bushnut

naw the bilsteins didn't come with boots. I found some Ranchos over at NAPA for $3 each. I liked fleury's idea of punching a hole in the bottom of the boot but the Bilsteins have holes in the flange that the boot attaches to. So why did I change my rear shocks? well I didn't think things through when I installed my Iron Man springs. they advertised only a 35mm lift which I figured wouldn't matter to much but it turned out to be a lot more (my ground to fender edge measurement is the same as Silverpaths with 2" AC coils) and so my stock length KYBs were sitting at max extension all the time. The ride was ok but not stellar, and it sometimes felt a little weird going around a bumpy corner. The rear axle didn't have any negative travel. Now with the two inch longer 5150s the ride is better, very subtle differences. It feels a lot more planted in the corners. and rail crossings and other bumps it feels smoother. I feel the need to do more testing

yup, you have to take the whole dam thing apart. Most people just put new ones on when they replace the struts.

thanks guys, looks like its boots for me. though now I'll have to find some at napa or some such place that fit.

I'm gonna install 5150s on the rear tomorrow, just wondering boot or no boot?

I wonder if it works better on a diesel?

growing up in a VW garage, my old man would always push start a vehicle in reverse. not sure why but maybe has something to do with gear ratios?

I'd stay away from cruiser parts.net, long story but they gave me the run around, shipping charges changed 3 times they even wanted me to send more money after the parts had arrived. on the whole VERY bad customer service.

I loaded 400lbs of concrete in the truck the other day( 4-24"x24"x2" patio pads). 2 in the trunk and 2 in the back seat as well a 200lbs co-pilot to help unload. It didn't sag to bad, 0-60km was a little slower and I could feel more body roll but I wouldn't call the IM springs soft, smooth is a better descriptor.

there is an OME dealer in quebec though there price quote wasn't that much different than getting stuff shipped up from the US.

living in winterpeg canada, for 7months of the year I have to deal with snow,ice and slush. I shift in and out of 4HI quite often haven't had any issues. though sometimes I leave it in 4HI as long as traction is sketchy. Haven't had any problems though I've only been through 1 winter with "MR.Rumble Pants" (hole in tail pipe) On second though sometimes it doesn't come out of 4HI unless I shift into N for a few truck lengths, then the light goes off and I'll shift back into D. shifting into 4LO requires me shutting off the truck, then restarting. It's a pain but where I go I rarely need 4LO.

any play in the steering rack?

I bought my Iron Man springs from Camel4x4 in the US. ya it was not cheep but worth every penny. BTW I will have a slightly used set of KYB rear stock length gas-a-just shocks to get rid of for a fair price. just ordered a set of bilsteins.

I drove a xj for awhile, a 98 with an inline 6. it got the same milage as my r50 does today. though with a little more get up and go.

Aftermarket support...walk into any off road shop or online store and most lift kits, fender flares, body armour, bumpers, suspension upgrades, gearing upgrades, wheels, and what not will be for Jeeps, Toyotas, and then domestic SUV's and trucks. Nissan is always way down the list for finding fun stuff to make your truck better. (I think its because they are so good from factory) Good off road driving will (most of the time) make ground clearance a non issue. Remember put the wheels on the rocks. if you are worried about damaging the underside of the vehicle I would look into quality skid plates, 4x4designs makes some great light weight aluminum ones. the outlander is a highway machine with 4 wheel independent suspention and AWD for safety. The R50 is a true off road vehicle it has a 2spd transfer case with low range and a live rear axle. even stock it has 2in more ground clearance than your outlander. With good quality light truck type all terrain tires and good driving (remember tires on the high spots ) you will be fine. dig around the R50 portion of the site to find what upgrades are possible. and there are plenty of videos on Youtube to watch of Pathfinders in action if you need proof. If you want a really cool, very good off road slightly bigger nissan....find a Nissan Patrol.

the comanche is at least not common like a JK. check out trail chaser on Youtube. he built one into a pretty cool overland rig.

96-2004 are all the same save for in 2001 the introduced the vq35 3.5L engine. giving more horsepower and torque. suspension and drivetrain remain the same. the 2000+ models got a new looking plastic bumper but thats it. If you've been having suspension issues first and foremost I'd would counsel you to slow down. nothing will kill your suspension faster than hitting things at speed. Second, when replacing parts get the best ones you can afford, stay away from Canadian tire type products. Aftermarket, premium quality shocks /struts and springs will not only work better they will last longer. you always get what you pay for. as far as durability between years, I believe that has to do entirely with the PO attention to maintenance. so far I'm very happy with my 2000, just did an 8000km trip to the east coast. for a 13yr old truck it does just what I ask of it. and any money I put into it is worth it because it's mine.( no bank loan).

just found an Australian 4x4 parts supplier called WWW.superiorengineering.com.au do they ship to US or Canada? haven't checked yet. but they do have 40mm lift struts for the R50. prices seem to be similar to OME. and other suspension and steering components. I'm done with suspension mods (FOR NOW) so I'll let you guys do some research.

As far as winterizing your rig, I'd recommend making sure you have a good batterie with plenty of cranking amps. If you haven't already done so switch your diff fluids to synthetic (they seem not to thicken up in the cold) and make sure your coolant is a low temp rated type. oh yea buy a car brush with an Ice scrapper (to scrape the frost off the windows)

way to go brother! looks like a great family adventure. I know the feeling,every time I head off road I come away impressed with what my truck can do. A small lift, bigger feet and some after market skid plates and you'll be set.

with 285k+ km I'd do all the maintenance first before tires or lift. 1st off timing belt and water pump! then do all the fluids (make sure to do the diffs and transfer case, the PO probably never did.) replace all the other belts. make sure your beast is running great and reliable before heading off road . The R50 is surprisingly good off road even stock. ditto there are a few R50 build threads on this site. check out Fleury's. Steves truck is a good goal to shoot for. as well he's sells some quality lift products as well as armour for your off road adventures.

fixed the muffler (again) and replaced the AirCon belt.

had to replace the right side upper cv boot yesterday. while on vacation!!! talk about suck. I could only find a "universal boot kit" in the tiny town I was in, the Nissan dealer couldn't get one for another 3 days. It was a Pain In The A, but I got it done with minimal hand tools and use of my old mans shop in about 4 hours. I probably could have done it in a parking lot but that would REALY have sucked with no jack stands. pics and a more detailed write up will follow in a few weeks when I get home.

35mm is only about 1 inch.

the back is higher. as for the front...that is why most of us also add strut spacers. I am in the middle of a 4 week trip loaded to the top with stuff,and after a break in period my Iron Man springs have not sagged lower than stock. in fact even loaded down with camping gear I am still higher than I was stock. and the ride quality is great. my question is did you replace youre struts and shock at the same time or did you just re-install the old ones.

such a small part to fail, yet creating so much trouble. what would cause this?