SpecialWarr

k9sar is way ahead of me on this one RockAuto: search for PATHFINDER 3.0L V6 Body Lift Support

Both starters are remanufactured AC Delco. I've been looking around and I haven't seen anything other than the remanufactured ones online. BUT if perhaps someone knows someone else who may have a NOS new one I am willing to drop $700 on it right now if my average is going to be 2 years per starter.

Well. A remanufactured starter is worth about 2 years of daily driving. I'm just going to b*tch about spending $400 ..... twice. I am headed back up to the cottage where it died last weekend. I dropped it off at a garage across the street from a friend's house Monday night and he lent me his car.... until the truck was ready. And DAMN those boys at the garage are slow.And that was me b*tching. Now: does anyone has a NOS OEM starter they want to sell me for next time? [emoji52]

I'll take it off your hands for $500.... delivered! Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

Not being a master transmission tech I can't tell you when its going to go. But the signs are that it needs attention right now. Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

There is your pack, located under the transmission; oil, and filter will have to be removed to get to them. You may have a large can of worms to open though. If you've lost 2 gears that usually indicates serious trouble / lack of maintenance which may cost you more than you want.

Thought about him all alone at the shop and decided that I needed a few hours of tapatalk surfing.... particularly since I have seen 2 wd21s here in Kihei, Hawaii. One parked near illiili road and the other at the 76 station. Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

I'm with Cuong Nguyen on that one.... and in case you were wondering: an engine harness for $250 CAD is a great deal of peace of mind / dollar. But you need a warm weekend to get it done.

LOL... and there is a lot of that when a person is under the hood looking at all that stuff!

1 headlight, no High beam ( changed bulb, same symptoms) That sounds like 2 different problems: 1) a bad ground and 2) possible switch that's overheated / carbonized. Links to either of these I do not know but I'm be willing to bet my last $21.42 that the ground wires are corroded or broken. (One of the major problems with the Pathy are the cheap grounds.... coulda and shoulda gone with better but they didn't.) I went with cable eye-rings under the body bolts that hold the fender on, crimped and sealed, painted over and RTV'ed over that. Looks frankenstein but works great.

This is what it should look like from the front of the truck: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CswWM8F85nM And I just realized that this post does not address the question.... but it does show the position of the rotor! Sorry about that!

some air bubbles in the coolant Yep, I guess I should have thought of that as well seeing as I do much of the flush and refill at work.... suspension though!

I would suggest you remove and clean the blower motor housing around the fan, it comes off with a couple of screws. There is a how-to ( I think) in the Garage header section. The power fluctuation might be trees leaves and stuff slowing the motor or the resistors starting to overheat. Either way, clean that thing out and take a look around for other issues!

It could be a fuel pump on it's way out but you should be able to hear the pump kick in when you hit the ON part of the ignition cycle before you start it. The timing on the distributor might be off just enough to be a pain, you may want to check that the distributor is clocked and locked down ( 15-17 degrees of advance at idle, I believe) And that's all I got!

Dirty intake or Idle Air Control Valve would be my first two guesses, A can of intake cleaner and 20 minutes can take care of both of those! Watch out for the coolant line on the bottom of the throttle body if you decide that you want to clean that as well. Other than that I would think that maybe the distributor cap may be off a few degrees... try turning it while the engine is running and see if that clears things up!

True, sorry about that adamzan. Since there is no snow I assume that we can still go wheeling after Christmas! North of Hawkesbury? I have a dinner on the 28th though!

Drop me an Pav a line if you make it, we can call adamzan and drag you into the woods for a bit of wheeling!!

I would have to say that it may be a broken shaft or pulley but then the car must sound like crap in either case and have no power.

I spent another weekend welding some CR1018 to the area around the wheel wells and replaced a 5" piece of vacuum hose from the FPR to the back of the intake. Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

All I have to offer is a panhard rod bushing, but I base that on no evidence at all!

The stock shocks can handle that much more travel as the stock springs drop right into place even with the shocks still attached. You may find the end of the travel a bit harsh but after the 2" lift that I installed there was enough place for at least another inch of spring. The anti-sway bars are an on-road performance handling thing; they just make sure that the body on the left side is attached to the suspension on the right side and vice versa. The shocks will be fine!

Australian!

I spent the weeeekend with a chop saw, 120" of 2 1/2"x .125", a 120" of 2"x .125" , a bench grinder, my Lincoln MIG 140, an angle grinder and nothing but trouble with the trucks' back end. Day-yam there is no place to get a MIG gun next to a frame rail. I will not post pictures because I am ashamed of the quality of my welds. They are not attractive.

+1

the strawberry milkshake of death hahaha yep... that's bad, if it looks like liquid strawberry juice then you should be good if the trans oil level is correct.