ferrariowner123

To remove the transmission, you would have to remove the transmission Crossmember, the mount sits between the Crossmember and the Trans, so it would technically be quicker to do it then, because the Trans will be out of the car. But the Trans mount is fairly easy to get to anyone. I have personally never changed mine, but from looking at it, it doesn't look like it would take very long. It's just 4 bolts. -Kyle

Pretty much what everyone has said is correct. I'm getting about 12.5 right now. But I desperately need to get my exhaust manifolds replaced. They are cracked and mess with the O2's making the AFR wrong, and cause bad mpg, another thing is our cars react very well to a decent exhaust. Also, look at manual hubs, it unlocks the front wheels from the drive line, and while you loose the on the fly 4WD, (while they are disengaged) you gain around 2-3 mpg. -Kyle

You don't even need to straight pipe it. Just cut it. It doesn't do any harm other than make the rear axle a little black. But considering $250 is what I had to pay (when I didn't know or care about cars) for my belts, that's not bad, but I doubt it's for OEM belts. -Kyle

Pretty much the only way to get just he seat bottom is to see if someone will part with it, unlikely as they are going to want to just sell the whole thing. Or buying an OEM replacement. I removed being quoted like $800 for just the bottom for my leather and heated, 96. Pretty much replacing the whole thing is the only viable option -Kyle

If tail pipe means rear resonator, then don't worry about it. Mine feel off just like yours, it serves no purpose than to quiet idle noise. IMHO, it sounds better. Has a nice little grunt now and doesn't drone on the freeway. The only that I suggest (as thanks to Karmann) is to just the pipe that comes out of the muffler off to that exhaust isn't aimed right at the floor. Exhaust will find it was into the car, and it will heat the floor up unnecessarily, just get a sawz-all and hack it off. That's what I did. Belts are something I need to take care of too, same situation, just not as bad, they ate OEM belts, and we're installed not that long ago, so for me all I should have to do is mess with the tension. That being said if it's been four years for you. You probably need new belts. Get OEM, or Goodyear Gator (I think that's what it's called) , those are the only belts I'd even consider putting on my car. Hope that helps. -Kyle

Also look and see if the bell housing's are swappable, I wouldn't be surprised if Nissan, in an effort to save some money, just made a different bellhousing to accommodate whatever differences there might be... Do note though, that the VQ engine was only available in the US. aussies and Europeans only got the VG as a gasoline option, so you might be able to get the VG Trans and transfer to work, but not the VQ, I really don't know for sure though. You've have definitely got me curious though, I know a few sites that have detailed information on pathfinders from different markets. Maybe cross checking part numbers will yield something. I'll check when I have time. -Kyle

Manual. Can't drift an auto... Well at least... Lol

The VQ and VG Transmissions are notoriously bullet proof. Guys swap the 6 speed versions of both into their drift cars over on the Silvia side of the world. I'd say that as long as your sticking with stock power and torque, I'd say you're okay. -Kyle

You're doing a diesel swap too? Do take tons of pics please! -Kyle

Why is that a bad idea? Same platform swaps are by far the easiest of any engine swaps because everything fits and shouldn't require any custom fabrication or modification. I don't see a downside other then finding and funding said parts -Kyle

There are different types? I had no idea. Or I did and was blissfully unaware. Please elaborate. -Kyle

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=576106 Get this. DNA motoring 30 shipped for a universal cooler. Sorta thinking about it myself for a power steering cooler. -Kyle

ZD30DDTi QD32ETi Were two of the three diesels in 3.0 available. And same platform engine swaps are fairly easy, considering. Everything is designed to fit. So all you'll need is the engine, wiring loom, exhaust, ECU, and any other misc parts that may be different. Like a Trans or subframe. Best way to do that is find an importer, I can't say I've ever seen most stock these engines, but it never hurts to ask. -Kyle

Sorry to hear man, never fun, I'd be furious if that happen to me. If it's not too soon, I'd be willing to buy some parts. Lol -Kyle

ZOMBIE THREAD!!! Just kidding Doesn't appear to so, if my memory serves correctly, i think he did what myself and ALOT of R50 owners did, which is put new wheels, the popular choice is to go with Pro Comp wheels, the stand early R50 offset is 6" and alot of guys end up going to something with 3.75" back spacing, pushing the wheels much farther out, giving it a VERY aggressive stance. -Kyle

Derek is in Washington? How was I unaware of this!?!? -Kyle

Man, i got all excited and then realized i have to wait.... just kidding, i can wait....i hope. haha -Kyle

Convincing done, sign me up. lol -Kyle

When would expect a payment for the remaining amount? I'm really considering this, talk me into it. -Kyle

Peace of cake, Undo the hose, take off the fan shroud (pro tip, let it rest on the fan) and then remove the two screw that hold the rad brackets, and slide the pile out!! Easy peasy -Kyle

Its probably similar to what Dustin did with his front bash/bull/light bar, there is A-TON of space behind the front bumper of a preface lifted R50, and i can only assume there is even more with the pumped up one they gave the updated model. So if i had to guess, measure twice, cut, test fit, repeat was his motto.... -Kyle

Couldn't have said it better myself. -Kyle

I'm %99 sure it sits between the trans cross member and the trans. Its a steel shrouded rubber thingy that sits fairly well hidden in the cross member. -Kyle

Doesn't get much better than the new CTS-V wagon. Plus the LS-A.... -Kyle