Rebelord

Those spring coil spacers, I have in my stock springs right now. Gave me about 1" to reduce the sag I had. Working well. If you need Karmann I can take a pic of how I installed them to work out the best.

Rear springs are easy to do. Heck, you even have to remove the rear springs to install those rubber ones. I'm just saying, if your going to spend that much, might as well get exactly what you want instead of same cost and bandaid it. Yes, with just the IronMan rear springs your gonna rack like crazy. Another option is to buy stock springs for a pre facelift Pathfinder. As they had higher rate, or at least better rated springs than facelift ones and put those in. Moog has them. (My IronMans to my door was; 277)

Vid of Hella Horns, neow!

If you cant get any soonish. Then super gluing two pennies together then onto the pedal assembly works too. Thats how both of mine are currently!

Then something else happened at the same time. Check all your fuses in the engine compartment and cab. <- Where I would start. The the basics, spark, fuel air.

Those wonderful coolant and other hoses and vacumn lines the live on the backside. Possibly thermostat also and its short hoses.

Karmann: The price of those rubber spring bags are MORE than the cost of IronMan rear springs. Or even stock replacements. Which you need new springs. For whatever reason, the facelift Pathfinders springs tend to sag a lot worse than pre facelift ones. Camel4x4.com Official distributor of IronMan springs in the USA. Link Rears: http://store.camel4x4.com/product/NISS035B.html He has a set in stock right now.

It will show a knock sensor code if you have a O2 code. But the others, just diagnose one by one.

Pull the plugs and turn it over by hand with a socket and breaker bar. You should be able to tell if something is amiss. If it was just the water pump and pulley. That shouldnt have any effect on your TB. But, if you havent changed the TB in a while. While you are in there might as well change it.

Ok. Get the blog up and I can help share it on some of the other Pathfinder Forums, or toss you the links at least so its coming from you directly.

Wack it good with a rubber mallet from the front and sides a few times to try to knock it loose. *Tip* When putting it back together, put a dab of anti seize on those pins. Any any other parts where dissimilar metal touches with no gasket. Also, while your knee deep in there. Replace your Fuel Pressure Regulator, and all those fun lil vacuum lines and coolant hoses that live under the intake and on the back side of the engine. Knock sensor too, your there.

I've ordered stuff from Fleurys. Shipping is higher because he is in Canada. But, I tell you. I live in Miami. Every time I've ordered, its here in 2-3 days. I think once it may have been 4. Which is darn fast considering we are at complete opposites geographical wise. Edit: Maybe not opposites so much, but close to 1700 miles away.

Go in there and tell them you want recalls taken care of. Anything else comes up to call for authorization

Is the strut rot bad?

Nice. Good set of tires makes a world of difference.

Throw it up on jack stands, get a ratchet and start checking stuff.

Did you follow the FSM for tightening the front bearings? I dont know the torques off hand. But its something like; tight, spin few times, back off. Tight, spin back off. Lightly tighten. Done. The final torque is basically finger tight IMO. But read the FSM it has exact procedures and torques. If your front bearings are too tight. That can cause issues.

Take your hub off and inspect the wheel bearings. Fairly easy to do. Something is amiss though. Check everything. Could be a stick caliper, slider etc. Once diagnosed, if they will swap your rotors, do it. Possibly pads too if they have gotten hot enough often enough.

http://www.4x4design.com/Pathfinder_R50_96-04.html Scroll down to Control Crossarm Link

Not sure if Steev posted on some of the other Pathfinder forums. Hopefully this can take steam soon.

My 3.3 its on drivers side right above the center cross-member and steering rack. Behind the plastic air dam/wanna-be skid plate.

Most of your questions have been answered already. I run 31" tires right now. Lifts available: Old Man Emu (Firmer than stock; ~1.75" lift), Iron Man (Stock type ride; ~1.5" lift), AC Springs (Very firm ride; 2" lift). Krypton Subframe drop. Can use stock springs for stock ride, or combo with lift springs. Aftermarket support? Limited, but the community is very supportive of homemade modifications and ideas. The R50 as a whole? Nissan built these things pretty tough. 33 spline from transfer case all the way to rear tires, front hubs are 28 spline. Still very tough. 3.3L engine is tough and takes a beating. 3.5L is just as tough but has much more power. There is a lot more, just check out the threads and stickies.

Have you downloaded the FSM yet? There is a sticky for it at the top of this sub forum.

Find another exhaust shop if he only insists on upselling you. No point in spending more money than needed. But if you do have it all re done. Try to find a good shop that has a mandrel bender. Crimp bends are just awful IMO.