ferrariowner123

I kinda figured as much on the tires, why you would need anything harder doesn't make sense. And on the timing belt, how do i know which one he has? other than checking the belt, could I grab the VIN and have someone with FAST tell me which one? Thanks for the reply and the move. thanks -Kyle

Also, im trying to download a factory service manual to see about the timing belt, is there a different between a 93 and 94 that is worth mentioning, specifically in the timing area/ front of engine. Would it be wise to go a cooler thermostat while were in there? Thanks -Kyle MODS: Please move this to "General"

So a family friend is moving to mexico, and he has a 1993 Pathfinder Xe with 130K on the clock He's going to be driving about 2-3k miles down to wherever in mexico. He had read somewhere that D-rated tires are needed (harder side wall) or bring 3-4 spares. He has opted for the D-rated. But i can not really find D-rated tires at discount tires. So im assuming its something that isn't a common item. So i ask you, what tires should he get for the deserts and crap roads of Mexico. Also, to you WD21 guys, what else should he do to get his pathfinder ready for the trip? We already have an oil change, spark plugs and wires, dizzy cap, rotor, coolant flush, inspecting the t-case, trans, and diffs planned to get her ready. Anything else worth mentioning? Thanks guys, im downloading some manuals, and seeing what is suggested. Might do a timing belt while were at it. -Kyle

You have kept them greased and maintained i assume? -Kyle

Well i went home, checked the sway bar links, they wouldn't budge. So i can safely say that it wasn't them. But i did order a new steering rack bushing, but because of the break i wont receive it till Tuesday. the 27th. Which seems a bit long for Texas to Seattle. But hopefully nothing breaks as a result of this. And if it still clunks, all that is left is the mounts. Unless if it would help for me to take pictures? It doesn't clunk, but it squeaks over on the passengers side. But not clunking. Thanks for the help guys. -Kyle

Ill check it when i get home. Thanks for the reply -Kyle

So for a little while, i have asked way too many questions. Funds have restricted doing anything about it. But this needs to be dealt with. I think i have found the problem, i just wanted to confirm it. I have done some searching on here, over on nico, and talking with a few different members. But nothing that indicates my same issue. Recently while steering, going over any type of bump, or even stopping or accelerating. I get a "Clunk" from the front end. Now, i have a completely blown Steering rack bushing on the drivers side. (caused by the excellent location or the oil filter) So i just ordered a bushing, hoping that's the problem (if not, it needed to be replaced anyway) I have also read that a clunk is usually attributed to blown sway bar links? Mine look perfect, in fact all of my bushings look new. Sway bar bushings: They look mint. No cracks, nothing Ball joints: No obvious signs of leakage or issues Control arm bushings: Look fine. Tie rods. Look fine as well. The only thing i can think of is my bushing, which I've known has been bad for a while. or my strut mounts/ bushings, but can those even cause symptoms like this? Can anyone think of something that i have missed? Thanks for the help. -Kyle

I already, figured it out, if you look in some of my previous posts, i had already taken her in to the shop. $100 later, it ran better. I ran some OBD2 checks and found the Knock Senor was bad. Hopefully ordering some new parts soon. Enough crap paychecks and bull@!*% fees and rent arrangements have allowed my car to deteriorate beyond what i would like. -Kyle

I would imagine it would follow the same rules as any swap, the beauty of it is (assuming its from a terrano is the same general year) its a fairly standard for plug and play (at least it should be, manufactures generally try no to have a whole lot of different looms/mounts/clearance differences in the interest of lower costs and faster assembly time) So you would be looking at seeing it mounts the same, which means factory mounts. BOOYAH maybe you'll need to get the cluster out of the JDM car, to give you correct information if anything goes wrong. (really don't know on that one) the harness MAY need to be modified to fit in the confines of our cars. (IF they are different) For gas to diesel conversion, you may have some fuel tank/ line modification? (not really knowledgeable on diesel anything) need to get a dump pipe and exhaust made New fuel lines.( Just from the hard lines from the tank, to the rail) And then work around any clearance issues. You MIGHT run into this if the car was RHD, but thinking about that, i cant really think of why? And if you car is already Auto, even better. But if its from a Jap spec pathfinder in our gen, it SHOULD just "plug and play". But that is ALL in theory, lol But you should try it, should be an AWESOME swap if it goes well. Only thing is getting parts from japan. Not really all that helpful, just words, but hey, i try. lol -Kyle

that be awesome, but im hesitant to take my DD out on some trails. But ill take you up on that offer. For sure -Kyle

Okay that makes sense I think i have decided, that when i get around to doing the arms im just going to put OEM, if i ever get serious enough about wheeling (when the pathfinder becomes a toy) then i will invest in fleury's custom links. Thanks for the advise guys. But it doesn't really make sense to spend more a on poly when i don't really need to. -Kyle

Nice, and i just realized that it makes no sense how poly could impeded flex, i mean wouldn't they bind and then practically explode with the weight of the truck?

They sell packages? Link? thanks -Kyle

Yeah, ive changed bushings before, i know the process, i found your thread from a while ago, with those videos, and its exactly how i changed bushings before, im just wondering what i should do in terms of cost and longevity, just like everyone wants, lol

So after taking my rig in to get an alignment (FINALLY), i had them do a once over and they "said" the trailing/control arms had a lot of play (if i get the name wrong, its the arms that connect the rear axle to the car) Now i have yet to go down there an wiggle anything for fear that they were right (pathy needs a-lot more suspension parts and cant really afford this problem) And my question to you is, which style of bushing should i get, if it turns out that the bushings are bad. OEM or Polyurethane? OEM are way cheaper, are i really don't need to replace the blots that 4x4 parts includes with there kit. (don't really have any rust to worry about on my rig) Im leaning more towards OEM because they have served fine for the last 125K. I've also heard that poly makes the car feel stiffer as well. As much as i would love to replace the arms with fluery's arms (control arms, smart ass), i really cannot afford them. Thanks -Kyle

What size tires were those that were on there?

That or maybe a throttle related thing? I know when mine was out it ran like crap! My throttle position that is.

i do aswell, i think it will limit travel other than that, i dont see any issues with running stock rears? Can you? -Kyle

Im sitting in Les Schwab right now while the pathy gets a much needed alignment Keep these Duratracs sitting pretty/ full of tread. -Kyle

If they have low miles that is fine, you don't have to replace them if they are new, 98% of everyone does because they need to be replaced. Reverse rake is nothing to worried about, when we lower my Friends second Gen Mercedes Benz ML350. The rear had a much lower drop than the front (due to only having a V6, had the car been a 500 or 55 AMG (V8), we would have seen more of an even rake), but the car functions just normal, the rear shocks gave way, but that was a common problem. The only thing i can see going wrong is maybe the drive shafts getting put at awkward angles, but no more than what the SFD guys run. Im just not sure as to how the car would respond, you would probably be the first to see how the pre-runner look works. -Kyle

If you want to get something reliable, and designed for our cars, just go with OEM belts, i know that is the last thing you want to hear, but that's is the brutal truth, OEM for alot of parts for our rigs are the superior part. (as im sure you know) That my But Rockauto for me has never sold me a part that didn't fit, reliability and quality aside. They know their stuff over there. -Kyle

There is a guy over on NICO, who has ties with JDM market. His username is Sicwitit, he has been trying to get more of the JDM projectors over, he might be able to help you out. He has some JDM stuff on his pathfinder, like a grill, and some face lifted projectors. AC has an option if the JDM spec doesn't work, https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/vent-visors-off-road-vent-visors-c-65_505_332.html It doesn't cover the mirror, but they are big. Those would nice to see over on the USDM spec rigs. -Kyle

Well, our cars are not all that popular to modify, so there are not a-lot of big companies coming out with kits for lifts. As of now, you have the OME lifts .5", 1.5" (old man emu) the AC lift 2" (4X4 parts.com) and the KR fabs 4"/6" lift. and depending on what your idea of cheap is. These guys probably wont fit in there, but if you read a couple of other lift threads in the 96-04 section, its more than just springs, you need wheel spacers to clear (using stock wheels, you can also get new wheels). But its recommended that you need a camber kits to that you dont eat through your front tires. new struts and shocks are ALWAYS recommended. So that adds up quick. Plus, 31's can fit on stock height. which does add some height as well. Coil spring isolater would be a cheap alternative, but if your springs are tired (have a ton of miles) it would be wise to just replace them. probably make the car easier to sell (if you were crazy enough to SELL THESE AMAZING CARS!!). Also the NX4 spacers, the idea is that the level out the car, so you wont see much, it just reduces some of the front end rake. Snake racing spacers, are made in Australia, so they are a little cheaper, but shipping would probably ruin the deal, Plus NX4 has local forum support, so if you have any issues, you don't need to account for the 16 hour time difference (not sure what it is), but i have to wait till 11 pm to AIM my buddy in Sydney, and its the morning the next day for him. So hopefully that helps, but there are not a whole lot of reliable (or tested) alternatives to the most common AC lift. But trust me, alot of guys wish there was. AC charges ALOT for those springs, and even more to have them shipped. They know they control the market for our pathfinders, and the price reflects that. So as 01silverpathy always says, "you gotta pay to play" Which does suck, but these cars are so worth it, and can handle the modifications. Let us know if you have any other questions. -Kyle

Have you scanned for codes? I know you said there wasn't a CEL lit, but they can hide (some REALLY like to hide) -Kyle