92Path_68CJ

How do you get the lower portion of the box off? I pulled all the available, bolts, nuts, and metal clips, but nothing.

I have drilled rotors front and rear from 4x4 parts.com. I love them. Before that I used NAPA Rotors.

I love mine, keep them at about 10ish psi around town. I have the on board compressor to adjust on the fly. But I've noticed under hard flex I hear air leaking from the lines....

I wanna see pics! I've never seen a pathy with crank windows and no A/C!

You never know, I've seen some real beat low mileage pathfinders.

Xtra base edition

We'll see. Dad and I keep leaning back and forth between legos and steel wheels. Legos are about 30 a piece at the local jyard when they have them.

Just bumping this to the top. Has anyone actually tried to recalibrate for larger tires since this was posted?

That make me chuckle when we first looked at it. Next month we're think five lego wheels with off road tires.

My dad's already on board for it! Now to find that money tree....

James, The tires it came with were old and cracked, but in the back were four new Achilles street tires. Not the greatest tires, but hey, they're new! Next month we're hoping to get some off road tires.

1993 SE auto with 173k. New engine and trans at 120k.

It may have been. We bought it from somebody else at Motoiq. Essentially unchanged. Idles like a muscle car, drives like an ordinary pathy till you step on it. It's not super fast, but significantly faster than stock. From what I was told (and experience driving it) the engine was built to be torquie for towing. It certainly climbs hills better than stock and the Nismo swaybars along with the Rancho shocks make turns real easy. Pics tomorrow. It has some options I haven't encountered very often on a '93 WD21 SE such as: Maplights at the rear view mirror Auto A/C (last one had it too) Lighting at the feet Factory three CD changer (and a factory cassette deck) Four wheel disk with ABS Then the usual Tire rack Power windows, doors, steering, brakes Tilt column Cruise etc.

Year of the Wagoneer would be helpful.

For the record, they eventually sold this rig. My dad (boothill2008) bought this rig today. Top notch.

That's when it's the best! I used to cruise on the freeway topless and doorless. But I did drop a coke on the freeway when I tried to rest my arm on the non existent door once...

I never go mudding, and I rarely put my doors on. I do it for looks, the open air feeling, and visibility. If I don't take them off, I can't see my rocker panels. I made the mistake of going with doors in Johnson Valley, and ended up beating my rocket panel on the driver side to a pulp.

Have you tried searching at all? I've seen a few threads about how to do this before.

Watch the video Bushnut posted. A 4 wheel drive has power sent to the front and rear wheels. Each axle has a differential which splits power, typically to the wheel with less resistance. I'm assuming you had one or two wheels free spin in the mud, with the other wheels sit still. This is what happens normally. As Bushnut said, there is more to wheeling that shifting it into gear and gassing it. To solve the issue you have, you will need to add locking differentials, spools, or limited slip differentials. Search here or elsewhere for the rundown on what's what. With differential modification, everyone has an opinion of what's better. The fact is, it's a matter of what works for you.

Good point! On my next rig I might try to relocate the cooler so I can use a fan. I overheated my last one too many times. The cooler I could fit with the bigger radiator wasn't enough to keep it cool on steep mountain roads. I'm sure you'll have way better luck, you know way more than I did then.

Just a thought on the transmission cooler, maybe go with a better cooler, and add an electric fan on a switch to help keep it cool? I've seen small fans for trans coolers before.

Try unlocking it.

Mine wasn't much, but I condensed most everything that I carried into milk style crates and used the factory tie downs in the rear cargo area to tie it down. I found milk crates to be simple, and wheeling is a lot more fun when nothing flies around at all.

Just remember steering stabilizers can help reduce steering wear but mask problems. If what is damaged is the stabilizer, it shouldn't make a difference. Steering should always been in working order before having a stabilizer. They are not band aids. That being said get some pics when you get a chance and I'm sure we can figure it out.