ferrariowner123

Oh yeah, now I see the stickers and front wheels. Lol

What's the technical term for that? I feel like guys call it a roller cam, or a lifter cam.. Idk. And I didn't know the VQ was DOHC, I guess that's why is the VQ35DE not just E like ours... -Kyle

Well you'll need to make a steering linkage extention, same principle applies, just make it 3" longer. Traditionally, people make their brake lines longer. With a 3" you can probably get away with it, but better safe than sorry. You can make your own by converting to SS with an AN kit. But Krfab has a fairly solid deal on the 3 SS line youll need. And I think the only other thing you'll need besides the blocks is to make one of the PS lines a little higher mounted to avoid strain. Oh almost forgot about the rear end. You'll need longer shocks in back, stock "TECHNICALLY" works, but you'll want to get longer ones, most guys run F-350 spec shocks, as it uses the same dual eyelet design with just a longer travel. I don't remember the specs off the top of my head but I can point you in the right direction if need be. And lastly you'll need to decide how you want to get the rear up in the air. I believe there are two options now. You can go the traditional route again by getting Jeep Grand Cherokee lift Springs and modifying the perch to accommodate the design change, it's a little tricking trying to get a level stance, but it does work once you have it dialed it. Or I think Steve now offers a three inch spring spacer that would maintain the same spring rate as stock, and just relocates where the spring sits to a little higher up. Past that, put on some 33's, get an alignment and call it good! Hope that helps! -Kyle

Yeah, I'd recommend that for pressure but not temp, usually (from what I'm told,) you want a temp sensor closer to the engine pumping for oil I guess... Idk But AN Is EXPENSIVE! my planned oil relocation setup alone is pushing $250, $100 of that alone is XRP -10 hose... Hence back burner project. Lol -Kyle

Yeah, I just hate being such a nay sayer, but then again I don't want anyone to go and try something based on what i said. I hope I can add more to this when I finally get all the parts together for my conversion. -Kyle

I'd do some quick checking to see what of the front suspension is different before doing a "brake upgrade". Just see if they both use the same spindles, and hub carriers. Gives you idea of what to buy and what will work... Why am I such a pessimist in this thread.. Lol -Kyle

Double post dang it! Delete please.

Did you get my pm? And they look like they are either two different cars, or two different photos. The tail lights are different. -Kyle

What lines are you planning on running? If its AN, you can just get one of these (one on the far right) http://www.redhorseperformance.com/collections/adapters-pressure It will adapt the NPT to AN size and give you what i'd assume is an 1/8 NPT threaded port which everyone but GReddy uses for pressure sensor sizes. Or you can get what i'm going to try and make work, which is one these ebay oil sandwich adapters http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-BLUE-ALUMINUM-OIL-FILTER-COOLER-SANWICH-PLATE-ADAPTER-M20-M22-X1-5-/331197008951?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d1ce14c37&vxp=mtr It just sits between the filter and the engine, and mine gives three 1/8npt holes for sensors, BUT the stupid PS arm gets in the way by .00000000000000001 mm and prevents it from threading on smoothly to a VG33. So some modifying was necessary, but being as i didn't have an angle grinder, that project got sent to the back burner. Hope that helps.... -Kyle

Gotcha, learned a lot about this dampener, so thanks again for your advice. -Kyle

Glad you found the clutch delete plate, it's the safest way to go when wiring in accessories, just make sure that you don't wire rubing against metal, as that is what causes the short that cigarguy mentioned. Usually you just drill a hole thought that plate and put a grommet on it and run the wires through that. -Kyle

There are a few options, You could run them in tandem with the fogs and have them turn on at the same time, using the factory switch, would probably want to run a relay though, so a little bit more wiring but nothing extreme. As far going through the firewall if have an automatic, you can drill a hole in the clutch delete plate. And it's very straight-forward from there. Or if you have a manual transmission, like me, you can find some gaps in the upper left side of the engine bay, (passenger side) where you can fish some wires through the fender, down the side to some small holes in the passenger side kick panel. ran my sub power wire through there. Works fine. If you want to go that route, I can point you in the direction of the thread that shows you where to go as its sorta hard to describe. -Kyle

Ooooooooohhhhhhhhhwwwwwwwwww. Talk about irony. Oh well. Lol Good catch. -Kyle

All of the above are good suggestions. My usual list of things are the common ones I somehow always get. For me it's electrical. I start with battery, if it has good voltage, move on to connections. Checking for corrosion, loose terminals, rust, everything . if that's good. I start testing for failed components like starter. I just had this happen so I tried bump starting, and sure enough it fired right up. But then you can go from there. Checking for spark. Checking spark plugs. Check cap and rotor. Then move on the fuel system.. Listen for the fuel pump to prime, when you turn the ignition on, change fuel filter. And then you get into the head duty stuff like what was listed above. Checking for engine failure. So yeah, let us know what you find out. -Kyle

The two above posts just cement that no one reads my posts. Lol I had a 20.1 fill up when I ran out of gas at the station. -Kyle

Wait so what exactly are you asking? Are you worried your warns are going to be wider than 100mm and won't allow the spacer to slide into place because it will hit the warn? Because if I remember correctly, I bought a set of hub centering rings in an attempt to stop some wobbling at speed which turned out to be a wheel bearing. But they were a 100mm inner diameter, and they slide over my warns with ease, and initially sat very snuggly against the hub. So if your concern is width, you shouldn't have any issues, should fit fairly snug, but still clear and function. -Kyle

Oh oh oh!! You da man Steve! -Kyle

Even the time I ran out of gas in the gas station, my 21 gallon gas tank, only took 20.1 gallons. So yeah, you'll never fill it up, at least that's what my experience says. -Kyle

Yeah TAG (tactical armor group, I think it is) makes a couple. Gets pretty spendy with their options. You can also, get a high swing away spare. It's a swing away mount that mounts in the hitch (if the name wasn't obvious about it. Lol) But those are the only ones I'm aware of. -Kyle

For those who have bypassed the damper. Did you have any notice on pedel feel? Was it harder to get smoother shifts or were the changes harder? I'm thinking about doing mine and changing the line to SS. -Kyle

Yup, have the same wheels on my pathy, slightly different series i'm sure, but same important specs. If you tow enough to justify keeping the spacers, i say keep them then, hate the broken look of a really weighed down car aswell. -Kyle

Again, really doubt it, even if they fit, i doubt the lift and loft would be functional. But someone with a part VQ maybe you should see whats swappable? (*cough* muddfildvaynes *cough*) Im sure a local yard has a VG33 they don't need, one of my yards throwaway the higher mileage ones they have on hand when one comes in with a lower mileage. There are that many pathy's being parted!! -Kyle

It says mid 1995 because the first R50's rolled out in October of 1995. And as far as I know, there arnt any suspension changes until 98 at the earliest(I 98% sure on that) Hop on courtesy and see what the show for part Windows on the arms you need. Replacing the whole arm is easier, but I think burning out the bushings is cheaper. -Kyle

Alot of guys run the nx4 strut spacer (what you have just made of aluminum) in the front and 2" lift Springs all round. The spacer helps the level out the car after a lift, because for whatever reason, after a lift you get a wicked lean towards the front. . You could buy a full OME setup, run the spacer in the front only and have a very common setup among lifted pathfinders. And as far as alternative shock options. The ome's I've been told are valved different to accommodate the height. Guys running kyb's and ac lift report a firmer ride. So maybe the OME would be better way to go? Hopefully someone with lift experience can chime in. -Kyle P.s. if you haven't already done so, getting new wheels or spacers are usually necessary to clear the suspension when running 31's, so if you haven't already, you'll need to go down one of those routes. -Kyle