bushnut

230???kms it always seems to "bog" at around 40km/h and seems sluggish. it feels like the engine is working way harder than it should for the speed I'm going.

so the time has come, I'm tired of keeping my exhaust patched up with beer cans and muffler tape. It's 14yrs old and its gotta go. the questions are.... 1. bigger diameter pipe or stay stock? (exbrit posted some interesting info on flow rates vs power though I can't remember where.) 2.why are catalytic converters in the US are almost $300 less expensive than in Canada?(rockauto $170ish vs autopartsway $495) I am pretty sure my cats are plugged as I have poor mid range power and my fuel consumption is also poor. Or could that be caused by all the holes? 3. muffler recommendations? the goal Is power and performance not volume. in fact I'd prefer something quiet. thanks guys.

I've got no flares or side molding.

appart form the fantastic amount of knowledge stored here, I really appreciate the lack of advertisement here. The Nico club on the other hand, bombards you with adds all over the screen. I find this very distracting. congrats to us for being civilized.

it helps if you've got friends. removing and re-installing struts is just no fun. follow the haynes instructions for removing struts and rear springs. as for the rear I had a friend with a forklift help as I didn't have a tall enough jack to lift the vehicle and then lower the rear axle. just watch that rear brake line as you are lowering the rear axle. it gets too short too quick. I'm sure you'll figure it out, just play safe and use wheel chocks and axle stands.

where would that info be? Door panel? that one says stock tires are 245/7016

build dates can be tricky, I have a 2000 face lift. but build date is december 99. It is supposed to be an SE but I have LSD, cruise, AC, power windows/door locks, but cloth interior, no sun roof, no adjustable or heated seats. It really doesn't matter that much for most parts.

pics please...

+1 for Fleury's spacers. If your still up for replacing springs, I've been very happy with my IronMan set up. the other alternative is Old Man Emu. I've never been able to understand why AC recommends new wheels for taller/stiffer springs. you should only need them if you were installing larger than stock tires.

its a pain but not terrible. 4 nuts and a cotter pin, maybe a few taps with a hammer, it does help if you've got a friend to criticize I mean help you.

in our case the diff and the subframe as well as the steering rack are all kinda one interconnected unit. can't move one without the other.

thats exactly what a SFD is. the reason for it is that it lowers the cv joint angle. they've been done from 2 to 4 inches...the secondary benefit is that it also allows bigger tires as well, thereby increasing ground clearance.

in my research I did find an Australian company that made longer stroke struts for the R50 but they were way to expensive...can't for the life of me remember the company right now I'll have to think on it awhile (this is what happens when you get old)

correction noted.

just because you have 4x4 doesn't mean you won't get stuck..... were the front wheels not spinning? were you in 4x4 before you hit the mud or did you engage it after the rear was spinning? If you engaged 4x4 after it could be that there was not enough friction on the front wheels to get the hubs to engage, especially if the grease in hubs is a little thick. the Nissan 4x4 system is a very robust system very few people have an issue with it. Since the Pathy is new to you I bet the PO almost never engaged the 4x4 system (most people never do) so things just might be a little stiff. when I first got mine I had trouble with the hubs not dis-engaging, a few fun trips latter and everything works just fine. If your up for it, I would replace the fluid in both the front diff and the transfer case. thats probably never been done either.

a way simpler method is to find a gravel lot. in 2wd drive in a tight circle....then try an drive the same circle in 4Hi... if you can't then the 4x4 system is working. in 4x4 it is much harder to turn a tight circle because of the differential effect. I've never once "heard" my hubs engage. I trust the green light.

why go to FB when all of the relevant info i need is stored here. for people new to pathfinders any google query sends you here as well. the only thing FB is good for is gossip, idle chit chat and storing bad photos sent from a wiggling phone.....wait that also sounds like the Poho section.

yup! search koni strut insert somewhere here on the site.

yes

not knocking the SFD bro. just not always necessary for moderate wheeling. O1Silverpathy fitted 33s on stock wheels but with 1.5in spacers up front. and ya the video is on Youtube.

Fair enough B no issue, being a bike guy and a car guy is a dichotomy. I just always try and encourage people to try other forms of transport. I wasn't trying to be smug. though you have to agree that using a 5000lbs electro/mechanical machine to move 160lbs of me only a few miles seems like a rube goldberg thing. I was referring to the fact that food=gas, I figure you can go further on a cup of food than a car can on a cup of gasoline.

I think the adjustableness of the ranchos refer to the damping (how stiff or soft they are) not the length. the length is measured eye to eye at full extension.

with a commute of 6 miles why not ride a bike? that's only about 25-30 minutes? The average human can ride comfortably at around 11-13mph. yes I am a bicycle mechanic and yes I do drive to work through the winter months, but we have -40C. and yes I have ridden at that temperature and no it is NOT fun. but in the summer... Why the hell not. Parking is free and gas well, you are what you eat. I lived 7years car free, It was great but unfortunately I found I no longer rode a bike for fun and winter started to suck. now after owning the Pathy for 2 years I feel I should start riding my bike again to work. It's about 6km and takes me about 25minutes. now that the roads are getting clear and the temperatures are getting warmer, I'll be riding my bike and saving money for some much needed repairs and upgrades.

they will come in different lengths, order the ones that are longer than stock.

what comments do you feel are untrue? I agree some of the afore mentioned posts have some major inaccuracies. 1.a SFD does not get you better ground clearance. It does allow you to run bigger tires that will give you better clearance. though with just a SFD break over angle will be greater, but overall ground clearance will be the same. 2.The problem with the increased lift with just spacers and or springs is the wear on CV boots. somewhat true. The wear is also in the joints and will lead to failure.very expensive. For your truck you've already done both AC spring lift and SFD to keep the drive line within spec, as well as longer shocks in the rear to deal with longer/ stiffer springs and spacers. both of which I recommend to fit 35s. a 2 inch spacer with stock springs works out to the same as no spacer and 2inch longer springs. you've only done 3.5 inches out back with both springs and a spacer so it might not be that bad of a forward axle push and will be less in time as the springs settle out to make much difference in the handling. I also recommended trimming fenders to fit 35s the top heavy thing I do agree with. how did you clear the strut perch without wheel spacers or off set rims? my 29inch tires were less than a 1/2 inch from the perch, now a little more since I installed 1.25 spacers. (pics on my build thread) the largest tire I've seen installed on an AC lift is 235/85/16 (32")with 1.25" spacers on stock wheels. to run anything larger than that a SFD is necessary along with off set wheels and/or spacers.