Mr. Pickles

Yeah Luker, I originally greased the swaybar bushings, but that was like a year ago since install. I kept it cause its also my daily driver and I put some miles on her in all conditions. Might as well pull it and check since that's free, so it couldn't hurt. MZ... um... that's pretty much what I'm hoping to avoid, thank you. Guess its time to take a long weekend and do all the rest of the odds and ends I've been putting off. Of course, I was already planning on using my next long weekend for the Lock Right install. Sonova.... whattya do...

Kinda what I was thinking. If that's your cup 'o tea, the chrome/stainless/etc. look mesh stuff, I saw some at a local ricer shop a while back. I was only buying lights there, I swear!!! I'd check out the suppliers of our friends from ricer land.

Wow, that pretty much answers it. Kinda what I was expecting too though.

That shield is quite important if you play in the dirt or mud, and quite expensive. It keeps dirt and water out of an off of your engine. If you still have what is left, try buying a cargo area cover, rubber mat, etc. and tracing the old one onto the new material to make a new one. I did so, adding for a 3" body lift, and it cost less than $10 vs. 5 or 6 X's that.

Should be do-able, as Jim did it with his ARB bumper. He had a buddy who was into welding do a custom mount, but it can be done.

Nice Luker. Does one of those aux tanks that you can fill with a home air compressor compare to a CO2 tank like yours? Walmart had like a 5 gallon tank for $19 or so. Ya think that would fill 4 (or more) tires? Does CO2 compress better than regular air or something? If its anything close, that might be nice to use then be able to fill at home. But if it were that easy, I suppose everybody would be doing it...

I installed new upper ball with the UCA swap last summer. I have zerk fittings in the UCA's and ball joints and have greased them a few times. I've also replaced the sway bar bushings and link with the Energy Suspension poly kit (greased), and I don't appear to have slop in the steering components other than maybe a worn center link I think. I've gone over everything I can think of, lifting the font up on stands, taking off the wheels, and checking most everything I can think of. I've also checked bolts and mounting points for the UCA and spindle, etc. I also backed my torsion bars off a bit recently to try and relieve some stress, and lowered the front end about a half inch or so. Oh, and the shocks are new- Rancho 5000's. Checked and tightened the mounts for those as well. The reason for all of this is an intermittent squeak I've had from the front driver's suspension. Pretty loud, like a metal on metal, but with no sloppy motions or anything visiblly wrong that I've found. It happens occasionally while driving on bumpy roads, but is mainly amplified by being under moderate to heavy throttle or going up hill, or slightly off-camber spots like cresting a hill at an angle. Basically places where the suspension is at or close to full downward droop. So one of the last things I've thought of is maybe the lower ball joint. Has anybody killed theirs before, or has anybody had something like this? If its the BJ, no biggie cause I have a brand new set sitting in the garage. Just wondering. I've also got a strut/compression rod poly bushing set I've been meaning to install, so this might be motivation. If anything, I'll finally have a fully new front suspension by the time I'm done.

Nothing to it, except finding one. My hinges broke= rear glass just about falls out. Stupid plastic design. Couldn't find them anywhere in the local JY's, ended up having to get kicked in the groin by the dealer and pay like $80. They only sold it with the deflector as a whole, and mine old one was pretty beat up anyways, but MAN. pssd

Ouch, inflation sucks. I paid like $140 all together for mine from Rough Country last summer. Inflation is a bieotch, huh?

Yeah, if the spindle is already there, you're golden. Make sure its set up right though. The Haynes manual gives specs for the spacing of the spindle inside the UCA, basically how far it should stick out either side. But anyways, with that and new balljoints (or carefully separating the old ones), it should be a straight forward swap. Then yes, if you value your tires, you'll need an alignment.

I tried doing a junkyard removal for my old Cutlass back in college. What a PITA that was, the junkyard guy was helping me and after we broke 2, I said screw it. Have you looked into the cost of buying new glass if you can, or having it done altogether?

Maybe the 2 relay locations are from different install. Say he had a set or 2 up top originally, then went back and added more and the additional relays, choosing to put them inside this time. Who knows why people do what they do...

Just a thought, but if its very bright and blue and very visible from outside, you do run the risk of getting pulled over. I know, it sounds retarded, but I've talked to people who have been stopped for various colored LED and neon interior toys.

Right on Rami. At least you can feel good about a really good "stuck" since that Yota couldn't do it either. That's a pretty sweet trail truck he has. Now maybe next time you'll let the Ranger go first and get stuck.

Oh, I forgot "places." Obviously eBay as you've been doing, 4wheelparts.com, summitracing.com, local truck & car shops, etc. etc. etc.

A wiper, at 11:45 at night on our 26th straight day of rain in the Seattle area, no less.

Um, no chrome. That bit to the RIGHT of the grey nut thing is black rubber, shiny because of the rain pouring on my head while I snapped the pic. I can assure you that its quite soft and rubbery.

Ah, that works. Cali born, west coast raised in general. We've heard about this thing called deep freeze. Something about what happens when those meat packing folks in the mid-west pack up our dinner, right?

Here you go. Yes, the black wedge shaped piece is rubber.

I'll 2nd Statikuz. ProComps are pretty great. I've got a set of PIAA 40's on my roof I bought like 1 1/2 years ago for like $50, normally like 3X's that. Then a few months ago I bought 4 ProComp 100 watt driving lights from a guy on eBay for like $65 for all of them. Even new, they're only like $25 each. I've got 1 set on my grill guard for now, with the other waiting for install. You could signal aliens with them if you wanted too. I have them aimed at the street about 30 ft in front of the Pathy cause they are far too bright for the road. They cut through even pea soup fog like a knife cause they're just so ridiculously bright. They actually brighter than the PIAA's, although that could be expected since those are only 55 watt which is a pretty standard fog and driving light wattage. Still, if they're wired properly, 2 of them would be more than enough up on the roof. Of course, I'm gonna move the PIAA's down and put all 4 up top, just 'cause. As for mounting, I built a basic basket rack to mount to my Yakima system when I'm not using it for skis. There are many companies out there selling cargo/safari/basket racks if you're not into building yourself, you you could go the direction of a light bar (old Nissan, home made or generic aftermarket kit) or installing a stock rack or aftermarket version available from companies like JC Whitney. Many many options are to be had.

I feel ya. I put my old Pilot's in back under my bumper as back-ups about a year ago. I previously used them to replace the factory bumper fogs in front. What passes as OK up front along with the headlights doesn't suffice in back with little more than the stock back-up lights. Add to that I have limo tint all the way around, and I moved farther into the suburbs, almost to the woods. That means pitch black backing into the driveway at night (cause I'd rather back in while I'm fresh at night then back out half asleep in the dark in the morning). That dual system would probably be ideal wired to both work in parallel. You'd have the wide and short range light from the fogs along with the long range beam of the driving lights. Gimme gimme!!!

Does this help (overall pic) or do you need one spot really up close?

Yep, its tostada here too. Um, I don't think a 4cyl was an 89 option anyways, right?

Ouch. Good luck Rami!!! I would have bundled up and spent the night in back, just in case. Hope all is well, and you can find a tank to pull you out in the morning! :Magic:

Mine also has a fuse as stock wiring, with the fuse near the battery. But they should be a separate circuit from the headlights, as the factory fogs use power from the low beam headlight circuit, going through the switch, then on to power the relay. I rewired to have the parking lights do the same, and there was no problem. As for the headlights, check that box on the fenderwell as has been said.