bushnut

I'm in Winnipeg and I'm measuring from Full to the first Line. I re-start my trip meter every time I fill up.

so I know mileage may vary....but I'm only getting about 50km to a 1/4 tank. though it has been between -20C and -35C these last few days. sure i let it idle a little longer than normal, but really? I do have an O2 sensor not functioning on the exhaust but that should't make that much difference. just before it got cold I was averaging about 450km/ tank. which sounds about normal for a Pathy of my vintage. this past month I had the timing belt replaced along with a 2 tension pullys and a all of the other belts.. could they have F'ed something up? gonna check my OBD2 CODES tomorrow and see if anything is wrong.

ever figure out what blew it apart in the first place? that had to be scary. I would have sh*T my self if one of my windows suddenly exploded.

originally it was because people are asking $10,000 for a 2001 4runner in my end of the world. it was a gamble but its starting to grow on me. this spring i'll have to do something about the rust but until then i don't worry about denting it.

my 02 se is a nice scratched and unwashed black with just a little hint of rust as an accent feature.

when in trouble or in doubt run in circles scream and shout.

just realized that I have heated mirrors!!

your truck is in great shape. It would be a shame to dent it for lack of a slider. though 40lbs ea wow. though strength equals weight. as for how the look? I had to look twice to notice them.

don't hold your breath.... the days of moding stock trucks is almost over. Have you seen the 2013 line up? they all look like jelly beans on wheels. Not a true off roader in the bunch. it'll be custom build or nuthin' soon enough. everything has to be luxury this and fancy that. hell even combines have sat nav, air con, and surround sound stereo. The worst part is that all the good ol' SUV / trucks are getting pulped in cash for clunker deals so the industry can sell more unreliable and complicated vehicles.

this is super interesting as it relates to what i do in the real world (i work with bicycle suspension). Just so others can wrap their heads around this... How a strut or shock and spring set up works...the strut or shock is an oil filled chamber with a system of speed sensitive adjusting valves inside. It is what controls how fast the wheel moves up or down. The idea is to keep the wheels in constant contact with the ground for maximum traction. Engineers design the suspension with a certain amount of "sag". The shocks compress a little under the vehicles weight. This allows the wheel to "fall" into a hole (called negative travel as the shock and spring are extending) or to compress for a bump the wheel is then traveling up (called positive travel). The springs are designed with a certain compression / extension rate and are used to bring the shock back to it's neutral "sagged" position. Things go out of wack when springs and shocks wear out. I'm sure all of us have been in grandpa's old bagged out cadillac bouncing down the road. When we try and change a vehicles ride hight by swapping stock springs to longer ones we change the spring rate to which the shocks are tuned. The "top out" is the spring pushing the shock to full extension faster than the internal valving can cope with. This motion is called rebound. In the bicycle world we have shocks that have adjustable rebound features so that we can fine tune the shock to the riders weight. I guess the have the same technologies for trucks but it must be bloody expensive. The trick with suspension is to design it so that it sucks up the little stutter bumps (wash board roads) and not bottom harshly on bigger impacts at high speed, while allowing max wheel travel at low speeds to allow the vehicle to climb over rocks and logs etc.. So I guess what I'm trying to say is when trying to change ride hight by installing longer springs make sure you also install longer stroked and correctly valved shocks (struts) as well. Otherwise you'll make a great handling all round vehicle ride like a shopping cart with a wonky wheel. hope I haven't confused anyone to much.

we all know and love our pathys but how many years have you been driving one. Or if you've owned more than one, whats the longest you've kept one alive? My R50 is 12yrs old and has 207465 kms. I figure I should have it another 100000 km or 6years whichever comes first. Is this realistic or am I out to lunch?

has it been cold? is this first thing in the morning or after everything has warmed up? when was the last time you changed trans fluid or diff fluid? new tank of gas? if its summer fuel and the weather has turned cold weird stuff happens. manual or auto trans? I sometimes have a shift lag between drive and reverse if things are cold. need more info.

I thought for a second that the bloke was still in the drivers seat. hope he hasn't had to much coffee!

I paid $3800 for my 2000se and its not as clean as yours. Though with the cash for clunkers programs here in canada there is a shortage of reasonably priced used cars. I saw a bone stock 2002 2wd priced at $7999.99 the other day. Who would buy a 2wd suv? Thats like drinking de-alcohoized beer.

so i've been searching this site and others mostly looking at photos of peoples rigs,(lots of inspiration out there) then I look out the window at my pathy and think it almost looks lifted already. I'm probably the 4th owner of "Rusty" she is 12 years old. and someone may have lifted her in the past. so I guess what I need to know is, what is the stock ground clearance? I haven't been able to find that info anywhere. I measured at the centerpoint of the front diff and got about 8" would a 2" AC lift then give me 10"? sorry for all the dumb questions. 2000 R50 se

had the timing belt,water pump, alternator belt, fan belt, and two idler pullys replaced. to the tune of $800.00 should get me to 300 000 km. still need to address the thermo unit....and the rust.

thanks I appreciate all the help. the leak is still only occurring on start up at cold temps (but seeing this is Canada and its only November, I've got 4 months of cold starts ahead of me.) I might just keep an eye on it and deal with it in the spring when I can work on it in the street.

So I just brought Rusty in to have the timing belt replaced and I figured they could tackle this problem at the same time. they just called me and said that the screws holding it in are too corroded and they risk breaking it then requiring a new throttle body to the tune of $700.00. so I said just leave it. I'll deal with it in the spring. anybody have a used Throttle body for sale?

that thing looks great. how do you get around the pesky airbag sensors?

this is the part that is leaking. top picture pointed at with screwdriver. I think the part # is 16391U at least on the diagram but nobody seams to have it.

holy *&(#! looks like you've been building what I've been dreaming. I'd love to see detailed pics of the snorkel. particularly how you connected to the air filter box.

so i figured out where the coolant is leaking from. It looks like it is called the "thermo element" for the fast idle cam it only leaks on start up until the engine warms up. it only leaks a few drops but it still concerns me. is this part expensive? and how hard is it to replace? thanks guys

I need to replace the front fenders for my R50 (2000) model. anybody know the nissan part #? Parts train has some for 170.00 for the set but they show 2 different models. I need to know which one to order. thanks guys. bushnut

As for when to shift into 4Hi...I say do it BEFORE you think you need to. as long as you are not driving faster than 70km/h. the benefits of being in 4Hi far out way the extra fuel use or wear and tear. you did't buy a 4x4 for it's fuel economy. On snow and ice it is far safer to have already engaged 4HI because it'll be to late to shift when the back end is passing the front.

trany fluid was changed about a month ago, haven't done the diff, rear end or transfer case yet.