SpecialWarr
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Posts posted by SpecialWarr
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I've done mine twice in 4 years. I usually start by removing the wiring clip, case ground and whatever the other wire is from the alternator from the top of the engine bay. Grab a 5mm hex wrench and remove the bash guard since you'll need to get the old alternator out, then I loosen and remove the upper pivot bolt and slide back under the truck with a 5mm hex and the 10mm ( and/or 12mm?) socket and ratchet and loosen off the tensioner stop-bolt on the back of the bracket about 1 turn (just enough to let the long bolt move). Then grab the 5mm hex and oil for the thread (since you'll be screwing that _into_ the stop block you do _not_ want that to break off like mine did) and wind the bolt clockwise about 4 full turns, this will release some tension off of the belt. Now you want to loosen off the lower bolt, then remove the bracket retainer bolt off of the back of the bracket. Get your free hand up and pull the belt off, then hold the 16 lbs of alternator while you unthread the lower bolt and bracket. It will want to fall into your head while you are down there so be ready for it!
As to getting it back in, I start with the upper bolt resting on its outer holder /perch/ thingy and try to orient the alternator from underneath and use my free hand to push the bolt into the first parts of the pivot. If it seems to be staying there you can swing out and move it around from the top of the motor to get it into place, thread it most of the way in but don't tighten it yet. The rest is place the bracket, get the belt on, get the rear bracket bolt on, then the lower bolt, tension the belt, tighten the stop-block bolt and finally torque the lower and upper alternator mounting bolts, re-check the belt tension (1/2" of deflection mid-way with 20 lbs of force) and either adjust it OR if you are already awesome, put the bash guard on and connect the electrical connections.
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Dang that is crazy! If you dont mind my asking, where do you live?
Montreal, Canada. You wouldn't think it would be that challenging seeing as how we are about 100 miles from New York state, Vermont and half of that distance from the Province of Ontario All of which are great sources for "better" condition cars than what we have in this province. Nevertheless, bringing a car into this province from another province is a 3 to 4 week process of paperwork, mechanical safety inspections and repairs before you get to pay the DOT for the privilege of driving for one year. Once it's done, it's done but damn what a pain.
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I would love one but I've seen secondhand the literal mountain of paperwork involved in getting one into this province.... One guy had a full banker's box with file folders full of papers, each folder was for the same car but a different country / importer / registration / government legislation and shipper. I nearly died on the spot; mind you his Nissan GTR is immaculate, had (if I recall) 13,000 and something kilometers and was AWD, twin turbo rolling on new tires. BUT I'm not sure that even for that would I go through what he went though to _get_ a car here, inspected, registered, safetyed and paid for.
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And I have to say that without the find ladies and gentlemen who hang out on this forum, the cool guy in the R50 covered in mud who gave me the thumbs-up on the highway and RockAuto I would have given up long ago..... There's a beer at my place for anyone and everyone on here!! You all rock hard the Pathfinder cult!!
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I think I would like to get a Patrol, but I'll be damned if I'm going to spend six months jumping through red tape, logistical hoops and deal with the DOT inspection.... but if anyone in Quebec has one for sale I'll get my hands on it while the smoke is still dissipating off of the keyboard!!
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Well I guess that would work out to 3 years and a few months and 123K to 185K and ...like.... $6000 in parts and tires. Some needed, some for peace-of-mind and some were replaced needlessly because of oversight (to the tune of about $1700 of the $6000) on my part....twice.
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Joey and I work together and we've been talking about heading out for a short spin through the woods / clay behind his place for a while.... _that_ plan finally came together this weekend after my short trip to the U-Pull-a-Part... I swung over to his place and we did a bit of this:
https://www.facebook.com/joey.dinel/videos/10153831518576216/
I still never made it over to adamzan's place.... my bad (too much bad family stuff going on this year)...
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Nice work! Mine was an absolute nightmare and I got to the point where I removed every wire under the dash, cut "whatever" was soldered to it that didn't look factory and pulled every wire, speaker and amp out of the truck just so it would stop eating the battery.... best move I ever did.
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Aaaand that's why I want to move there!!
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You can usually get a vehicle with _either_ a block heater or a battery warmer. I can actually say that I've never seen anyone who ran both at the same time. My VW, the Volvo and the Corolla wagon all had battery covers that were insulated but none had a battery heater. Since I use full synthetic oil I have no need for either the battery heater or the block heater, I also live in a 3rd floor apartment in the city and have no way of getting anything plugged into anywhere that isn't going to be stolen overnight by those little bastards that steal and scribble on walls.
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Slowly repainting after rust repairs, frame repairs and body work that. I _might_ be done by the end of next summer!
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This is what they look like new, on the right is the front shock, the clean bit is the strut / tension rod with new bushings, the long thing is the torsion bar.
This is what yours probably look like:
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I would be down with a real cargo mat that was thick, firm and held in place WITH access to the tie-downs if it went from the rear hatch all the way to the top of the rear seats, but, alas, it was not to be. It would have made sliding in my welder, cutoff saw and engine hoist far easier.
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Uhhh... multi - tone now.... Pontiac Cutlass burgundy on top, gloss fire red on the bottom/ around the rear wheel wells and on the rocker panels, matte black bed-liner on the hood and primer black on the front quatre panels...... and gonna stay that way until next summer.
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Take a look around through the forum, all of your answers are there since many have done this and have every possible answer!
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And sayyyyyy how MUCH would you want for that Pathfinder??
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Wait... I thought "lifter tap" was caused by _worn_ lifters?? How does cleaning them out with a bit of ATF help?
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Replaced the drivers' side disc brake pads in the rear, due to the stuck glide pins.... which ate the pad and mangled the inside of the new rotor. I swapped pads after an attempt at grinding down the rotor this summer but that only pushed back the pad change date to this weekend. Which is what I did, since I already lubed the glide pins once I beat them off of the carrier with a large hammer... unpleasant Saturday really.
I also noticed some water in the passenger side footwell this morning, which means that the sunroof is still leaking and has maybe lead to the frame around the windshield to rust enough to leak, because of the stupid drain tubes being plugged again.
Maybe if I just 
? it won't be a problem?? -
I don't think using a banjo bolt ( your's with the hole through it) would have been my fourth choice..... maybe fifth or so but I would not have left that there for any length of time as a "repair"... But then I'm like most of the rest of us on here ( I assume like yourself 'mam) do it once, do it right the first time. Stuck out in the desert I would just go and pull a bolt off of a bracket or something as option #1, out of a fan blade retainer as option #2 and a seat bolt as option #3!!!
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Those buttons are located about half-way down the back of the seat around the middle, they blend in quite well in my red interior since they are a dark grey. I pulled one out and there is a whole lotta thread on there so I suspect that they are, but I find the top of the seat too soft for my liking. My nephew's seat fit in well but it was new-ish and that's what us three boys used for our little trip into town. I left the install to my brother-in-law since he has much more experience! I cannot help you with your second question though!
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Leave the timing belt on and get it on compression stroke for cylinder number 1, loosen, but don't remove, the spark plug once your crank marks are getting close to TDC. _Then_ check that the cam timing marks are correct AND count the number of teeth between them.
Thanks Adamzan!
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15 degrees BTDC; line up the marks on the two cams and the crank on cylinder #1 TDC compression stroke with the rotor pointing to the 11 o'clock position looking towards the back of the engine( remove the plug to get it to TDC and the tooth count should be 41 (43?)between the cam marks (as a reference)... I can't help your oil leak though!
Everyone please correct anything I just said before ye get started though!
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I pulled my door panel off and glued a piece of plastic sheet over both of the door vents in the front ( wife didn't like the cold air either) but found that the cold air was coming in from under the dash as well. Since I have some rust issues at the rear of the Pathy I noticed that if the vents next to the hatch were left open / uncovered it made it worse. I blocked off the vents into the cabin at the back and it made a remarkable improvement. Since you're in Alberta I suspect that you don't have the rusting issues that we do here in the east but it may help overall airflow in the cabin if you block / close the rear vents.
Tire choices for original wheels? 1992 SE Advice? Thanks.
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted · Edited by SpecialWarr
A lot of people around here use the BFG brand of tires and that's a good choice if you don't have mud or deep snow. I need to get to the cottage so I went with the Goodyear Wrangler Territory (aggressive mud and snow tire). They are a bit loud on the highway when they are new but quiet down about 15% after they are broken in. They are great off road in the dirt, mud and snow but will understeer and plow if you turn full-lock and try to head in any direction other than straight ahead (tread design effect). Owned them for 2 years now and have many thousands of worry free miles on them. They do have a nice thick sidewall on them so I decided to remove my anti-sway bars since the ride was more harsh than I wanted. I did not really note much of a performance (sic) detriment to removing the anti-sway bars after installing those tires. The summer tires that I had were way too soft and allowed to truck to roll far too much to be comfortable without the anti-sway bars so I just sold them with the wheels and run the Goodyear tires all year.