Mr. Pickles

LOL I've run these coils for 2 years now, and all is good. The laugh came from just now, the first time I tried searching Jeep ZJ pulls up a kit that, with a few mods, allows you to fit 31x10.5 tires. Ummmmmmmm.... Did somebody forget to tell them what the kids are playing with these days? sssh

After

In lieu of pics from keithb7, here are the before and after for me. 94 SE with springs from a 96 JGC. As keithb7 and I and many other have said, this is overall a very easy mod. Anybody with wrench experience and some basic hand tools should be able to do it, no problemo. These pics are kinda hard to tell because of the different angle, but I got about 2 3/4" lift with the rear tire carrier and about 75-100 lbs of subs, box, amps and cap all on the rear end. Not too shabby, and it took maybe an hour and a half with me alone and lazy.

Retest all of your lamp, meter, and tail/turn fuses, or better yet replace them one by one with a know good one, just to be sure. Couldn't hurt to rule that out for sure.

Dude, 346K miles?!? Yes, Nissans go forever when taken care of. But this is pretty good. If its been good so far, it might not be so crazy to rebuild. That would be pretty sweet to say at 500K miles that you have the original engine with only a mild rebuild over the years. Its almost a battle of wills now. At this point, check it out/ have it checked out. Hopefully its just up top and not a rod or something in the block, although head work sucks $$$ just the same. That tap at speed has me worried, as the symptoms sound like rod issues I've had in other rides. Mine has the somewhat chattery top-end, but it calms down and goes away as things warm up and with RPM's. But whichever way you land, good luck!

That is a dilemma. Solid truck with power-nothing, or beat up truck with power-everything. If manual windows and locks don't bother you too much, I'd almost be ready to pull the new calipers and good parts from the beat up truck and go that route. I've got power everything, but I'd personally sacrifice some of it if I had some serious bugs and issues that needed to be addressed. On a side note, I'd steer away from painting the dash. To me, doing that is just some hack work in the end, like chrome spinner hub caps. It will probably never feel like the original dash finish, and do you want to risk it peeling up or rubbing off down the road?

On you, most likely. I'd agree with Packie. If you're gonna have some, it would be cooler if you would design and create your own. The ones I've seen would most likely cause way more damage with them installed than if a branch or whatever just impacted the light. Mainly, to protect the light, people risk surrounding body damage AS WELL as damaging the light.

Do you mean that you have a rack system (towers, cross bars, and rack), or did you attach a ski rack or something to a your factory roof rack?

PIAA's (roof) and ProComp's (grill) do the job for me. The PIAA's are coming down to the grill soon, with the ProComp's plus an identical set in the garage both going up on the roof. That should be slightly bright. ProComps= 100 watts X 4, plus the PIAA's at 55 watt's X 2, plus the Silverstar's at 55 X 2. Soooo... 820 watts of lighting power. Time for that alternator upgrade plus some beefier wiring, i think.

MZ, that's kinda the point. Even if you have the tools and inclination, you're still looking at a lot of work and time even if things go ok. Hence the opinion that if you already have that much invested, you might as well replace with new parts.

I honestly wander how man ever got to the moon with stuff like that. P.S. Derograte, you are excluded from my scathing, but well deserved attack. You sound slightly annoyed.

Those are not exactly cheap PIAA's. Cheaper than retail, but still. And yes, it depends on what YOU want them for. Different models are far different in cost, size, beam pattern and intensity. You've got what are claimed to be 1 fog set and 2 driving sets. These are quite different products. Do you want short range diffused light for foggy and nasty weather, or focused long-range driving lights for long, straight and lonely roads and trails. Decisions, decisions.

What he said /\ . I've had a 40 series for probably 3 years now and its great. Nice sound, etc. etc. I bet you wouldn't be disappointed with a 50 either, although I can't vouch since I haven't used one. Regardless, from what I've seen, they're quality products. My brother has had dual 40's on his 5.0 Mustang for probably 7+ years now and it still sounds sweet.

Right on man. The to-do list isn't bad considering its obviously a project truck. I can't wait to see some pics once you have it up to spec and out on the trail. Maybe you could check out some WA trails with us, or guide some of us up there. I'd like an excuse to visit Canada again.

Wow, Nissan answered a question that nobody had asked. Terranaut? I think naut.

If nothing is truly hurt, may I be the first to suggest a strategically placed piece or black electical tape to cover the light on your dash? :X Or remove the bulb.

That's a good buy! Just to be sure, were they the JGC V8 models? Somebody should jump on them. They offer a very cheap and easy to install lift. I've been running them for almost 2 years now, and they're great.

That's bullsh*t. I'd get in their face until they can give an answer as to what they're charging you for. Any one of us can pull a code on these older Pathy's, but so many shops out there act like they're holding golden knowledge. Sure, they MAY be able to pinpoint an issue... maybe, maybe not. Its only your money anyways. If I decide to take it in, I generally go in telling THEM what the problem is or at least what I think it is, what the code is, fix it and don't try and corner me into 15 other things that don't matter or have nothing to do with the problem. Wait, on 2nd exam, you swapped to a 3.8 didn't you? If so, sorry for the rant, that was aimed at the stock engine and such.

I don't know the thread size, but take the bolts with you when you're shopping, and somebody should be able to help you size them.

The dealer is always gonna be expensive, but sometimes for some random hard-to-find parts, you have to do it. I'd suggest thoroughly exhausting your options at junkyards first though. Plus you'll learn more taking the part off of the donor vehicle, and possibly some tricks or "what not to do" situations on the junk truck before you go and start working on yours. As for your parts... door panels will probably have to come from a junkyard or parts truck, while panels, bumpers and lights can be found from many sources. Beware many of the bumpers and lights you find for cheap, say on eBay, etc. I've got an aftermarket chrome replacement bumper after a fender bender 2 years ago, and it was already rusting inside of 1 year. And I'm in WA where they don't use salt, and rust isn't usually an issue. Sooo... be aware of those "super" deals.

Yeah, heli-coils are great and very strong. I've had one in one of my bolts holes for the drivers side upper control arm since the morons at Les Schwab stripped it during an alignment 2 years ago. Many miles, much bashing, and some air time and its still strong as ever after 3 more alignments, replacing the UCA's, etc. The bottom line: done properly, strength won't be a worry.

That actually is what I covered my sub box with. It matches the stock grey in mine fairly well. Its pretty durable and high quality stuff, and you could cover the whole back end pretty cheap.

sly What he said /\

Why remove the carpet anyways? You can shampoo it at many car washes and cover it if you anticipate dirty cargo. If its already thrashed and dirty... well, then, cover whatever you put back there so you don't get IT dirty. Point being, if you want to use it as a truck, don't be afraid to get it dirty like a truck. :allclean:

But wow he's good /\