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Remus92

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Everything posted by Remus92

  1. Yes. I may have had 2 stubborn ones and given the location i couldn't get enough force to just break the heads off. Certainly at least 1 on each side. I used a long socket extension and just bent them enough to gain access to the bolts. A small pry bar probably would work better. The replacements didn't have the spots to attach them again so i was not worried about damaging the shields.
  2. I assumed those are what he's talking... If it's just one bolt keeping the heat sheild on. Do what i did and bend that sob out of the way to get your access to the actual bolts to remove the part. Of the catalyst is already breaking down it will just continue to do so. Might as well replace it
  3. That's a great price! Welcome! Wish i could help you on your key fob questions but my 96 fobs are aftermarket (but does have remote start) so i don't think i can help!
  4. Potentially the gearing. Just make sure your gears and the donor gear ratios are the same. If they are, you are good to go. If not, then you'll want the front diff from the 97 as well. Check the tag that's on the firewall in the engine bay. 4.63:1 and 4.3ish:1 were the options.
  5. You can try a junkyard one! Of it hasn't been stripped usually those and the maf are the first things to get ripped out. Nissan has them. Last one i bought was 440 though. I think the cheapest you can get it from Nissan will be through Courtesy Nissan. They have a pretty solid online parts store. I tried ones from rock auto and various brands. The best one lasted 6 months. I got the nissan part over a year ago and haven't had any issues since.
  6. Sounds like it to me. The only ignition coil you have is also a part of that distributor. I guess i don't know spec for resistance of the coil but having messed with my distributor as much as i have most ignition issues i start by blaming that damn thing. If you have a known good one to test with you would know for sure. If you end up buying one... Do not be cheap! It will not function very long. The oem Nissan parts are better (and more expensive) in this case.
  7. Go ahead! He hasn't opened the voting yet! It's up to you which picture you want! Edit:it looks locked now... But i think you should still
  8. Hahaha the best kind of justice! Especially once he gets towed and ticketed for parking in the street!
  9. Thanks redpath! We appreciate what you do!!!
  10. No those have switched over to one coil per.
  11. What do your suspension parts, bushings, tie rods etc look like? Any damage? That's probably what i would look at next if the brake components look ok.
  12. Did he look at the inside pad also or just the outer pad? Mine always seem to wear faster on the inner pad. When it feels like a rougher road with hard breaking is it a shimmy through the wheel? A pulsing through the break pedal? Any nasty noises?
  13. You might try another image hosting site. Photobucket has been attempting to make people pay for the same service we used to get for free. And yes they are telling you to put them in the bottom holes. But fleurys mentioned if you still don't have enough adjustment you can put a second set in the top side to give you a little more movement. And definitely take it to a shop other than Sears/Wal-Mart etc. Go to a reputable shop in your area that does alignments and they should be able to align it correctly. Just be sure they know you have camber bolts in there when they start.
  14. That was alsoin 2012... He may not be on here anymore. You could've seen them if photobucket wasn't being a douche!
  15. Yeah guys! The ginger kid! Lol jk... Couldn't resist!
  16. My favorite is the pictures from closer... Trying to subtly show he isn't! Hahaha
  17. If i remember right from running microphone wires in them. They just snap in. You should be able to start at the top and pull them off.
  18. Oooh the rear seat headrests? That is a score!!!! Those always go missing!
  19. No problem! I probably order way too much from rockauto... But considering the savings from replacing my shocks and struts through them vs buying from oreillys... And other projects. It's usually the first place i look. Exactly! The only thing i know for sure is that i don't know much!
  20. Bunchie. The core charge is a fee you pay up front that is refunded when you send them your old part back. I don't like messing with core charges unless I'm doing business with a store in town. I have taken more expensive parts and parts with small core charges from rock auto just so i wouldn't have to send them something back. Once you receive the new part you can get instructions on where to send the core. Then you ship it and give them tracking info. The remans are an old shell that's been cleaned up and had new guts put into it. The new ones are just that new.
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