Mr. Pickles

I'd bet a Yakima rack set-up with towers and cross bars could handle a far larger/heavy capacity than the stock ones. I've got the Yakima set-up, with a home-made basket that I adapted loosly from Mookie's design. I've put storage containers, coolers, etc. up there, and Mookie said he used to keep his spare on his. If I remember right, the factory racks have a pretty low recommended weight limit. As far as the fairings, I bet people just put on a Yakima or Thule one and applied a Nissan sticker or something.

I didn't drop the radiator either, just removed that bottom portion of the shroud as well. It just snaps into place, and comes out easy. I didn't have to buy new hoses either. Actually, I tried. I went to Napa, and the parts guy and I spent a fair amount of time with various books and pulling random hoses that looked close, but we couldn't find the right match. Back to the drawing board. With a little twisting and rearranging, the old ones work. The top was just a matter of twisting, or I might have flipped it, I don't remember. The bottom was close, but was too long and slightly kinked. So I just cut off about 1/2-1" or so and reinstalled. All is well a year later. I don't know about the brake lines, as I just followed the kit instructions and pulled the lines from the plastic clips, and let the coiled portions of the hard lines stretch like the kit says. So, no new parts here. But braided lines probably wouldn't be a bad idea anyways.

That's icing on the cake, so to speak. I think its a good omen to have the maiden voyage end up helping somebody out in similar circumstances that wrecked the truck in the first place. Good luck!

Good score man. I must have annoyed the guy taking my order. It was probably a Friday, and I was being cheap, so he had fun with me. Good luck on the install, it should be relatively straight forward.

Excellent call Slick!

Same here, and I've lived with it for a year now. The shifter mechanically moves just fine, but its the boot that is the issue for me. Since the shifter is 3" lower now, the boot kinda crunches down and deforms. When you try to go to 4 low, especially when its cold out and the rubber is stiff, it can be tough to get it in. I was thinking of a Hardbody shifter swap, but am starting to think of maybe trying one of those aftermarket leather boot replacement things instead. I kinda like it being farther down on the floor out of the way till I need it.

Fair 'nuff. Guess I'll do that if/when the other bulbs burn out.

Close. I went round and round on the CL boards for that car, and to make it work right required a particular resistor thingy that you'd wire in-line at the lights so the car would see the load in the circuit. Or at least that's what a ton of guys claimed. The cheapest I could find was like $30, vs. $7 for the LED's now sitting in a drawer in the garage and the chromed 1156 bulbs that replaced them for another $8 or so. Close 'nuff.

Yes, thanks for the follow-up! I forgot about this thread. I've swapped out to all new Energy Suspension bushings throughout piece by piece since last summer. The suspension performance is night-and-day better, and the truck drives nice and solid, more like a sports car than a marshmallow. The only issue is I picked up a seriously annoying squeak along the way. I'm pretty sure its the driver's side UCA. Mainly its while in off-camber situations, even on the street cresting a hill at an angle, or pretty much any situation while under throttle where the truck leans back. So far I've heavily greased the UCA's through the zerks repeatedly, topped off the ball joints too (new 6 months ago), pulled and re-lubed all of the sway bar bushings, backed the torsion bars off a half inch of lift or so just in case, yada yada. Driving me freakin nuts. I'll have to order some better grease and give it a shot. Thanks again!

Ah, yeah, I'm not suprised that the over-the-counter ones are not that hot and overpriced. PIAA makes some that aren't that much more expensive than that, and I bet they'd be good. I forgot to mention that the one's I've bought were on eBay. I found this guy in Hong Kong that sells and ships them for stupidly cheap, like $3 shipped for a pair of the wedge bulbs, and I think $8 for the pair of amber turn signals. Those amber ones have like 5+ LED's on each. The only problem is, the turn signal circuit didn't like the low power draw of the LED's and thought a bulb was burned out, so they'd flash really quick, which for some reason the ricers try to do on purpose. There are kits out there do make your blinkers flash quick. I ended up swapping them for some amber regular bulbs with a chrome finish. The LED's are quite bright though, and for that price I though "what the hell", gotta give it a try. The whole point of the LED's was I switched to clear light housings on the Acura and ditched the stock amber stuff, so amber bulbs looked dumb. Holy post jack! I just wrote a mini-novel, sorry. Moral of the story: check eBay.

There are many types to choose from. I don't have the brake lights, but have LED parking/marker lights and turn signals on our Acura. They're very bright and "crisp" looking, brighter than regular bulbs. Post up if you buy some, as I've been thinking about it since I've never really been impressed with the Pathy's brake light brightness. Too many near-miss times where I've almost been rear-ended.

The owner should sooo get a matching pink helmet to wear around town.

I pulled a stock stabilizer from a Hardbody in a junkyard. It mounts with 2 bolts (I think) to the frame near (but not at) the steering box, if I remember correct. The other end is just that bolt on the center link. Don't know the thread size, but yes, its a very easy couple minute install.

2 whites here

And here's what you asked for in the first place, a pic of 3+3+31's.

The body lift isn't that big of a deal. I did it alone, and it went ok mostly. Nobody seems to have run into the relatively minor issues I did. The kit does come with bumper brackets, but they are kinda cheesy and a PITA to install. Not the end of the world though, and an extra set of hands there would help (doing it alone, holding the bumper while installing the brackets and bolts with the other hand, is not recommended if you value your sanity).

Yeah, you have to buy the whole thing. Don't worry, it isn't too expensive. I think I paid like $20 shipped for one a few years ago. There are several websites that sell them, as well as eBay.

I'd 2nd doing the minimum to get it passed now. Then you can decide in your free time whether you really want to go forward with the lift, or leave it as it is.

Yep, our other car is an Acura CL. Its a 2.2 4cyl VTEC, so you have to wind it up a bit to get all the gerbils pulling at once, and its still a purring kitten compared to the Pathy. Add a Flowmaster and things will get even louder, but sweeter.

Dude, there is tons of info. in here to be had. Try searching for something like "body+lift+install", etc. Statikuz, 88Path and I have posted a fair amount alone, along with everybody. Also check out this thread. -study-

I don't think it was even its own topic, just posted in a reply somewhere related to new models and concepts. That could be a pretty fun turret/cockpit though. Just throw in a few missles and maybe some photon torpedos.

I think I just soiled myself.

Yeah, that was posted recently. Kinda ridiculous, but also kinda cool. Weird for sure.

I don't think a body or susp lift should make much of a difference. The motor is mounted to the transmission and frame, which are not disturbed when you lift the body off or lift the suspension.

I agree with taking it to the same shop with your story. Worst case(usually my luck), they'll say no, which is risky for them due to word of mouth and reputation. Best case, they'll still take care of it, although I doubt it. But since you're officially outside the warranty but obviously have had issues, maybe they'll be willing to work something out with you.