bushnut

I've replaced my passenger side fender. I don't think removing the fender will help with replacing the hinges.

sounds like you've answered your own question brother. no amount of roofing tar fixes rust. If you've got exhaust coming into the cabin that is dangerous. as for getting rid of it well...what do you want to build? is it a DD as well as a wheeler? if its just a bush truck I'd keep it fix it and mod the Sh** out of it. If you need it as a DD well, I might be inclined to find a younger truck in better condition.

Not everyone has the same lift on R50s. There are a few to choose from... 1.AC lift coils x4 2. AC lift coils + spacers front only or x4 3. OME lift coils x4 4. OME lift coils + spacers front only or x4 5. Iron Man lift coils x4 6. Iron Man lift coils +spacers front only or x4 7. Stock springs + spacers in various thicknesses from 4x4designs (.5 to 2in i believe) 8. Sub frame drop via Krypton Fab or home built with JEEP springs in back. 9. Any combo of lift coils and SFD with JEEP springs and spacers in rear. 10. Major surgery of a solid axle swap in the front and lifting the rear to match. Oh yah and add to that various wheel and tire size combos to also affect how high the truck looks like it is sitting. I'll have to agree that the post face lift ('00'04) do look like they have a longer "nose" and the approach angle seems shallower.

if it works great! if not you can always try again to pass safety.

I would fix and keep the old ones as spares. You never know.

I'd have just replaced the boots if the joint was still OK. not that hard and way cheeper too.

OMG another Zombie thread! RUNN!

I'd call that pretty good bro, though I have different engine than yours.

new or used axle? oem or aftermarket? that doesn't sound right. I have read somewhere here about aftermarket axles not always fitting right. what was wrong with the old one?

So how can I tell if my LSD is starting to wear? I don't think I'm having any issues yet. But how will I know?

just keep the open end pointed down. In very deep water how do you deal with the cooling fan sloshing around? or have you switched to an electric with a shut off switch?

theres a facebook version of this forum? ah crap ! I waste enough time here! lol

looks good. I like the rear mounted backup lights. I'll be doing some thing similar with my rack as soon as it's warm enough to work outside. I was looking at marine grade lights as they are waterproof and built quite well. sturdy mounts and such. they were a flood type. about $75 ea.

a couple of summers ago I borrowed my buddies Sentra to drive back home to the East Coast to see my dad. buddy was in CA and my dad was having heart troubles. I spent about $1200 in fuel, there and back (about 6000km). Last fall on my Honeymoon in the Pathfinder following mostly the same route but about 2000km more we spent about $1400. now fuel prices rise and fall but I was surprised how close they were in cost. I don't have a heavy right foot but I do remember that the sentra was gutless on the hills and I couldn't pass without pre planning. I will have to agree that the R50s milage in the city sucks but on the hwy is not to bad if you don't push it.

the "Fun Police" are everywhere.

Don't despair. I'd have a look at some of your local 4x4 clubs. Not all of them are JEEP ONLY. I'd look into the ones that encourage stock wheeling as apposed the ones that only go out with super modified rigs. Quite often you will have to meet certain vehicle requirements. Ie: up to date safety and licensing, fire extinguisher, recovery gear, etc.. more often than not you'll meet some great guys and learn from their experience. a winch can get pricy..but you can do lots with a HI LIFT and a shovel. maybe some MT tires are in your future?

you need to watch these videos. Not to sound like a jerk, but there is more to off road driving than just shifting in to 4x4 and giving it lots of right pedal. and you can still get mighty stuck even with differential lockers. getting stuck is always a learning process. you learn the limits of yourself and your vehicle. there are a few simple rules to wheel by that can keep you out of trouble.. 1. Drive as Slow as Possible and as fast as Necessary. 2. If it looks deep it probably is. 3. Never wheel alone. 4. Always have proper recovery gear on board.

try replacing the battery in the fob. sounds like you've got a bad connection some where. I'd down load the FSM (Factory service manual ) located somewhere on this site and pull up the wiring diagrams. sorry to say but you might be at it awhile chasing those demons. If your building an off road rig though I say "oh well " don't need those lights anyway.

I forgot Ontario has there speed limits set for the performance of a car built in 1938. jk

at 2500 RPM I'm only doing about 110km/h

ya it was warm today...only -16C so I took it to the DIY car wash. it'll look great for about 2 days.

washed all the salt off, at least for a few days.

once the snow comes I get about half the milage i do in summer. I chalk it up to thicker fluid in the diffs (i did switch to synthetic), the grease in the wheel bearings thickening. I know that happens on my bicycle, which is why i changed to lubra-plate ultra low temp grease. its rated from +50 to -50*c. not sure if I can use it in the trucks wheel bearings though. I'd sure like to find out because it made a HUGE difference on my bicycle. The other thing is that in cold weather even the rolling resistance of your tires increases. engines don't run as well with ultra cold air. and I too use the 4x4 system all the time. I really like the shift on the fly system.

I've got pics in my build thread of my storage platform. all my recovery/ bug out gear /tools goes underneath.dog goes on top.