- Sign In Changes: You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password. Using your display name and password is no longer supported.
- If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.
-
Posts
5,158 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Everything posted by Mr. Pickles
-
HAHAHAHA!!! .... wait, are YOU serious? Worked and saved till I got my first P.O.S. truck at 17, then did all the wrenching and most all of the parts on my time and dime, although the parents helped as much as they could when my back was against the wall. Congrats on getting the truck back rolling, and be thankful. Once you're on your own, that ride (usually) ends.
-
Yowza. Yeah, I was one of the guys that got them for like $130 shipped, although I ended up having to get a 2nd shipment for $10 more with the bushing. Why would a guy actually want the bushings or want to install the UCA's anyways??? -thnkboutit- Oh, and I'm in western Washington vs. Cali, although I'm from San Diego and can be found there often. Anyways, all in all, they are great and that should still be a decent price, and they are pretty straight forward to install. Oh, and as for gifts... lots of fun stuff, but nothing for the truck. My bday was only 3 weeks ago, and I scored a locker (actually a "honey, can I buy this for my birthday? ) and she got me an air compressor. Soon though...
-
They may just need a cleaning. But yeah, with that low of miles, I'd go to the dealer and have them specifically look at them, test drive, etc. LOL about the Ford brakes, ain't that the truth. I know of at least 4 Fords between family and friends with endless brake problems.
-
Wow, that sucks to hear about Jim's rough patch. That's too bad, and Jim, if you're out there and see this, we're all pulling for you!
-
What type of stereo head unit do you use?
Mr. Pickles replied to MaritimeMan's topic in General Forums
There are already many good suggestion for decks. I'd go with Eclipse by personal preference, if you can find one for $150-250. It will probably end up being on of your strongest sound system decisions. -
Merry Happy Christmahannuquanzika...
-
The small timer is having issues? I'd love to jump sizes...
-
Have you money? Have you no comprehension of the dime? -thnkboutit- Seriously man, you're over reading the situation here. Small amount of rust = no problem. Simple fix.
-
Maybe your truck had some tough damage to the front suspension or frame before you owned it causing some alignement issues for which you're not aware. But if its somewhat within reason, they should be able to fix you up. Good Luck!
-
You mean after all that, its still cheaper than sourcing an importing it yourself??? WTF?!
-
Ditto what they said. But first, check all your fuses. There is one that powers both the dash lights and tail/marker lights. Check that first with somebody the help, just to be sure. If that checks out fine, also check into the wiring especially if you wired a deck with "illumination" such that you had to tap into the dash wiring in order to control the dimming/lighting of your aftrmarket deck. This could bring up some issues.
-
Dime size. 2mm. = SMALL, er, small. Dude, roll with it. Dime sized would mean dime sized, I'd think. There has been far too much reading into the interpretation of dime sized vs. the solution to the dime sized rust.
-
QX4, Pathy, its all (mostly) the same, huh. Keep on a' searching, and keep on a' posting! By the way, I want your truck.
-
Ditto 88 and Vsicks, especially since he specifically mentioned recent issues with the fuel pump (wiring at least). Also, if its bright light conditions try dimming the light when checking for spark, just to be sure.
-
The cruise control is not lit, as has been said. Once you learn the feel on a quick drive, its easy enough. The speed sensor (if its the same part I thought I needed to replace) is actually behind the speedometer in the cluster and was something like $80-100 at NAPA. But that was by the Haynes manual, so please verify. Are you getting a computer code on this? You can find headlight assemblies on eBay and various sites for around $35-50 US per side. I bought one from a parts store on eBay like 3 years ago and its still in perfect condition and function.
-
Yeah Vsicks, given relative cost, we still pay a ton more for similar parts in the US vs. guys with domestic (US) trucks like Chevy's and Jeeps. And Pathy's are generally not common in junkyards here either. I tried at one point to look up some parts here + shipping for Mish, but the shipping cost was so insane. The US Post Office only quoted like $30 for a small light weight box of bushings and stuff, but their reliability abroad may be suspect. UPS wanted like $75 US for like $80 in parts! So somebody hopefully can guide Mish toward some easy to acquire and afford parts or info on a SAS, as we'd hate to lose a fellow Pathy/Terrano owner. Good luck!
-
Huh, gonna have to look at my Mom's SLK. So we're looking at the angle the wheel is leaning over while turning, as opposed to the difference in degree of turning of each wheel one could imagine while looking from above or below?
-
The Haynes book calls for bleeding if a hose or component is removed or replaced, and MAYBE if there is a leak. But regardless, they call for shutting off the truck for checking the fluid and adding more, then starting it up, cycling the steering etc., and rechecking the level.
-
Dude, you can't fault the truck for a bunch of stuff that either is worn out or is routine maintenance for that age. As for the starter cost... well... we could go many places with that. It was mentioned above, after all. The only abnormal things would probably be that starter, the coils (who says they have to be replaced? Is there a problem?) and the AC compressor. As for the rest, any vehicle with some miles will have those costs. But in the end, you're running down the road, and you've lived and learned. I bet you'll remember this next time something comes up. Welcome to the joys of vehicle ownership! On a side note, how fast did you push when bump-starting it? I've done it on cars before where you have to get it really MOVING pretty good, say around 5mph. Oh, and don't read too much into mine and other people's criticisms. We've all been there at one point, and just ask most any of these guys. I've pulled some good ones myself. Often. I'm good at it. -thnkboutit-
-
Assuming DJ Dank isn't in the middle of the order I said I'd be in on, then I'd go for 2 or 3 depending on price. White like the ones he was having made would be awesome, as I have limo black windows in back... well, all the way around.
-
Pretty much, what he said. /\ If its just that plastic on the steering wheel, it shouldn't hurt anything other than your nerves. Mine has been doing that for years, along with other squeaks, creaks and groans. Nothing 1200 watts and a volume knob can't handle.
-
Even if you could do it, if there is an option of $240 and you're willing, I'd take it in. If you don't have the experience, a place to do it, or decent tools, you'll spend $240 worth of patience and running to the store for tools. There are probably better/easier projects to put your skills to use. I personally am learning that whatever time I am quoted for a project, automatically double it. That way maybe you can suprise yourself. By the way, I had studs replaced soon after I bought the Pathy when I lived in my townhouse and had no garage to do the work(and the stock manifolds retained :furious: ) and, including throwing in a Flowmaster, tip, etc., I was looking at $900 for both sides. Oy.
-
I'd agree. If you at all run the risk of losing torque (maybe), its not like there is enough in the Pathy as it is. Why sacrifice pulling power on hills and when you're towing? I think you $$$ could be spent better elsewhere for power.
-
Good job. Yeah, its screwy. I had to match wire at the back of the deck and the rear amp in back, along with a tester and trial and error. In the long run, I went back and rewired around the stock wiring anyways, and I'd highly recommend this. Then you can go to better wire and have the piece of mind that its done RIGHT and not hacked together (especially since the previous owner apparently went to town on your wiring already). Anyways, its easy enough to just run the new wire and start fresh. Its a no brainer to pull up the edge of the carpet and run it back. Actually, its probably easier than tracing the old wiring and figuring it out, except for maybe getting the new stuff through the door and kick panel.
-
Strange, they'd omit the indicator? I guess Nissan is weird like that. As for the light, maybe its something as simple as a burned out bulb.
