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Posts posted by SpecialWarr


    Mine, when driving conservatively on the highway will get about 140-170km to that point...City driving I get about 115 to each 1/4 roughly. Usually get 500 to about 65 liters of gas. Which works out to around 18 mpg. I can get low 20's on the highway in the summer. Winter is a write off dude to more idling and wheelspin haha.

    If I'm only getting 70ish kms for the first quarter tank during the winter and half city half highway driving are we calling that bad?


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  2. Mine did something like that during a weekend at the cottage in July. I tracked it down to oil infiltration into the electrical circuits from the leaky oil pressure switch. I tried cleaning the oil off and it worked four more times. I bought a remanufactured starter and then the relay stuck itself open and fried the bendix on that one. Soooo the parts guy was nice and gave me another starter and a relay.


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    Damn, how cold is it there now? I just filled the tank ( as the truck ran out of gas at about 60 feet from the entrance to the gas station ) on Thursday.


    That's 81.2 liters and 454kms to EMPTY empty!


    Maybe I need to stop with the weeknight parking lot drift sessions?


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  4. Yea it's as easy as changing a flat.


    You'll need metric and SAE hexagonal wrench set, a snap ring plier set (cheap is okay) four or five clean new rags and two old and dirty ones to put tools on. A small tube of grease, a soft faced hammer and maybe a couple of flat-blade screwdrivers.


    Depending on which manual hubs you are installing you might need a few more things but that's why they come with instructions!


    Make sure that the truck is parked and in 2WD with the wheels chocked.

    Grab a 6mm hex wrench and pick a side to start on. Crack all of the bolts and re-tighten them after you do. Once you get to #6 then un-screw them and give the hub end a tap. Pull off the end of the hub, grab the spring and the loose metal ring. Throw them away. The snap ring you'll need so remove that along with the washers and put them on a clean rag. I needed two flat bladed screwdrivers to pry the inner cup off on one side of my truck. Maybe you'll be lucky and not have to!!


    From this point going forward is going to depend on your new hubs and their respective instructions.


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  5. Yes, it does do it at all times... just after warm-up, after I've driven down the highway for 30 minutes, puttering around the city. If I come to a stoplight and hold the truck with the brake I get the annoying stumble, but as soon as I slide it into neutral the idle glides up to 750 on the nose and smooths out so that I could have an overfull coffee cup sitting on the dash without spilling any.

    What's the life expectancy of an Idle Air Control Valve? My Pathy only has 138K kms on it but I'm hoping that I get to keep it for a while.

  6. If you know someone who has a MIG welder or can rent one it is possible to weld a large nut on the remaining steel stud in the head and remove it with a wrench. There's no worry about welding anything to the head itself since it's made of aluminum not steel. I hear it's way easier to fix it that way than to remove the head!!


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  7. Not to hijack the thread or anthing but I have a few questions for those of us that are new to the WD.


    I have done the routine tune-up items ( plugs, wires, oil, fuel filter, vac. hoses, , ATF, Seafoamed the injectors at 20:1 ratio, annoying 2"of fuel line is still on the list for the fuel rail).... I've cleaned the throttle body by hand and changed the gasket and reattached the intake with marine grade stainless steel clamps.


    Changed the idle sensor thing (whose name escapes me at the moment) and "set the idle" according to the FSM. I am still getting an idle in neutral of 750 on the nose. As soon as I slide the auto into drive with my foot on the brake the rpms drop to 690/700 and the idle goes from uber-smooth to an erratic stumble.... Ideas on what area I have overlooked??


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  8. I'm going to be giving the truck to the mechanic and I'll let him deal with the rusty bolts of the squeaky tension rod. The bushings are still there but the bushings spin by hand and the tensioner cups are non-existent on the truck. I'm not looking forward to the bill though!


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  9. Yea, the Volkswagen I had bought in B.C. had that problem that I was un-aware of. When the firefighters finally had the fire out they pointed out that the fuse box was hot-wired in just that way.


    I would begin a grounding trace from the rear lights and go through to the front. Replace any sketchy wires on the way and look for un-attached grounding wires. Do the same from the headlights back to the panel.


    Or give it to a mechanic and have them do it for you!


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  10. I don't think that there are more than one or two manufacturers of electrically controlled shocks. I have read that they cost in the $200- $250 each range here online. www.4x4parts.com has some Bilstein Heavy-duty shocks on their site for $66.78 to fit our trucks. They ship quickly and the prices are good. That being said the last time I rode Bilstein was on my Volkswagen Rabbit and I thought they improved the ride by adding about 20% more damping which I thought ideal for that car.

  11. I didn't let them know that I was aware of this as a repair part, I just told them that I needed a new connector for my MAF (sloppy fit), this is what I had delivered. I, obviously, gave them all the pertinent info on the truck including the VIN when I was there the first time to order the part. I'm aware that it's also the first year of the VG30E here in Canada.


    So what I have in my hand:




    Maybe there is a difference in US and Canada emission control versions??

  12. Yea I talked to the parts guy at my local dealership and they told me that the "official repair" is the harness pictured above. I also had this discussion with them in regards to what I have under the hood and the harness' conflicting wire colors and diameters with no information from them to clarify my issue. There also doesn't seem to be anything in the Haynes so that's no help either... I hate electrical issues to begin with, so all of this is getting me closer and closer to handing it to a mechanic!!


    I understand that the '90 is a transition year between sub-models and a lot of stuff crosses over between the older model and mine but without a wiring diagram I'm in the dark without a match...

  13. That's a nice counter! The problem I have is this is what I'm looking at and the wire colors, when the plug is connected to the MAF sensor are ALL wrong...





    And yes I know the lower airbox is broken and being held on with 6 zip-ties to the upper airbox.... it's on my list to fix....just like the possibly faulty injectors, but first things first!

  14. Hey guys I have a question: I have 1990 WD21 which I bought last summer. It's had a few things that were needing attention the MAF included. I took a look at the wiring on the truck and have only three wires on my MAF connector and only one connector to the sensor end. The other end is hardwired into the harness with some seriously big wires. I tweaked the sloppy connector ends for now but which wires are what function? I can post up a picture soon but I'm just trying to get my bearings with conflicting wire colors.


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