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Posts posted by SpecialWarr

  1. I did make a tool but you will have to remove the upper plenum. There is no way to get to the knock sensor with the upper plenum still on. The tool was a bicycle spoke from a mountain bike. I first sharpened the threaded end of it (to wedge between the plastic body and metal clip) and then bent the other end into a good size handle around a piece of metal about 4" long. The hard part is figuring out the angles that you need the pointy end to make to be able to get to the sensor. You can reach the sensor with your fingertips if your hands aren't too thick but you need the tool to be able to get the clip off. After the clip pops off a slight tug up towards the plenum and the connector should come off. Getting it back on is much more challenging so start with the knock sensor and then go and take a break after go get that done; you'll need it.


    As for the resistor and condenser you would need to know the exact specifications for the resistor and condenser (resistance and Farad capacity) to be able to patch them in to the harness. That's not information that I went and looked for so it may be available in the FSM but I wasn't looking for it at the time.

  2. https://www.courtesyparts.com/auto-parts/1991/nissan/pathfinder/se-trim/3-0l-v6-gas-engine






    They are not cheap and you will have a lot of grief getting to the connector for the knock sensor at the back of the motor under the windshield under the lower plenum.... Mine took an entire afternoon to remove everything, make a tool to pull the wire retainer clip, drain the coolant, plug everything back in and put everything back on.

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  3. It's an interesting idea but installing one is going to be your biggest challenge. Sealing will be difficult but possible since you would need a two-part refrigerator door seal (to keep the water out) that goes all the way around the window. The problem with that is how you attach the vinyl seal to the canvas/ nylon since glue and epoxy won't work (heat seal maybe).... that should get you a water proof seal. I think I would recommend a transparent glass portion instead of translucent vinyl but then you would have added weight, fragility and storage issues. Interesting idea though!!

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  4. Well that's going to depend on what your local laws state is a legal stick-out or maximum offset. I know that I can get a -20 to clear the inside of the fender flares so I don't see why another 7mm is going to make a difference. That's a quater of an inch... that may be enough to irritate a police enforcement agent ( around here that might be enough to get you pulled over ) but not likely to make much of a difference. You should look into what is and isn't a legal modification in NZ... I'm sure google can help!

  5. The speaker and radio are on their own circuit as can been seen in the fuse box under the dash and have nothing to do with the engine circuits unless they were wired directly to the battery. IF they were wired to the battery you may have popped a fuse somewhere else. I also would like to note that if you don't have a fuse to the dash, the truck won't start... at all...


    The real question is : does it crank? If yes, then your problem is most likely coil; if not then: weak ground straps, ignition module (prone to failure) or a oil soaked starter (replace). Aaaannnnd that's all I've got...

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  6. That, to me, sounds like you have a stuck or seized piston inside one of your brake calipers. I could be wrong but the last time I had that happen was because of 1) my cheap ass not greasing the guide pins for the caliper and 2) a seized piston from my dumb ass having stabbed a hole into the seal while trying to get the caliper off. But I'm a brrroke bicycle mechanic so I have to do my own work. That's all that I can point you at unless you want to get into specifics of your vehicle!

  7. The Pacesetters work fine, like it has been mentioned before, the paint burns off but that's because it's for shipping and not extreme temperature paint.


    On the rear of the driver's side make sure to mow off about 3/16" off of the end of the header to clear the engine hoist clamp BEFORE you try to fit them on.

  8. I'd would say that the chance of anything "slipping" is minuscule at best... speaking direct to the spacers anyway. I still had my compressors on after I installed the spacers and Joey and I were pulling down on the axle just to get the springs back in. The only time something should "slip" is if the shaft of the shock rips off either the upper retainer nut-spacer-washer from the body or the piston-shims-nut off of the shaft itself.... both are extremely unlikely occurrences. That's just my experience with Fleurys spacers, nice machining by the way Steve! If you've never seen one they have a 16-19mm step on the inside to nest one in another and retain the spring in place on the seat. That is not going anywhere without something else breaking first!

  9. I can't really see a difference but I went with the spacers since they are available in 1 and 2 inch stacks AND I don't have to cut the pigtail offfff of a Cherokee spring. Both were a bonus for me since I have no space for a pair of old rusty springs in my apartment and my cheap grinder died a horrible death while doing a welding job on the frame of the Pathfinder.


    Other than that, Cherokee springs are cheaper in parts IF you have the tools already; otherwise the cost of a set of springs PLUS the cost of a grinder are the more than the cost of a pair of spacers. Either way you'll need a set of spring compressors and some _really really_ tall jackstands. The 32" set we had were _just_ tall enough to be able to getter done!

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  10. That being said.... I would think you could get close to 300 at the wheels in a daily driver with the long block ( as mentioned above) but it won't even think about operating in the cold without a really good ECU tune from a standalone system or a Jim Wolf setup. Pistons could be custom machined (yes verrry sexy.. mmmmm... machined pis.. oops.... sorry about that. My mind started wandering.) that will get you back some lengthy driving time at a cost.


    Minimum requirements must be: Premium fuel, Jim Wolf ECU tune / standalone, fuel pump, injector set, hoses, clamps, money.... think that'll get you a reliable boosted WD21!

  11. So the engine revs up to 4k? or just the needle in the dash?


    I'd say that the transmission control unit is having a hard time but I bet the ground wires need to be looked at, I would also check that the trans is not loosing any fluid (maybe a drain and refill might be in order). Umm.... did you check that you are getting flow _out_ of the radiator because that may be blocking oil flow from the cooler in the bottom of the rad (they do that). I ran two coils of flexible copper tube ahead of the rad for.... like... two years bypassing the rad completely.


    So no solutions, just a few suggestions!

  12. I was under the impression that the long blocks were identical between the Z31 and the WD21, the intake, and all other accessories were quite different but some people have gotten some serious horsepower out of these engines at the cost of reliability.


    for one:


    but that engine gets rebuilt or blown up often.


    for two :



    Both of these guys are running some serious boost into their turbos so you know that's hard on a car's internals. So no... they are not going to last a long time at that kind of output. If you want power you _have_ to sacrifice reliability OR money (mostly both).


    That's my two cents worth so take that for an internet opinion but I have a fairly fresh motor _when_ you need one.... it's not cheap though... and shipping isn't free! LOL!!

  13. Both of those front trailing arms are supposed to be straight as an arrow. I have no idea how you do that to a cast steel piece but I would bet an attempt to remove the truck from where it was stuck was the culprit. I'm pretty sure those are only on the early WD21s (my '90 has them) and suspect that they are on up to 1992/93 when they started making changes (round dash models). Don't bother trying to straighten that though, you'll need to bring the piece up to at least cherry red (preferably orange) before it will even move, at that temperature the bushings will be on fire (press-in bushings) and you need to have an alignment bar to make sure that she's beyond straight by 3 degrees and comes back to straight once it cools. 1/8" out won't kill you but it's going to be tough to get the bolt in and threaded! Once you've done that the thing is going to need to be tempered in an oven a 200 degrees C. for about an hour. Then you need to install new / used and good bushings at both ends.

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  14. The coil can put out about 35-38000 volts (one of the highest in a regular truck ) so good wires and excellent grounds are needed to make sure that gets through the plugs. I highly recommend using the dielectric grease that comes with the wires on both ends! It helps! Plugs can be almost any in the right heat range, length and projection. Dirt cheap Champion all the way to Bosch iridium will make virtually no difference. I like the Bosch and NGK because they are easy to find albeit pricy. But for $35 for 6 plugs the Champions are tough to beat! A touch of anti-seize on the threads and good to go!

  15. Well since everything is attached, new and good-ish then the only thing left to check is every single grounding point in the engine bay. I sanded and cleaned every point where a cable was attached to the body so that should work for you. You have to remove every cable and sand and clean the ends, sand and clean the body down to the metal and reattach the cable ends where they come from. Then you can be sure that your electrical connections are not the problem. If that don't work: y'all need to take that to a electrical specialist!

  16. You may also want to take a multi-meter to the fusible links to see if voltage is running through them ( most people just ignore them until nothing works ). tapping the relays may also help but won't fix anything, just point you in a direction.


    As in any electrical system (on a car) start at the battery, then test the thickest wires leading away from the battery, then test the grounds to the body, motor and starter in that order. The tests should be for voltage first and _after_ you remove the battery post connectors, for resistance. Voltage should read battery voltage to the tenth of a volt everywhere you test, resistance should be 00.00 to 00.03 from one end of a cable to the other. Don't forget to wiggle stuff and re-measure. Keep doing that for every smaller wire in the system shown in the FSM (download from nicoclub.com ). Once you get better at doing this you'll be able to take some shortcuts. UNTIL you get better at diagnostics, stick with this method as it is _infallible_ for finding the problem.

  17. Your 13v reading was with a digital multi-meter? And at the two posts _on_ the battery, not on the clamp, right? If both of those are right then I would suspect that the alternator's voltage regulator is on it's way out. Take a look for the '94 Maxima alternator or the one for a Nissan Quest / Mercury Villager, they tend to be considerably less expensive than the ones of the Pathfinder.


    Your battery shouldn't ever read anything below 12.2v IF everything is working as it is supposed to but WORD TO THE WISE: get a second multi-meter to make sure the the first meter is reading correctly. I had to learn that one the hard way and spent $$$$$$ on a new alt, a new battery, and a new starter. A $30 mechanical multi-meter is waaaay cheaper than a $150 alternator.

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