ferrariowner123

Changed the starter out, problem solved, makes a new noise and starts up faster, woohoo! -Kyle

Yeah, I'll check the wiring, corrosion isn't much of an issue around here, but I probably will run new, thicker power and ground wiring. My new Bosch starter shows up tomorrow, hopefully doesn't take too long. -Kyle

Be careful with those touch screen radios with the built in Climate control, those have a bad habit of the screens failing and you can't see what your touching. I do know that on the Pathfinders, the climate and radio wiring is different, but someone over on NICO did a write up on how to retrofit standard radio and digital CC from a touch screen. Maybe that will help. -Kyle

Yeah after having 4 orielly alternators go out on two differnt cars, im done with anything that comes from behind the counter at orielly's I still need to actually find the starter and see how hard it will be to try and get out. Or if i should change parts along the way, like my cracked exhaust manifolds. Idk, ill have to crawl around that crampt engine bay and see how easy or hard it may be. The whole thing thats got me is that i NEVER hear about starts dieing on the R50 VG's, it really bummed me out that my pathy which has never adondoned me, left me out to hang, given it was at my house when it finaly died , but still. -Kyle

So after testing the relays, with no result, I'm ordering a new Bosch starter. No to figure out how to get the old one out. -Kyle

Compressed air with a blow gun fitting should do the trick,130 psi is a lot of force for something that got there on its own. but if you need to make a seal, getting a blow end with the rubber tip will make a good seal. -Kyle

Be careful with those KYB strut mounts and bearings, they are known to give trouble. But glad you figured out a solution -Kyle

Bahhh that's a rip off, I got a set of KYB fronts for like $120, bought OEM mounts, and bearings for a fair price and installed then all myself. The rears are even easier. Just get some quality parts and you'll be set! -Kyle

Before I start, I'm writing this from my phone,on a bouncy, shaky bus, so bare with me. So, in the last three days or so, my car has had, sort of a weak start, I compare it to the time when my battery had a dirty connection, just doesn't give over as easy as it once did. I think 2 days ago I was at my storage unit, and after unloading what I needed, it wouldn't start up. I think I tired two or three times, nothing, it made, what sounded like a low battery clicking noise so I walked around trying to find a solution, figured I would try just once more at getting it started. Boom, she fired right up. And this whole time I thought it was a bad battery connection, so I cleaned the terminals, and it still had a slower than normal turn over to start, but it started. So I sort of ignored it, but last night, taking another trip to the storage unit and nothing, wouldn't turn over. Sounded like again, the dead battery, I don't remember it even trying to turn the motor, so we checked the battery, it was getting good voltage, cleaned the terminals and tried to jump it, made the same noises, so we tried to see it maybe it was the starter, so we pop/bump started it, fired right up and drove like normal. So I parked it, and tried to start it again to see if maybe it was a a jammed starter, but I got no noise other than a faint click. So I think my starter is bad, but I just wanted to see if any of you guys had any other ideas before I buy and replace the starter. I don't feel like the starter is a problem on the VG motors. Idk, let me know what you think it is, or some other things to check, I've heard maybe it's the relay, how do I check for that? Thanks guys. -Kyle

There is a mighty mods that disproves exactly what you said...

Does your clutch squeak when you depress the pedal/disengage the clutch? -Kyle

What about getting some of those clear bra's that they make, I know eventually they wear out, but wouldn't it prevent fading and additionally protect against rock chips and other things? -Kyle

Yeah, I have a kit from turtle wax that uses a variety sand paper and polish to try and get the shine back, I haven't used it yet, but one of JDM projectors has a little bit of JDM fading so I need to fix that. -Kyle

I'm editing this to say that my early model lights are indeed glass. -Kyle

Pulling the grill doesn't really help since the condenser will still be in the way, once you pull the fan off (pro tip, pull the fan and shroud out together) and the shroud out, pull the radiator and you'll have tons of room to do what you need to. My only advice from doing it three times within a 2 week period is count your teeth, the service manual says how many teeth there should be between the two cams and the drivers side of the cam belt, the yahoo that helped me refused to use the service manual so that's why it took me so many times. The reason I say this is because the timing marks that Nissan put isn't perfectly lined up to where the points are on the cam gears, so it's easy to get out of a time. I'm using some off brand parts in my rig (wasn't interested in cars at the time, just saving money) but what others have said as far as brands is correct. Shoot me an email if you need any immediate help, I could probably do it with my eyes closed after my TB nightmare. -Kyle

That's what interesting to me, i have an early model pathfinder which i'm fairly certain has plastic (OEM) lights, and then my JDM projectors are the for the updated model and those are for sure plastic. So yeah, i'm confused. -Kyle

Hmm interesting.

ETCG Has a video on this i just remembered watching. I followed his investigation suggestions, but just removed mine all together, right after he said that the out shields only protected against debris catching on fire. -Kyle

Does this mean i can buy parts? lol Nice!! and sucks? idk, i saw "building a bumper" and went "WOHOO!!! But i too know what its like to get an accident with someone who is genuine, i rear ended someone a while back and they were super apologetic, even though "technically" it was my fault, she wanted to pay me to have it fixed. it was great, restored a little faith in humanity. But then i watched the news and lost it all again... Keep us posted! -Kyle P.S. maybe taking off the Toyota plate underneath you licence will help with the whole "Toyota pathfinder" thing.

I have a set of JDM projectors sitting in my room and I'm fairly sure that they are plastic, as well as my stock lights now. -Kyle

I'm simply adding another guy who experienced the same thing, removed the skields and have had no issues! Just passing through -Kyle

As far I as I know, the first gets had a thumb wheel that was parallel to the ground used for securing the bar to rails. The updated model, they turn the wheel 90 degrees and made them a little taller. I don't think one is more stronger over the other. -Kyle

I can't say I've done abs sensors, but when I did an engine swap on my buddies E30, we ran into some starting issues. We discovered that it wasn't getting spark due to lack of flywheel input, the E series have a flywheel sensor that mounts similar to an abs sensor, feom what we could tell it was installed, but we did a quick measurement and found it wasn't seated, my buddy threw some anti seize around the side of the sensor and it popped right in, and fired first turn. I would give that a try unless the sensor uses the sides as a ground then I'd shy away from that. -Kyle

So much to talk about, I'm just going to say, that I agree with your pin outs, pin 23 is a ground for the speed sensor, it was only giving like 1.09 volts, so it's obviously some sort of sensor, and pin 23 is connected to the speed sensor, and the troubleshooting says pin 23 is the ground for the speed sensor. But I'm going to the junkyard tomorrow and to get some 240sx plugs that site behind the cluster and connector the cluster to body harness, so that I can quickly and easily switch from cluster to cluster, I just need to get another set of pins, the 240 has the EXACT same amount of plus needed to make the stock cluster wire up, and make the new cluster work no problem. So it should (in theory), be plug and play. I'll post up if I get the thing working. It should be some time this week if I get the connectors I need tomorrow. -Kyle

Hmmmmm interesting. Well if I were in your shoes I'd grab the 02 remotes and module and see if it works, worst thing that happens is a blown fuse. What exactly is different between the old and new Gen? -Kyle