open injector would not smell in the cabin... I can assure you that a leaking fuel line in between the two banks smells a lot!


    That's all I have as ideas and direction! I hope you track down the coolant leak!

  11. I'm pretty sure that the front is an R200, super common on S13's,  GTRs, 180's, 240's as a rear diff so there are lockers for the front and lots of regular people have installed them.... the H233 rear is another thing. Not that it isn't available.... ( https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/19851995-wd21-pathfinder-mechanical-locker-c-38_1321_1208.html ).... but installs are a lot less common, as are any setup and fitment issues that might be present.

    • Like 1
  12. Running through the gears is quite easy, you just need to get the rear wheels off of the ground but try to keep the truck level. It _may_ be that you are super low on fluid, but if there are metal flakes in the oil then that transmission is probably on it's last legs.

  13. That's not something that you can find at a general parts store. That's a dealership (maybe) part, or an eBay part. It's a really simple system and just needs both wires attached. I don't really care if mine lights up or not so I never bothered to fix mine!

  14. That does seem normal to me. In reverse, 1st and 2nd the transmission is 'locked' in that gear choice. In drive there are at least two other gear options for the transmission control unit to choose from, which it will do according to its programming, in concert with the overriding control of engine operations from the engine control computer (tuned for regular street driving and fuel efficiency). That being said for a V6 from the 1990's it's not really that efficient compared to anything current.

  15. I gotta say that sounds seriously like you need a new transmission. I wouldn't imagine there are that many in Alaska so maybe hit up eBay first and see what available there. After that I would do a full fluid flush from the cooler at the bottom of the radiator and run at least 20 liters through it... yes it's going to cost you 5 gallons of trans oil, but that is cheaper that a transmission install. Make sure that you run the truck through all of its gears while you are doing the flush, otherwise old oil might be lurking in places that it shouldn't. Expect oil leaks afterwards ( the new oil is less dense an _does_ seep past the seals) which should slow after a few months of "marking it's territory". That's all I've got... Anyone else have suggestions?

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