Remus92

Remus92

You can. You will top out those oem shocks easier while flexing. So be careful if you go offroading frequently. Since you have to disassemble struts to install the spring you might consider buying some parts now and waiting to install until you can buy the rest. You would only have to do the work 1 time. On my 96. I'm still at stock height with the stock 15 inch wheels and can run 31×10.50s with no issues. From scouring threads before buying most people seem to do ok on that size. Just make sure they won't rub on your struts. I just looked at how much room i had before this tire size and estimated how much more room i would need. They fit easily. And did not rub on my fender liners or mudflaps once installed.

Damn!!! Last time i needed that off of my z i ended up having to buy an impact to get it off. So at least when i mess with my timing belt in 5k miles I've got some impacts i can use to knock it off without my standard jerry-rigging. Similar to what you had to do with the breaker bar... You ever get to the brakes? Lol

As long as they never go into auto you will be ok. Have you checked eBay fo rthe headlight. Occasionally you can find good deals. You just have to wait and wade through a bunch of garbage posts.

If you are after NPORA stickers message http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/user/5125-fleurys/ Fleurys. He also has some skid plates and other pathfinder specific goodies.

Wow. Did they actually do any of the work you paid them to?

Wtf??? Why plastic? Going to go to Nissan directly? And hopefully get a part that is worth the money!

@rchuish Now you said rear control arms. Do you mean the trailing arm bushings? Those have an upper and a lower bar on both sides. To completely fix your wobble those are typically the culprits and both uppers and lowers need to be replaced. Edit: before i replaced mine, i would get that wobble during everytime you are experiencing and when i would let off the accelerator and immediately get back on it. Replaced all 8 of those bushings completely fixed the issue.

That sounds horrible! I'm so glad i live in a state without yearly testing!!!! I would just tell you to move. But we all know that isn't ever a viable solution.

Me. Just the cheap-o versions. Run well and cost me around 2.50 a pop.

Ngk. They always seem to work the best in Nissans.

Unless yours is special. Your hubs are stuck. But they are stuck in always engaged because that is how they came from the factory. I agree with cuong start with the electrical system then move forward.

Honestly with how similar the pattern is you may see very little difference between them. The generals are cheaper usually. Have you looked up the wear rating for each of them yet? Depending on that, one may last you longer than the other. You will probably have more road noise vs your destinations. And even though the destinations may not look like much i have always had a good experience in the mud and snow with them. My mom had a set of the bfg's on an s10 but the 4wd didn't work so i can't say how good they actually were... I know they did not like ice. But they were decent in the snow and fairly good in mud. If she doesn't want you cutting.... Better go with a size that you won't have too... I know those 30.5 inch tires will fit with no problems! Id probably go for the same size your running now.

They are very easy to replace. I've bought them off of rock auto before and had good luck.

Mehh, no big loss.

Id get a sticker that looks like a yeti... Rather than have people think you like expensive coolers

Well a cat does sit right below the master cylinder. The heat may be boiling or otherwise affecting the brake fluid. And the heat on the legs... If its over heating absolutely! It can only release so much heat so fast going up through the engine bay. Out the sides of the vehicle would happen too. What was the code?

Just 1 filter per oil change is fine. I go hand tight going on. Removing i do use wrenches just to aid in removal. My favorite is the type that releases when turning clockwise and cranks down on the filter when turning counter clockwise.

It almost sounds like the exhaust manifold leaking (diesel-esc sound) with injectors ticking as well. As mentioned above definitely check the timing chain tensioner. Even regardless of what the sound ends up being.

Can you record the sound? The 2 vg30's I've owned both ticked from the injectors but had zero issues from them. It wasnt terribly loud but noticeable. Edit: you did record it... I need to pay more attention....

Looks great! How was the transition to going up instead of down?

It honestly wasn't too bad to fix roadside... Even in the nasty heat we had today. And it could have been way worse, but i had slowed down for the corner where the lug nuts left all let loose. It didn't get very squirrelly. It is a joke with me and my family that these damn pathfinders are trying to kill me... Rolling my first and getting pinned under this one. I just tell them I'm crush resistant. They like that better than invincible! Just have to find a wheel and it will be back to normal. Also going to install another new distributor tomorrow. Hopefully that one will last longer!

So heading home from work. I lost some lug nuts... And subsequently a friggin wheel... The last time i rotated was around 2k miles ago... Probably should have retorqued i guess. So it broke one stud and bent several others and knocked the drum loose as i came skidding to a stop. Called my dad and got a ride to the parts store to buy new nuts and studs. We ended up fixing it on a gravel road as there was one directly across where i came grinding to a halt. I said f this to fixing it on the busy road i was on. I ended up using the lsd and throwing it in 4hi to drag the ass across the road and onto the less busy gravel road. Got the brakes back together, new studs installed, and the spare on. Yeah this whole stupid ordeal messed up my aluminium wheel a little.... I will end up having my good tire put on the spare until i find a new wheel.... As i do not trust the tire that is my spare... So, i will probably will call some junk yards to see my options. But if anyone has the 15inch 6 spoke aluminium wheels from the early r50s that they want to get rid of let me know. I will probably make a post in the wtb section later. Psa retorque within 200 miles. I'm going to have to make a build thread for all the stuff that breaks... I keep fixing them though lol

That's my guess too. Retighten things. See if you can push or shake on the vehicle to get the noise to occur to help you narrow it down.

The pictures are gone so I'm adding some since I replaced my thermostat today. I took these as I was putting it back together so I didn't take as many pictures as I probably should have. It took me less than 2 hours and that is with my Grandpa stopping by to see what I was up to. I also waited to refill the coolant as the silicone I used had a recommended cure time. fyi yours may or may not be pre-equipped with the mud splashed engine bay. So, follow the directions above. Remove the splash guard and drain the coolant, a 5 gallon bucket slid perfectly under my stock height rig. I found it easy to start in the engine bay by removing the upper radiator hose, the elbow of the intake and the radiator shroud. It gave me a ton of room and access to all of the bolts. Next remove the guard over the belt on the pulley assembly. Not required but it gave me slightly more room to move in there. (Didn't get a picture of this back on before everything else was in the way.) Loosen the top pulley and slide the belt off and let it droop down out of the way. Remember the top bolt tightens and loosens the belt tension while the bolt on the pulley allows the pulley to slide. Loosen both. Next remove the bolt for the AC line hanger. Then 3 bolts will remove this plate with the pulley on it. Now you are free to get this hose off of the inlet that houses the thermostat. Once that is removed. Undo the 3 bolts holding the inlet in place and pop it off. I had to lightly tap it to get the old silicone to pop free. Now you can remove the thermostat, clean up the 2 sides, and install a new thermostat with a fresh silicone bead. Note the tab on the old thermostat is up and there are knobs on both sides of the housing that are both on the top side as well. Reinstall everything in the reverse order and refill.