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Everything posted by ferrariowner123
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Yeah, he and I made the guess that at some point in his cars life, that the owner got sick of the rear tire carrier (which from having it, is completely understandable) and removed the swing away and installed the undercarriage style. So literally all he needed was the swing away and the covers. -Kyle
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I'm the one that sent exbrit his swing away, and others have asked about installing the factory swing away but unless you have the mounting points already installed, it's genuinely more practical to buy a 1996 and swap all yours over. Because the amount of fab work involved would be insane. I'm not quite what your saying is you have the factory mounting hardware and you just need a swing away? -Kyle
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BAM!! Thats about all i can give you. sorry, not all that descriptive. -Kyle
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It's not a moving violation so I don't think you can be pulled over for it. But if you get inspections in your state. They are going to point that out. Every state and county is different. You would probably never have any issue. But i just thought I'd point it out. -Kyle
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Did you change the strut mounts? That could be it. I've been battling a similar noise for quite some time and I'm getting get feeling with each passing day that it's my bearing related problems. Or I didn't "rebuild" (ie, re Grease) my half shafts very well. But check your diff mounts, another member said he had an issue with those causing a metal on metal noise. Don't know the outcome for him, but I mentioned it to rob and he said it was a problem he has seen before with people describing the same symptoms. -Kyle
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Well what haven't you checked/ replaced recently? I'm not saying this is you, but alot of people over look checking the steering rack bushings as the stupid location of he oil filter makes the perish quicker, don't know if that's the same for the VQ's but worth a look, inner and outer tire rods, again something that should have ZERO play. Past that im at a total loss. -Kyle
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Xterra HVAC controller in R50..
ferrariowner123 replied to AtvStalker's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
If i didn't know any better i'd say it was stock, no panel gaps or crooked mounting. (aside from that MASSIVE hole where your radio should be, ) Nice work -Kyle -
yeah, i thought it was too before i started experiencing all of my speedometer and tachometer freak out sessions. But, the only change in the cluster from 96 to 97 is printed words saying "service engine soon" rather than the traditional check engine symbol, at least that's all i can find different between my 96 manual trans cluster, and the spare 97, manual trans cluster i have next to me. -Kyle
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Boom br-27, for the 2002 fsm shows how to check runout. -Kyle
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I believe it measures the amount of side to side or "wobble" that the break rotor move when looking at it from the front of the car to the back. I believe there is a range of tolerance that Nissan allows before you need to replace your wheel bearings, let me look in the fsm and see what I can find. -Kyle
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forgot about that...
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He has manual hubs, wouldn't running the hubs in 4X2 mode rule out the half shafts, and i think the drive-shaft? -Kyle
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Xterra HVAC controller in R50..
ferrariowner123 replied to AtvStalker's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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I think you and I are in the same boat with our "Wobbling" I've checked just about all bushings and joints and it all looks decent, not perfect but certainly wouldn't cause an issue. However, I'am getting prepped to replace my front wheel bearings soon, as i think that my wobble and slight whine coming from my front passenger wheel area between 25-40ish MPH, is the wheel bearings. and that after my first "off road outing" i immediately heard this new whine, so i think something might have failed during that day. That, and i replaced my rotors and pads about 2 years ago, only put about 15K on the car since then, and they are already needed replacement and the passenger rotor is warped from what i can see and feel through the pedal. But bearings are expensive to get a hold of, even from Rob, i'm looking at $260 in just the bearings and seals, so you can understand my procrastination...I bought some rock auto ones, but i think they might be for the updated model hubs, I've had them on my shelf for about a year, so if you wanna give it ago, ill sell them to you cheap, PM me if you are interested. Other than the obvious symptoms, i have no idea to check for bad wheel bearings. I think I remember seeing an episode of MCM, where they talk about wheel run out, maybe you can try and get a hold of those tools, but they are somewhat specialized so you may be forced to the dealer... But that's what I got, hope that sort of helps. -Kyle
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Good stuff right there! Sorry thrope, looks like you are going to have go the route you don't want to do. -Kyle
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Yeah, light guards can be had for 50-80 dollars on eBay, I forget the brand who made them but that's how much they were going for when I was looking at them a few years ago. Smoked looks good too, but to be legal I'm fairly sure you cannot tint the reverse lights which, in my opinion can look a little goofy. I would also suggest switching to the updated model tail lights, because they take years off the rear end of the car, but judging by your profile picture, you've got that covered, lol Maybe switching them out for QX4 tail lights, for a slightly different look? You could also get a bumper cover, they are like a grill guard but for the rear bumper, looks pretty good if you ask me. Other than that, there isn't much to be done for the rear of the cars, other than going full on fabricated bumper with d links and a a swing away. Lol -Kyle
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No, I have had my cluster apart and out several times recently and there is no cable running to it. The only "mechanical" part in my speedo gear is the gear itself where it connects to transfer case I believe.. Other than that it's electronic the whole way. I even have an early production date 96. Born in, 11/95 -Kyle
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Plastic cover next to the fog light?
ferrariowner123 replied to JoeDirt's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Uhhh, in terms of what? Adding more lights? More air flow for the air box behind it? Not much has been done. People end up just trashing it along with the bumper it seems like, in favor of a winch or custom bumper. -Kyle -
So about that. So does that mean when, for example, if I were to go from a 31" to a 33" tire, does that have the effect of gearing it up? Because the tire has a longer circumference, so it will lower engine speed (at Highway speed) but also have to make the engine work harder to get the new, taller wheels moving? Is that right? -Kyle
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Is that a stock radiator or a re-core? -Kyle
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Transmission Drain Plug, Need uggestions....
ferrariowner123 replied to ferrariowner123's topic in The Garage
Sure do, sweet, you just gave me something to do tomorrow! And then ill just ask to possibly save some time tomorrow, if the impact doesn't work, can i use my MAP torch on it? -Kyle -
Sweet, HG46!!! i think that's good, bigger number means fast acceleration i think? The SUV diff numbers confuse me with having to factory in tires and what not, I only know that I installed a 2.73:1 in my buddies E30 to go long distance driving to keep the RPM's down and get better mileage. But normally it has has 3.73:1 LSD, which is way more fun, past that that i don't understand diff gearing, -Kyle
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I take it the last two number denote the ratio? 4.3 or 4.6? -Kyle
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Nice work for figuring it out on your own, i don't know of too many people who would run out to a smoking car, get it back to their place and then tear it down to figure out whats wrong, especially with no prior experience! Bravo! And i'm pretty much in the same boat as B with this one, i agree with they complete lack of maintenance orientated design and i know nothing about the VQ engines other than when i hear about them on here, they are pretty severe issues, not much help i know. But keep us posted on what the outcome off all this is! -Kyle
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Hello all So after changing my transfer case fluid today, and recently changing both of my diff fluids not too long ago, i'm down the last thing left to change in terms of drive line, my transmission. But i cannot for the life of me, get that plug to budge, even after buying the HF adapter kit that fit the drain plug PERFECTLY, it still wont move. So i'm asking all of you, can i take either, a torch the transmission in hopes of getting the sucker lose or take my impact wrench to it? Because right now, I've got a 1/2 inch extension sitting next to me and all i need is a welder to weld that extension to the drain plug and go at it. So i'm open to suggestions, because my prying and yelling haven't worked, Thanks -Kyle
