Mr. Pickles

Are you talking about those bumper/stopper/bolt things on the lower control arm to limit the turning radius?

Have you considered pulling a junkyard CL (and other parts) on the cheap? May be better than doing nothing, and hopefully cheap. Other than that, drive slow, and we'll cross our fingers and hope nobody gets in your way.

"2mm" and "dime size" covers it I think. If its just surface rust, I'd suggest sanding it off anyways, then doing a rust inhibitor on top. There are the rust converting paints and treatments and stuff, but if its minor, why not just remove it altogether and solve the problem once and for all. Especially since its on the roof, and in an area concealed by your roof rack.

What's the price conversion to USD? Remember guys, he's in OZ. That brings up availability, shipping, etc. Not that I'm making excuses for what even locals say is B.S., just curious as to the comparable price.

Try searching around. Either online, or call your favorite parts dealer or off road store. I've also heard of it referred to as the "death wobble" if you're searching this forum for other people's experience. Good luck!

*pulls his latest "Petersen's 4Wheel and Off-Road" mag, truck of the year edition* Previous 4x4 of the Year Winners: 1987: Nissan Pathfinder (two door) 1990: Nissan Pathfinder (four-door) So the first of each edition earned 4x4 of the year. Then we both win, right?

I'd also say, never take what the insurance co. "decides" the first time around. Be difficult if its important to you, challenge their claim, whatever. Its your money. But, that's if its worth it to you I guess. On a side note, isn't it intersting to see what the value of the same vehicle is in different parts of the country? Oh, and congrats on your mother being happy. That's an important thing in life for a guy.

There is a guy with them that sells custom gauge faces on eBay from time to time. They are white with black #'s that light up/glow at night. Maybe you could find other versions from the seller. I'd looked into them a while back, but he only sold them for auto trans models that had a section to display what gear position you're in, so I didn't look further (I have a 5sp). I don't even know if they fit WD21's actually vs. R50's, as the auto thing ended my search, but it might be worth a look.

I'd have to agree. Not sure where you are, so out of curiosity I just checked the Blue Book value for here in Western WA. Sitting stock with 150K miles, it still was over $9K.

That's the same fuse that blew on me a couple weeks ago, but I have a manual trans. The interlock button stopped working, and the heater blower too. I replaced it and all was fine from that point. That's funny, cause I used to blow horn fuses often too. I just decided to hardly use the horn, and went ghetto and replaced the fuse with 1 size larger. I know, I know... Post if you ever figure this out.

:secret: Wow, I guess the 3 of us are on the same page, huh?

*Revised- sorry, didn't realize the original post was regarding a 2002 R50. My comments below regard a WD21, as I'm not really familiar with your rig.* I'd guess the small size of the filter would be due to the relatively small quantity of oil these engines hold. I don't think the stock filter is THAT big deal to get at really, never understood all the raving. Sure, its tough being down, away and sorta out of sight, but I've seen worse for sure. After you do it once or twice, you have a pretty decent feel for it. I had a Prelude that required practically a 180 degree bend at the waist to dive under the hood, then all kinda of body contortion to get at it. Plus, the filter orientation to the exhaust guaranteed a smoky first run after ever oil change. On a side note though, a body lift makes the filter a straight shot through the fender well between the body and frame, with a full visual. Sooo... $50 for the oil relo kit, or $100 for the BL. You make the call. As for Wheelman's relo location, I see that as bad news out in the open like that. On-road, I guess you could be ok. But regardless, its prone to rocks, metal debris, or whatever the road or trail can throw at it. But obviously he's been fine with it so far.

My Infinity Reference speakers are pretty much a drop in- or were, at least. Mine are several years old, about year 2000 or so. Why not just pull one each of the stockers, check for clearance, then take it with you when you're shopping. That would save a bunch of hassle.

I pulled the trim above the doors, and found a factory hole under the seal on the top of the passenger rear door jam, which lined up with the tower for my Yakima rack. I just under the carpet, then up the pillar behind the trim between the front and rear doors where the shoulder belt bolts too, then through the hole (with a rubber grommet of course) and up. There is a small section about 1" that is exposed, but its inside the doorjam, up and away from where you'd look, and its protected from the elements by the door, so I said good 'nuff for now. After all that rambling, perhaps a pic would be in order.

Good to see you around again Gardoni! Thanks for posting this up so an NPORA member can hopefully benefit. Somebody should scoop these up quick, that's a great deal!

If I remember right, I had to pry off the grill first on the rear speakers, then you can get in there. It feels a little sketchy, but you shouldn't break anything. Just take your time.

I'd agree with aftermarket UCA's, and they do look like the AC ones. Plus that rig sits about the same height as mine it seems (kinda hard to tell, as I have fender flares) and I have the suspension and body lift as well (minus the 33's). Anyways, that should work out to less spending and wrenching on your part, and more fun. Good score!

Whaaaa??? :o That's asshattish. What truck club meets for coffee anyways?! Madness. Oooooooooh, *has evil elf grin*. Buy a can of that spray on mud-in-a-can. I know, I know, just work with me here. Go to their meeting place, and while they're all inside chatting about the mods they'll never use, tag their rigs with the fake mud. I'd love to see their expressions.

I haven't read this thread for a while. Many of us have been around long enough to realize I have my moments as a smartass idiot. Sorry my attemps at dry humor didn't pan out. *insert foot here*

Air gun, as in, impact? Guess its a good thing the Ms. bought me an air compressor for my birthday. Time for more toys... *shakes his magic 8-ball: :Magic: "Signs pointing to no."

Thanks man! That fills in some more blanks. Keep it coming! I'm not familiar with some of the differential terminology, but can manage, can handle a wrench and can do what I'm told.

So it came in last week, and I've finally had a chance to check it out. For any that saw, I bought it via eBay, and from the shipping address matching that of LockRight's on the instructions, etc. it appears the unit came directly from Richmond Gear for $235 + shipping. Seems decent enough, so I jumped on it without much research at all. I figured between the install instructions and the Haynes manual, I should be able to figure it out. Heh heh heh... So the instructions that came with the locker are in something approaching Greek with only a couple generic pics. Oh, and there are several versions of both the lockers and install techniques depending on the type of diff you have, but no pics or plain English to help you figure it out. (I'm very much a visual and "just do it" learner). Better yet, the Haynes manual's approach to anything dealing with the rear diff is... "its pretty tough to work on, so we're not gonna cover it, take it to a shop." Thanks guys! So... Calling all those that have installed a Lock Right. I found the following site discussing the install on what appears to be what I'm after. Does anybody have input or tips, and does this site appear to be correct? Lockright Locker Install As it is, I probably won't be tackling this until at least well into January or beyond when things settle down, so now is the time to gather more info. and input. So, fire away. Anybody???

That's what I had too, McAfee popped up with the Trojan horse message earlier, but it said it was handled. I didn't even make the NPORA connection in my head, but I had just jumped onto the forum. I still saw the "flea" thing and though B was screwing around. Hopefully that is all, and we'll be ok from now on.

I AM in WA, and just up the road and with experience in Pierce & King Co. emmisions testing. My experience is that you only have to run an emissions check every other year, so that might help there as far as how often you have to run this smoke and mirrors approach. As for where to run the exhaust, I guess its time to get creative with the welder or have a friendly exhaust shop. I've heard rumor of some new slim Flowmasters that may solve random clearance issues. A straight pipe or glasspack may get you by until then, but my understanding is that if you fail an emissions test, then you have to provide reciepts for authorized emissions work- READ- not do it yourself. As in, if you can get if fixed, you're good; but if you have to take the waiver, it has to be based on "professional" work. So whatever path you choose, I'd look further into that and into the rules in general, just in case. Good luck!

The mass email brainwash worked for me too. Came running back like a scared rat. :Magic: