Mr. Pickles

Congrats man, finally! :contract:

Sounds like a Pathy oasis/burial ground. Man, I gotta go east and visit you guys!

This guy is UW material.

Depends on what you are trying to do. If you're running "regular" driving/fog lights, you'd probably want to tap either the parking light or low beam circuits, or maybe high beam if you're running monster power or off road driving lights that only come on with the highs. Pretty straight forward: low beam circuit in general to power the lights, or parking light circuit if you want to run the lights with parking lights but no headlights (check your local laws, as this can be a no-no). This could also cover roof lights, as you'd probably want them off with your main lights, so if you turn off the main lights the roof goes as well. If you're looking for back up trail lights, you'd want to tap into the back-up light circuit to activate the relay, but if they're up high like on the roof, also install a switch so around town you're not blinding the little lady behind you at the grocery store while in reverse. Many local laws allow extra back up lights down low at bumper level; up high is pushing it from what I've heard, but what should set you fine in the eyes of the law is that your lights are only powered when you're in reverse (so you don't hit the lights on a tailgaiter).

B, you can use my garage. Just hook mine up while you're at it.

I've got a Flowmaster 40 on stock pipes, and it sounds good. Pretty low pitch off idle, with a nice rumble up to 2500RPM-3000 where there is resonance , then pretty loud and just a tad thrashy up high. I personally love it. I've heard Jim's back in the day when he had a glasspack, and it was a bit higher in pitch but had throat to the sound (just watched an old vid today as a reminder).

A mud running M.I.L. is priceless. I've got one Pathy(2nd Nissan truck, first was a 720 King Cab 4x4) but the neighbor up the street who seems to run something short of a chop shop has about an 88 or so 2-door sitting there for a couple months. I wonder how desperate he is...

This is HIGHLY recommended. Even if you think it wasn't that big a deal, you'd be suprised at what your body can deal with through adrenaline situations, as well as what your body can do as far as bracing and tensing up, that can cause injury you don't even suspect. Even a pretty small impact can screw up ones neck and back in the right situation. Anyways, it can't hurt and you might as well cover you bases. Its definately no place to play the tough guy. Other than that, get your truck fixed, get the girl's #, and hopefully call it a day.

You guys missed one of the cheapest tricks: make your passengers get out and push. Two gals from the office rode with me for lunch the other day. They're not used to the tall and bouncy ride, and especially the noise. One was like man, you drive fast and crazy. I said no way, but she didn't believe me. "Look at the speedo." 35 mph, the speed limit. At least the old girl sounds like Nascar junior. sly

Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on if you're the neighbor) that's often not the case. Especially if you live in a community with covenants (CC&R's), and often its even written into city zoning code, especially if they're not running.

Hey man, sorry, I've been busy and forgot. Besides, its covered in-depth on one of the body lift threads. Remember that search thingy?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1991-Nissan...1QQcmdZViewItem

Wow, man, good carnage! Have fun fixing it! Holler to people if you need some better pics of the way things should look.

Same with a Yakima racks, just figure out what you want and then what it takes to mount to your vehicle. eBay is your friend here too. I bought mine there for half market value at least. And of course, no cutting/drilling/bs/etc. Oh, and they are VERY STRONG, stronger than any factory rack I've ever seen by FAR.

I cut out a template from my torn up stock ones. The stock size is going to the SC88Pathy, and the body lifted one has gone to MaritimeMan for trial fitting (I already used this one and it worked out pretty well). If people are interested, I could try to post a scanned copy, although the scanner shrinks images about 5% or so. If you have *most* of the stock ones, its pretty straight forward. If you're adding 3" for a body lift, just look at the furthest mounting points on either side (front and back) and add 3" below. The WallyWorld cargo mat material I used was well under $10, and the aftermaket ones go for many many times that, so its up to you on what its worth.

How bout "disconnect battery." Kinda all-inclusive. I love the lowrider way. Just showed the Mrs. as I'm sure it would remind her of me. A shortcut of 10 min leads to an afternoon of cussing and pain. But screw it, you're having fun... right?

Are the ball joints sitting at an angle? Mine were probably 20-30 degrees off center with the Tbar lift and stock UCA's, but are pretty much straight up and down with aftermarket arms. Personally, after finally breaking down after years of hearing people talk about it, I think its worth the bit over $200 for new UCA's for piece of mind and properly functioning parts. Its really not hard to do either.

Yep, the locks are screwy. Mine LOCK themselves when you close the door, mainly when it is cold out. Also, the drivers door sticks locked sometimes. There are worse things you could deal with in other trucks though.

True that. A few years ago my dad and his next door neighbor hit 1 each within like a 2 week period. Poor pops, he had just got his Benz out of the shop after being rear-ended pushing him into the vehicle in front of him, only to have it go back in. I've only come close once, late at night in the fog. Stupid thing wouldn't move, even after I skidded to a stop. Do the roo's at least get the F@&%$ out of the way?

I wonder if there are rubber conditioners, or maybe even wrapping in some sort of tape or protectant. That rough that you've gone through them. I just replaced the upper ball joints whose rubber was ok, and just lost a CV boot, although that's with a front suspension crank, not-so-frequent use of 4 wheel drive, and 150K miles and 12 years of use (a 94 model built in late 93).

K9, you have issues. So do we have a 2nd on the backspacing? I'm looking for a cheap rim to mount a 31x10.5 spare on the tire carrier, but the stock spare rim won't cut it cause the tire won't clear the carrier frame. As long as it will fit there and fit the truck enough to get me home, goo 'nuff for me.

Total guess suggestion, but have you changed the fluids lately?

Hey bud, care to throw in a correct method or some resources for those that may be somewhat clueless? I don't have an LSD anyways, just a shot out for those that do. Welcome back again, by the way!

I've used cheap $30 Jensen tweeks from Sears for about 3 years now. I run them hard, along with the rest of the system (about 1200 watts total) and have yet to have a problem.

87pathy, good to see you in the fold. I do think you're over-qualified for a beginner's lift post, though.