Mr. Pickles

Post up if you're still looking B. I've run across a few Pathys here, some with gauges seemingly intact.

Ah, a block heater type of thing then? As for Vasoline, ditto what B says. Remember what the health professionals say oil-based lubes can do to to undermine, um, rubber.

Yeah, so swap them for mine. Please.

I've used a stiff putty knife, and again no problems. As with most any any tool, patience and care will work just fine.

Try the Meter fuse under the dash. If not that, run the engine codes after driving, as the speed sensor will spit a code. If that doesn't help, proceed along your path.

Um, plug-in??? Must be a mid-west thing.

By the way, that's slick Filthy. Its just that with the body lift, it screws up the alignment of the bumper mounts and makes it a really tight fit. I agree that those stock mounts are a bit ridiculous in shape.

Glad to hear that all went well. If things go well, sure, its pretty straight forward. But there are the variables- use of truck, care, rust, neglect, etc. etc.- that can rear up and bit you on any repair. I have a feeling that was what most of the comments, warnings, etc. were taking into account, particularly my comments. Good job regardles. By the way, no pics? No write up? :contract:

He's driving a 95, hence not an R-50, no struts, etc.

I believe so. I've only looked up close once really since he just got it. It was owned by a friend of the family and is in great shape. I'm already in discussion about riding a bit and maybe getting licensed, since I've only had dirt bike experience. But anyways, I actually think he's looking at a setup that will still allow them to tow their 22' jet sled as well. Still, picks could help.

This is the same thing I've been thinking about. Anybody that's tried something using those tow hook mounts, please post up. I made a simple bracket using those as the mounting points to mount my brush guard thing since its from a Land Rover. But hopefully that is only temporary. I was looking at that as well as a solid point to mount a solid bumper and winch since its directly to the frame and exposed when you do a body lift. It might even make sense to go farther back and make a 3rd mount on each side farther back on the frame. Ok, 'nuff rambling. Anybody?

You should be able to rent a puller from a parts shop for cheap if you're around anything approaching civilization.

From what I've read, shocks are like batteries. A few major brands that also supply, many variations within the brands and models, etc. Stick with a big guy, you should be ok. Now if only they sold oil.

Good luck! Doing it in stages is probably better for your nerves anyways. Btw... She's a keeper, man. :secret:

Gotta love the homemade, built to do what you want it to do. Please post up on the motorcycle carrier. My dad is currently looking for a receiver mount or something similar for their RV to carry his older small Suzuki street bike (550, I think).

I've got Rancho 5000's and they're great, much better than the sloppy old stock ones. One advantage to Rancho is that they 2 offer lengths for both stock and suspension lifted heights. I was cross shopping, and Pro Comp didn't have that, they just offered a recommended range of something like stock-1.5" lift. Oh, and $85 a pair as opposed to $180 a pair.

I'll 3rd the in the dark sentiment. Most straight forward things suck enough in the dark, but with the awkward positions and lighting, you're not gonna be amused. Plus it will surely take longer.

Susp lift, new UCA's, ball joints, wheeling, etc. pretty much requires it. And with a lifetime service, you better bet I'm gonna do it whenever I feel the need. Especially since they have a shop about 2 blocks from work= drop her off in the morning, pick her up in the afternoon. :contract:

Ooooooooooh... *steals Filthy's ARB and leaves him a banana*

That's pretty trick, spendy, but trick. I'd take it. So why does your chronic make you shake, anyways?

Yeah, true that. If that's all you can get, I'd look new. I paid $20 per and scoffed, but they were already out so I didn't even have to turn a wrench. As for not aligning till you get your UCA's, depends on how much you like your tires. Sure you could go without, but you're steering will be crap with your tires pulling easy in ruts and stuff, and you're gonna smoke your tread pretty quick probably. That could get spendy. If you have a Firestone nearby, they offer a lifetime alignment for around $125-145 or so, depending if its on sale. I paid for it last spring- say 9 months ago. I triple checked up front that it was for the life that I owned the truck, that it wouldn't matter if I had aftermarket parts installed prior to or after, and even if it mattered if I did the installs. No for all. I had it aligned then, then again in August after installing the Rough Country UCA's, and again recently a bit after a wheeling trip and getting my new tires, just to be on the safe side. No questions each time, even with shiny new aftermarket parts installed. Already, that's 3 alignments under my belt in under a year and worth the up-front cost. I've heard of guys even having it done every other oil change or so.

LOL! Does anybody else see the irony here? "If you have questions on a lift, please call a tint shop." Where is Filthy with those Rice Police anyways? Thats like calling "Bubba's Beer and Shotgun Shack." I suppose they could be related somewhat, but...

The Flowmasters don't even have to be all that expensive. I had a local shop install a 40 series, plus a chrome tip (no comments!) and some new hangers for like $100. Not too bad really.

I personally wouldn't risk driving at all really, especially on a 600 mile trip where you're gonna go through 6 quarts of oil. You're running the risk of breaking down somewhere along the way, you'll probably be looking at replacing the cat and O2 sensor if you drive it burning all that oil, plus what happens if you do actually make it to school? Now you're 600 miles from home and still have a screwed motor. As for the motor swap to a different size, I'm pretty sure you're looking at some custom swaps of parts. There are posts on here talking it through, but I can't recall anybody actually going attempting it. Of course it CAN be done, but it sounds more like you're looking for a straight drop in, plug-n-play install. So, my vote would be to stop driving it around risking further damage or issues while you're guessing and asking for input, and actually check it out/get it checked out to see what the problem is.

UCA's, ball joints... go get 'em, sick, sick!!!