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SpecialWarr
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Posts posted by SpecialWarr
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I would let the truck warm up and then do the compression test, the coolant is most likely a head gasket so the compression test should tell you which one, the compression-hold test is the one you really want to use with a possible head gasket failure. It's a compression test done over time watching the _rate_ of pressure loss over a 5 minute window for each cylinder. All of the cylinders should be close except for one or two, depending on the specific type of failure
You can do the compression test cold as well, I did mine cold and still had 169psi as the lowest reading of the six with the rest all hanging around the 175 to 180 psi mark. The #6 is a pain but if you have the original tool bag it has the correct length tool to reach all the way down to the #6.... there is a combination of regular extensions that will get you the same thing but hella difficult to get the plug back into its spot with the damn wobbly extensions. Take the hood off so you can at least have some space to work. It will make your life _much_ better!!
As for the misfire, there are too many things to list to even begin what it _could_ be, but start with new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. That will eliminate the most irritating and easy things that MAY be slightly wrong / cracked/ broken /tracked or otherwise out of specification. After that we have lists and lists of things that can cause a misfire, but they cost more money!
That's all I got for ya!
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3 hours ago, snowboard419 said:
You should do a volt drop test on the starting circuit. Take one meter leed to bat pos, other leed to the crank signal wire on the starter. Have assist crank engine. Meter should read less than half a volt .5. If it is up in the 1-3 volt range or more the problem is not the starter. Repeat same test for the main power cables . Bat pos to starter pos . And then move leads to bat neg and starter housing. All meter readings need to be taken while cranking engine. Pull fuel pump fuse so engine doesn't start. And dont get yourself runover. If it doesn't make sense let me know and I can explain
What he said! Do NOT remove the damn starter just to bench test it, it's 3 hours the first time to remove it and you won't be much further ahead. Other ting to do is to start with 1 full new can of brake parts cleaner and empty it on the starter, solenoid and wires, hit it with a degreaser as well and then there should be little to no chance that it is being caused by oil running down from the filter area ( cost me 1 original starter after 26 years of dutiful service ).
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The IAC is super easy to clean after you get it off. The only real PITA part is getting your right hand under the rear of the intake to remove the retainer clip, and plugging the new one back in...
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I did the same thing, and added a clean ground to one of the seemingly random bolts in the engine bay next to the MAF off of the new plug that I wired in. Not that I had an idle issue other than a super dirty IA and the requisite stumble while getting off of the highway.
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Dude... now that you have me all hot and bothered with the sexy exhaust.... where's the video with awesome 3.0 sound!!
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That's stock!! Lol!!Looks great, but take that awful exhaust tip off!
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10 minutes ago, Teesetz said:
Once the kids older and wants to help, waiting on the day. Lol
My nephew as well, loves the Pathfinder and thinks that it is quite fun to drive up the 45 degree slope towards the cottage through the trees and over the rocks. I just need to make a rear e-brake line for the disc-brake rear axle and have the frame repaired before I give it to him on his birthday in a few years. Should be a hoot to see him driving it around for the first while!!
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I would tell you to pull the starter but I don't think you have that much time on your hands AND it's probably the ignition switch anyway!
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NICE!!!!
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Right, so now the procedure is to follow the WHITE/BLUE wire along its path in the harness from the relay back to the fuel pump. This is going to be a visual inspection for broken and cracked harness covers, missing tape and exposed wires.... I would start at any place where the harness makes a turn or passes through a panel. I would personally start at the harness in between the front and rear doors and check for continuity in the white/blue wire there ( make sure your equipment is working AND that you get a good ground!). If you have low ohms there, then your problem area is at the rear of the truck. Move halfway along the wire from the middle of the truck to the fuel pump and check for continuity there: low ohms again means that your problem is closer to the fuel pump, high ohms means that you passed the spot where the wire is broken. The same is true for working in the other direction towards the front of the truck. Just keep splitting the distance in half until you are at the section that is the problem, chop the broken part out, throw some heat shrink on both ends and solder yourself some wire in there!
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I would tell you to drill 1/8" holes in the bottom and shoot them every year with P.O.R 15 type product.
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Oh I am down for that, can't leave the city for the next million years because of the virus outbreak but I can dream!
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Just did a quick shop on eBay, that proved to be useless! Maybe try signing up to eBay australia, since Thailand has a huge aftermarket parts for the WD21, you might be able to track something down there.
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No power at the fuel pump is the broken ground wire or a chaffed wire loom between the exhaust on the left side and the tank guard. The diagram is of the connector at the fuel pump at the top of the tank back to the main harness, to be checked with the key on and engine off, there should be voltage at terminals 2 and 3( sequentially, no jumper needed). If you have 0 at both then it's the ground for sure.
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2 hours ago, dg1 said:
It will turn over, good strong battery, I haven't tested fuel pressure, fuel pump does come on but maybe it doesn't have enough pressure, thanks for you reply, btw do you know how much pressure it should have?
i
If I recall that should be over 43 at startup and 51 running warmed up at idle.
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I was under the impression that the Front diff in the first gen Xterra was that same one as the one on the WD21 but I may be mixing things up in my head.... it's been a long time since I was shopping for Pathfinder parts.
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These were plagued with a weak transmission cooler ( now quite popular in current vehicles) located at the lower tank in the radiator. IF, perchance, that is the the original rad, then the engine may have inadvertently mixed the coolant and transmission fluid. That would be bad. Usually though there would be at least some warning, no power going uphill, weak acceleration, lots of flaring....and if you pull the radiator cap you'll see oil floating around. If you have no oil in the rad you _should_ be alright on that front. Complete loss of drive and reverse does sound like more of a relay / elecritical power issue rather than a solenoid. Never heard of multiple solenoids all dying at the exact same time. I would look at the electrical side of things first, mostly a loose or broken ground cable is what I am suspecting, but don't rule out anything yet!
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You'll be fine! You got this!!
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@acfreak I'm guessing that yours is a manual also? I have an auto and it doesn't like to go faster than 65mph. The 3 point _slow_ only has 158 hp from new so going up hill in a 3900lb truck isn't going to be that zippy! I would suggest cap-wires-rotor and plugs because that will make a difference, but fuel filter and air filter most likely need to be changed
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I will give you 1000 Kanuckistan dollars for it!! Nice score!!
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I have to go with Manik on that one.... I was thinking a relay at first but the truck would have started back up immediately if it was.... then only other things that are left really are the main ground strap or the fusible links. Main ground strap would have everything off no lights at all) but might be an easy diagnose: pull on the strap, if the other end comes off, there is your problem! The fusible links are easy to overlook as long as they keep passing current through them! Look for a mushy... uhh try.... "feel" for a mushy wire cover (probably the black one) on the fusible links. That will be your problem link ( if it has gotten overheated from running a lot of current for a while); replacements are available but you'll need to figure out which one it is and its amperage (which should be in the wiring diagrams of the Service Manual). Good luck!
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Misfire code and system lean code, both point to a fuel supply problem so start there. I would change the fuel filter for starters, worst case is that it delivers the same amount of fuel! The misfire could be anything from electrical to mechanical to electronic but the usual process of elimination of possibles is more important now.
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The Gospel has been spoken! If Mr. Reverse says then it be!! A 2" lift should make it easier to drill out all the exhaust studs and install the M10 studs from the Z31 as well!
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Depending on where you are , I have a fully operational VG30 installed in my old truck and running... swing by Montreal, QC and we can pull it out some weekend.... gift/ donation / donor to keep another WD21 running.
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1990 Pathfinder Automatic gauge cluster
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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The 1990 has a 6 digit cluster, tops out at 999,999.9 assuming that one makes it that far!