ferrariowner123

Build it yourself it is only box steel tubing and all the plans are available on the forums. But for what krfabs has, he's got a pretty good deal, you can't build the SS brake lines with AN fittings for less than what he sells them for. Plus that steering joint is pretty awesome. At that point it doesn't seem so expensive, does it? Look at this way 2" lift is around $250 so double it and you get roughly what kr is charging. That's just my reasoning though. -Kyle

This guy is one, but I'd rather see it stay on the road. Keep us posted man. -Kyle

I'm in the process of doing a face lift on my car, I'll have a bumper lying around once the swap it done -Kyle

Idk, If your cat ran fine before. Something being dirty wouldn't prevent it acting it the same as it was before the incident. I think something is still wrong. That burning smell you mentioned sounds like the key, but I can't think of anything inside the cabin that would cause an idle issue and give you a brunch smell. Unless it's right at the ECU. Hmmm -Kyle

I actaully haven't looked at it close enough, offtourroadie and I are not EXACT as i had previously thought. i have leather heated seats, not fabric, plus it make no mention of the swing away spare on there, must be assumed as part of the off road package... -Kyle

Sheesh, i thought my 96 was expensive, that's ridiculous.. Offtourroadie and i have the exact same specs (aside from color). Here is his build sheet. But then again, 30K today is $45,579!!! DANG!!! -Kyle

Crutch field will usually get their stuff right, so i highly doubt that they are wrong, But the reason the crutch adapters do not have a amp ground is because they want you to by pass the amp, if you simply run past through the amp, and you crank the volume, it will be super quiet, you can max it out and it wont be very loud. (had this happen before i started to figure out cars..) So you need to go back to the amp and figure out which wires are speaker and run those up the head unit, or better yet, figure out what is signal in and out at the amp, and just wire them together, much simpler, If that is even possible or course. since you seem to have figured out the FSM, that shouldn't be too hard. Dimmer and illumination will generally do the same thing, (from my experience that is true). For the decks that i have worked with, they don't dim the head unit so much as switch it from day mode to night mode. -Kyle

Sorry should have explained it, i know that the side molding is true for the pre-facelift cars. Since the sig pic of the OP seems to be an pre-facelift -Kyle

LE's have the side molding and Se's and XE's have fender flares.

If you have tweeters you have an amplifier, simple as that. It's located in the back behind the brake like relays. -Kyle

As compared to what? What is your baseline mileage from previous fill ups? -Kyle

Thats actually very encouraging to hear, because i personally prefer my manual seats, its so easy to find my position every time, all the way back and get the angle just right, little bit of lumbar and boom away i go. I really want to try retrofitting some updated platinum edition black heated cushions now on to my manual tracks!! Plus no mess of having to wire up power and memory blah, heck even the new Aventador, has manual seats. -Kyle

They look better with caps on them. probably look fairly decent on an updated model. Post pics bushnut!! when you get tires of course, what are you planning on getting? (duratracs!!!) -Kyle

Looks like Nissan made a few changes to the gauge cluster, from what i'm use to looking at. If this is what you have, then i can only assume, that the little light is the low fuel light you are talking about... I was going to say that, Yes, the fuel light is changeable, but i only have the 1997 junk one next to me, and the 1996 in my rig as reference. Which, judging by the photo i posted, are very different from your cluster. only way to know is to pull out the cluster and see if they bulb is burnt out. Although i seriously doubt it is...You could just load a 3-4 gallon container in the back and intentionally run out of gas. I did take a look at the 1999 Pathfinder owners manual, and it confirms that the warning light moved to where you thought it was for the 1999 year, and that when it turns on, "a small reserve amount will be used". I've been told that almost all Japanese cars have a 3 gallon "reserve" or when the warning light turns on. Don't know how true that is, but from personal experience (Running out of gas, waiting at Costco TO GET GAS) that seems to line up with our cars. -Kyle -KYle

Wouldn't hurt just to clean it, its a 6-9$ dollar bottle of cleaner that can only improve how the car runs (given you do it right). While it could be the MAF, whats more likely is what others have mentioned, or a sum of all these worn our parts you are replacing, contributing to poorer running engine. Either way, your rig will be up to date on maintenance for a while. -Kyle

No problem, see if you can get a hold of the updated model seats and see if just the cushion part of the updated seats, will work on your original, manual seat frames. I've always been curious if Nissan used the same cushions and track, but made them motorized for the updated model. -Kyle

I've seen Legos on first gen R50's never late models though. Here's how the part numbers go for the brake calipers for each of the years by production month 1995/10 - 1997/04: 41001- 0W701 1997/04 - 1997/07: 41001- VE400 1997/07 - 1998/12: 41001-1W200 The site i'm using then sort of stops giving information, however, it says VG33 next to all of those numbers above, and then gives this number and production date "2002/10..."(no joke that's what it says!) :41001- 1W600 and next to it says VQ35DE, so maybe the brakes changed with the engines? But i know this, devonianwalk, theexbrit and myself all run the same wheels, Pro-comp 52 Series Steelies, 15X8, 6 X 5.5 Bolt pattern and a 3.75 backspacing. Andy and i both have 96's and devonianwalk has a 1999.5. Hope that helps... -Kyle

here are some threads that show what needs to be done... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/28342-my-subframe-drop-install-thread/ http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31584-my-pathy-project-lifting/ http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/23821-subframe-drop-for-r50/ -Kyle

That's what two of blocks are for. As some of the blocks push the frame down. The last two raise it up. At least that is my understanding. I'll post some of the SFD threads I have when I get home. -Kyle

The passenger seat in my car has become famous among my friends, for its slight "hump" right under where ones tail bone would be. I've day dreamed about putting in some Recaro's in my Pathfinder, but they are like $1200 (EACH) and serve not purpose in there. See if the updated model Pathfinder seats are any better (hit up a dealership and take a seat for a while). Find one being parted out (eBay is the best resource for something like that), If you have grey interior like me, the black LE seats might looks out of place, but the tan-ish brown was the same (i think) through all of the R50. (It might have a slight tone change, so do some research). Thats all i can think of, for and easy bolt in solution, just make sure to try and find manual seats otherwise you are going to be wiring up some power ones. Which would be nice, just time consuming. -Kyle

Get yourself a flat head screwdriver and a flashlights. The clips are located here. The four corners are easy to get to, but the middle one under the logo is a little tricky. Its best to go under the "Nissan" part of the emblem (be very careful not to scratch anything during all of this), get an idea of where the head of the clip is and then "using the force", try and line up your flat head into the clips. The clips look like this. (these clips are the same through all of the R50's) Put your flat head into the slit of the clip and twist, aligning the square head of the clip into the square hole of the grille, (its best to have some light pressure pulling on the grille away from the core support, so get a buddy or Chuck Norris this all by yourself.) Dont be afraid to break these clips. Once you have all five clips freed of the grille, it should pop right off. Now these clips are going to remain on the core support of the car and need to be removed in order to be installed back into the grille. Simply push on the two tabs at the point of the clip (what my fingers are touching in the photo). Push them together and pull. Re-installing them into the grille is sort of annoying. Next to where these clips go on the grille, there will be a small, square peg that comes out, one of the sides of the square peg will be cut at an angle, align the point of the clip (with the square end of the clip facing towards the square hole of the grille) with the angular side of the peg, push down on the clip and twist. It takes some finagling but that's how I put this in. Once all five are re-installed, do whatever you were going to do to it, line up the grille to the car (again be careful not to scratch anything) using the headlights and bumper fascia as a point of reference and push, you should hear all of the clips click back into position. Check this by pulling gently on each corner and center of the grill, or by visually checking each clip point. Hopefully that made sense. Wrote this half asleep. -Kyle

If your TDC was off but teeth count was good, that means that either the crank or one of the cams did a full rotation, and it munched the valves into the pistons. But if you say it ran for two minutes, its not that. Define "racket" like a grinding, taping, etc. I've got some it could be a loose timing cover, i broke some of the oil pump mounts on my VG, so the timing cover can sometimes hit the crank and then stop all of a sudden (at least that's what i think it is.) Let us know how the tear down goes. -Kyle

I've changed my Knock sensor, its not a particularly hard job, but time consuming, took my buddy and i about 4-5 hours. Just get a Hanyes or whatever you want manual, it will clam your nerves as you go along and prevent the "do i have to take that off" debate. The last intake bolt that connected to the timing cover is really stupid, stupid location, stupid reasoning, stupid everything. Other than that, its pretty straight forward, get new gaskets, a decent knock sensor so you don't have to do that again. Thats all i can think of... Post up if you have any issues, like i said its not hard just takes a while. -Kyle

This, would really like to know this!!

Shoot me a pm. I'm heading out sometime next week. R50's for day's up here! -Kyle