bushnut

If it's paid for and the body is in decent shape I say fix it, when you can do the work yourself you'll save even more money. Buying another used car is always a gamble and you won't find one for under $800.00 Our north american culture is too quick to throw things away......sorry I won't rant on that. If you love your truck and you like doing the work do it.

swapping tires is a good call. In my dad's shop I've seen tires balance perfectly but ran like crap on the road because of a broken internal belt. you wouldn't notice until there was weight placed on the tire.

need a little more info.... does the the door not open when you pull the handle or is it the lock? when the door is open does pulling the outside handle actuate anything on the latch mechanism? if the latch mechanism is sticking try cleaning it with wd40 or something then re greasing it. also when the inside door panel is off check out the linkages for the door handle and make sure they are all working fine... if it has anything to do with the electric locking mechanism maybe some one else can lend a hand. that stuff i'm not to familiar with.

from the rust pattern it looks like that 95 was half submerged for a while....katrina car?

sounds like this is a good way to justify more clearance and some mud terrains!

I'd go KYB they have good reviews and you can find them for reasonable prices. I'd go ahead and pick up the isolator and strut bearing but would hope to re-use the originals if they are in good condition. you might also need dust boots and bump stops ( I know mine does.) as far as springs go OME...small lift and able to handle a heavier load. everyone who has them seems to like the ride. hope this helps

Ya pics already! and don't forget the inside run and how it finally reaches the throttle body!

I may have invented some new "Bad Words". Took it out for a long highway drive today and did over 300km on just over half a tank! what a difference. before I'd only get about 200km/half tank. and it's quieter to boot!

things the owners manual doesn't tell you.....how much weight you can put on the roof rack....how to slide roof rack bars....what the wade depth is...what the approach /break over and departure angles are...how much suspension travel there is....etc... it does however tell you how to set the clock in the radio that is no longer in the truck...

SUCCESS!!! Finally got around to replacing #5 and 6 spark plugs. did #5 while the engine was still a little warm and it came right out! However #6 took almost 4 hours.....with a mirror and a light I could see that someone in the past had bent the spark plug and some of the porcelain was broken off and laying in the bottom of the hole keeping the socket from engaging. with some wire and an air compressor I was able to dislodge all of the broken bits and fit the socket on. then came the fun part with loosen/ tighten/spray with brake free/ loosen tighten cycle until it came out. It did end up coming out in 2 pieces ( I almost sh*t myself when the top part fell off) but then the rest came out easy needless to say I used high temp anti seize when I put the new ones in.

were there no warning signs? odd noises? CEL? temp going way up? a few days of rough idle? to just fail like that is scary. hope you find a new engine to swap. don't crush a good vehicle. there are few of them left.

that ride looks great!

I think I just drooled on my Keyboard.

All SUVs are glorified station wagons. we just don't like to admit it.... I wonder if I can get fake wood paneling for mine?

another good Canadian Interweb parts provider is Autopartsway.ca out of Calgary. free shipping on stuff over $100. I just got a bank 2 lower O2 sensor (made by Walker) for about $75. Not as cheep as some other places but you'll save the 7% import duty on auto parts from the states.

how capable is your Pathy? well how good a driver are you? what exactly to you expect? I've driven around in 8-9 inches of snow with some drifts almost a 12" high with crappy AT tires and no issues. I've negotiated an 18" deep ditch to get to a great fishing hole, again no issues. Slow and steady with a good spotter. 40miles of gravel and washboard road wasn't so bad, Air Con a good stereo left it in 4hi traveling at about 65-70 Kph, it cornered safely and didn't mind the occasional deep gravel of the shoulder when a logging truck was taking up the whole road. So far I'm lovin' my truck. can't wait to get out and do more. my only word of caution is to keep on top of your maintenance, fix things when there broke and you will keep your truck for a long time. Just look up on youtube R50 nissan pathfinder off road 4x4 and you'll find all kinds of great videos.

too much math for me But necessity is the mother of invention! a cheep yet somewhat labour intensive front lift for an R50 would be great. When you do figure it out please post the part # and how much to cut off. Even if you found a slightly taller (say 1to 1.5 inch) lift but with a stiffer ride (so i can load more gear!) would be fantastic.

my idle does that too. but only on restart when the engine is warm. if I shut it down and run in to a store or something upon restart the idle jumps from 750 to 1200 and back but when I put it in gear it settles back to 750. I've alway thought it had something to do with the idle control sensor.

Are those numbers ground to fender or centre hub to fender? 'cause if it is ground to fender thats the same as my 13yr old stock stuff.

I've got my eye on a set of those Iron man springs as well. They are taller than stock but not so tall as the AC ones so top out should be less of an issue. I'm not looking for lift really just a better ride with a tone of crap jammed into the back. Unfortunately they don't have any rear ones. at least until the end of march, so I'll wait to order mine I don't want to pay duty/shipping twice. BTW how much lift did you get up front (measured centre of hub to top of fender arch)? Did you use longer shocks in the rear to work with the lift? If the back was too high with the WJ springs and spacer would just removing the spacer level things out? Nice work! how does it ride?

I've had my '00 SE for about 6 months now and I am impressed with this truck. I've been snow wheelin' quite a bit and haven't been stuck yet! With cheep AT tires at that. The mods I plan on doing this summer are all about making a Overland/camping truck...some storage in the back, modify the hitch so it doesn't hang so low, jerry can holder on the roof rack and some rear facing work lights. I will be replacing all the shocks /struts and springs as they are 13yrs old and kinda saggy. everything else will be just maintenance to keep her running and looking good. I do believe that manual hubs are in my future just can't decide between the Warn or the Mile Marker. If I were into more than casual off roading a serious set of MT tires would be in order. My cheep AT tires are passenger vehicle rated but are almost new so I won't be replacing them anytime soon, but when I do it will be with LT All Terrain one size up from stock probably 245/75/16.

the up side of this is that as you have learned so have we, and any others after us! hopefully the only other posts will be from mods making your ride better.

glade to hear of your success! diagnostics is the hardest part of automotive repair.

Got my front struts on friday! KYB 1 gr2 and one excell g. I know they are the same inside but why couldn't they send me 2 of the same thing? now I have to paint the silver one to match the black one . Oh yea... one more reason not to buy Canadian. I went to a local 4x4 shop and inquired about KYB gas-a-just rear shocks....they wanted over $100.00ea for them while Rockauto has them for about $50.ea even with shipping and duty it's cheaper to buy from the US. while I would rather support my local shop it seems like gougeing to me.

you'll love it!