bushnut

one question Kyle, what was the road condition when this braking issue started? On dry pavement the ABS shouldn't be engaging unless you are standing on the pedal. My experience with the ABS is that when there is limited traction (ice or hard packed snow) it engages. in those conditions I need to slow down and brake sooner. Generally I feel that if the ABS has engaged then I've been driving to fast for the available traction. Are you using winter tires? they greatly improve stopping distances on slippery roads. M+S tires are not winter tires, they don't have enough sipping and are usually a harder rubber.

I had this mental image of someone with a leg thrown over the bike kicking it again and again and again, like some robot with this look of determination.

correction noted sir. 5 hours? if thats not a demonstration of single minded determination I don't know what is!

when a vehicle doesn't start it is one of 3 reasons..no gas, no air or no spark. this is obviously a no spark issue. does it turn over? could be a starter issue or starter solenoid. is it auto or manual transmission? I would begin with fuses. and go from there.

could be you have a leaky filler pipe. seems to be common or more costly the top of the gas tank is rusting out.

wish I had video. So yesterday we got 12-15cm (4-6inches) of snow. I live on a dead end street and some dude in a mini van tried turning around and got bellied up in the snow (no winter tires) Pushing was not an answer. I was just leaving for work so I backed up close and got out my kinetic strap....wouldn't you know....no rear tow loops or anything on the mini van. They just don't design cars for Canada any more. I ended up looping the strap in a girth hitch to the rear axle and then to the hitch mounted recovery point on my truck. just a little tug and he popped right out.

boated station wagons or decrepit senor suvs there is no accounting for taste.

brake pad rotor contact is totally normal. just a factor of disk brakes. are the CV toast? I'd go OEM if possible. or just replace the boots.

the strut part you are looking for is called a strut bearing or commonly called a "Top Hat" I've got the same issues as you with regards to bushing issues. I'm going to go with the poly split design ones from 4x4 parts and take 2 days replacing everything. It might be more in my time invested but I'll save a boat load of labour cost.

longer is always better!

are your tail lights working? they run off the same 10a fuse. fuse box on the right (passenger) side under the hood.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUaM2tagIX4 part 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvVdSkl6HMs

at certain idle speeds and sometimes over bumps my tailpipe bangs against my trailer hitch as it goes up and over the rear diff. also the bushing in Pic 2 doesn't look so hot.

ordering from the US means extra shipping as well as 7% duty.

just found on WWW.autopartsway.ca >Lower lateral link polyurethane OEM quality bushing for $16.87 each. I assume this doesn't include hardware. Is this the same as the non split version 4x4parts sells? if so why the price difference?

So the last few days since hunting I've been having a "clacking" sound coming out of the rear end whenever I go over certain size bumps. Its been cold so I thought maybe a frozen shock but they are brand new bilstein 5150s. I've gone over all the loose items in the trunk and removed them. and still the sound continues. This evening I checked all the torques on my wheels and shocks all good. However when I rock the drivers side rear wheel. I can rock the axle forward and back. and the drive shaft rocks up and down. This can't be good? I can't remember if it did this before. The sound feels like it's coming out of the left rear side but I can't be sure. I can see a little movement in the passenger side lower control arm bushing but thats about it. should i replace the bushings or the whole Control arm?

because up here in da Nort and the road salt thing and with the nut and the mast being two dis-similar metals through galvanic action they seize together.

Mostly you'll brake it off. Thats what I had to do with 2 of them while replacing the right fender. I ended up mounting it lower down in the fender and making a rubber grommet to fill in the hole. you can kinda see it in this photo

mine does it too. so I just let it Idle in D or R for a minute or two. then I drive away, this seems to warm up the tranny a little.

mine always shifts hard in the cold(,-15C and colder) though it hasn't been that cold yet. I let mine warm up for 2-4 minutes (command start is great!) then when I get in with my foot on the brake I'll shift into D or R but I don't take off until the Rev counter comes back down to around 800. I do agree that you should get some Nissan "D" in there. however if there is a problem with your torque converter I'd track down a new(used) trany rather than fixing it.

count your self lucky, you've got your self a very capable off road rig there. I wouldn't be complaining if I was you.

Limited Slip Differential means that if one wheel has lost traction the other wheel will still be provided power to move the truck forward. without it the wheel without traction would spin and you won't go anywhere. here is a great video showing how it works. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jrXiZKEMOQ

you can thank Obama for the $ of tires. He placed a trade tariff on off shore produced tires to help US tire makers. On one hand it protects US jobs but now no one can afford to buy tires. I've even heard of people renting tires because they can't afford the initial buy in price. there is a great pod cast called freakanomics that talks about the whole thing.

there is a thread on this in the R50 section already man. check it out.

buying cheap / potentially damaged tires is the problem with balancing not the rims. you get what you pay for.