Remus92

Jealous!!!

That's a great price! Welcome! Wish i could help you on your key fob questions but my 96 fobs are aftermarket (but does have remote start) so i don't think i can help!

Potentially the gearing. Just make sure your gears and the donor gear ratios are the same. If they are, you are good to go. If not, then you'll want the front diff from the 97 as well. Check the tag that's on the firewall in the engine bay. 4.63:1 and 4.3ish:1 were the options.

You can try a junkyard one! Of it hasn't been stripped usually those and the maf are the first things to get ripped out. Nissan has them. Last one i bought was 440 though. I think the cheapest you can get it from Nissan will be through Courtesy Nissan. They have a pretty solid online parts store. I tried ones from rock auto and various brands. The best one lasted 6 months. I got the nissan part over a year ago and haven't had any issues since.

Sounds like it to me. The only ignition coil you have is also a part of that distributor. I guess i don't know spec for resistance of the coil but having messed with my distributor as much as i have most ignition issues i start by blaming that damn thing. If you have a known good one to test with you would know for sure. If you end up buying one... Do not be cheap! It will not function very long. The oem Nissan parts are better (and more expensive) in this case.

Hahaha the best kind of justice! Especially once he gets towed and ticketed for parking in the street!

Looks great Mjotrainbrain!!!

No those have switched over to one coil per.

What do your suspension parts, bushings, tie rods etc look like? Any damage? That's probably what i would look at next if the brake components look ok.

Did he look at the inside pad also or just the outer pad? Mine always seem to wear faster on the inner pad. When it feels like a rougher road with hard breaking is it a shimmy through the wheel? A pulsing through the break pedal? Any nasty noises?

You might try another image hosting site. Photobucket has been attempting to make people pay for the same service we used to get for free. And yes they are telling you to put them in the bottom holes. But fleurys mentioned if you still don't have enough adjustment you can put a second set in the top side to give you a little more movement. And definitely take it to a shop other than Sears/Wal-Mart etc. Go to a reputable shop in your area that does alignments and they should be able to align it correctly. Just be sure they know you have camber bolts in there when they start.

That was alsoin 2012... He may not be on here anymore. You could've seen them if photobucket wasn't being a douche!

Yeah guys! The ginger kid! Lol jk... Couldn't resist!

My favorite is the pictures from closer... Trying to subtly show he isn't! Hahaha

Have you tested your battery?

If i remember right from running microphone wires in them. They just snap in. You should be able to start at the top and pull them off.

Oooh the rear seat headrests? That is a score!!!! Those always go missing!

No problem! I probably order way too much from rockauto... But considering the savings from replacing my shocks and struts through them vs buying from oreillys... And other projects. It's usually the first place i look. Exactly! The only thing i know for sure is that i don't know much!

Bunchie. The core charge is a fee you pay up front that is refunded when you send them your old part back. I don't like messing with core charges unless I'm doing business with a store in town. I have taken more expensive parts and parts with small core charges from rock auto just so i wouldn't have to send them something back. Once you receive the new part you can get instructions on where to send the core. Then you ship it and give them tracking info. The remans are an old shell that's been cleaned up and had new guts put into it. The new ones are just that new.

I didn't like paying that much... But i had one that failed in 2500 miles and others that didn't work from the get go... Not to mention plugs, intake leaks, various other sensors, and on and on before that stupid code went away... I still dread CELs because it might be that number that comes up!!! Still have a lean code that pops up ever so often but that's from another part.

I was literally nodding and saying yep sounds about right!!! Took me so long to finally get my 0300 to go away... And that included 3 distributors.... Ending with a Nissan one for 440!

Cortland. Any more. I never use punch welds to lift, they always seem to crumble or bend when i try. I use the rear safety stands ( B ) all the time. They are very sturdy and in my experience may lift a lot from the side but are only lifting the rear. There is a lot of weight in front of those points that stays planted. I will use those spots for Jack stands depending on what I'm doing. And if you are worried about rolling... Chock the fronts and you are good to go.

Awesome photos!!!

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1996_Pathfinder/ I have this bookmarked for my 96. You can go into the parent directory to get your year. Great resource that's up on nicoclub. This is the fsm he's talking about.