ferrariowner123

I just installed thar axxess thing in a buddies Xterra, biggest PITA I have ever delt with, and Metra's help line hours weren't helping. I was only getting volume and and down working and none of the other controls would do what there were suppose to do. Gave them a call, told me to do a few different things after several phone calls. And ended up with having less work than when I started. But on X, the steering wheel control had their own dedicated plug, they were indeed 16 pins, but only two were used, a yellow with red stripe and yellow with black stripe, is their not one those anywhere on your pathy? -Kyle

I would look and see if it's just the KA series throttle body, because then that will help in finding one, because a couple cars came with the KA other than the 240,base model first Gen Xterra's come to mind... -Kyle

Only thing I can think of is you put the belt on a little too tight... Maybe check that again? -Kyle

Set the video to public or to allow only those who have the link can watch it. -Kyle

I live in Sammamish, and I've had, as well as a couple other Nissan friends (xterra's and maxima's) have great success with Morgan motors on mall Street in Issaquah, it's a little out of the way for you, but it's were I go when I can't do something. Past that, marks Japanese auto (atleast the one in Renton on 900) had good reviews and seemed like they knew what they were talking about when I went in for something, can't remember what it was though lol. They have a location in Seattle, right off 1-5 before the I-90 interchange, do a search on that location and see how they stack up. Hope that helps. -Kyle

On a much newer car note, I think the new 4 series will be somewhat close to what the e30 is today, because the point of the 4 series is its a 3 series coupe and looks awesome. Plus this is the first generation, and it's the first with BMW's new, insane and amazing styling. With my original thought of Evo's and Sti's being classics (Evo more so since it was just discontinued), I add the 4 series, specially the M4, the hellcat series (challenger and charger), and the new corvette, that thing is amazing and in a league of its own, those will be hunted down as hard as C3's are today. I of course agree with the GTR'S and special edition Cars, because they are supposed to be collectable, that's why Nissan only makes one thousand production units of the R35 a year and a thousand of the Nismo Z cars as well. I don't know how many Nismo R35's they'll make, not alot I'd imagine. -Kyle

I second that. Check the actual oil level to see if it's okay, I've accidently done that, during an oil change and there was a small tick, cured it with a quart of oil that it needed, since it was a quart low. -Kyle

Let me just clear things up... Like i said, i learned a lesson, bought cheapo lugs, ruined my studs and i learned my lesson, I do what all of you say to do, i put the nuts on by hand, hit them with the gun on the medium setting for like a split second, or enough to have them just seated on the wheel, lower the car down, torque them to 105ft-lbs. But i just ordered 24 BRAND NEW OEM studs, replace ALL of them and get a fresh start with the studs, come pay day, its gorilla nuts from summit racing. Thanks for the help and suggestions guys. I appreciate it. -Kyle EDIT: the nuts im liking, let me know your opinions, so far i don't see an issues... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gor-71127/overview/

Thanks for the reply. And yes, I've done a number of things wrong, but all part of a learning process. I bought some extremely cut rate, and cheap lug nuts the buggered the threads on several studs and one day discount tire came in and said some were destroyed, I guess there nice impacts just ripped then to shreds. I put the stock ones back on and that ended up working for a little while, but now it's at the point we're safety is a concern, but I'm going to start clean with brand new NISSAN OEM, studs and most likely gorilla tuner style lugs. The change in lugs in the first place was I wanted chrome, just something to contrast the black with my black hubs and compliment the chrome on my warns, So yeah, hard lesson learned. Anyway, my lunch is done, I'll reply when I get home. -Kyle

Let me know if want some help with that. I've become fairly acquainted recently with the 96 cluster wiring recently. -Kyle

Exactly, and that's very common for this Era of cars, it's just easier during the assembly process, and cheaper. Newer cars are even worse. My buddy brought a used 2011 A4, in 2012, and he wanted to have the factory gps. He paid the dealer 3500 to have them plug in a laptop and enable that feature, it's insane! -Kyle

Hey roadie! How you been man?? Haven't seen you around here in a while You finished your SFD yet? -Kyle

Well, after stripping YET ANOTHER wheel stud today repainting my rear drums, I've decided to tackle this as my next project. I was thinking about getting ARP Chromoly Steel Studs, but they are $37 for set of 5, so $220 for all of my studs, just doesn't sounds reasonable. Plus they are double the length of the standard wheel nut, and yes, they only make one size of 12mm X 1.25mm RH studs. This brings me on to my next question, i want everyone's opinion on what brand of QUALITY Lugs nuts i should use, The whole reason i have to do this is due to learning a valuable lesson in buying eBay crap, and NOT to EVER do that again.... I've looked into what my local Costco uses, which is gorilla brand, they seem to be fairly nice, and available in chrome. But what has everyone else had success with? -Kyle

I've been curious to see if it would be just as simple as depinning the old and the new. I've got a side project to put a Nissan nx1600 digital dash in my pathy, so I may get bored and tackle it some day. -Kyle

Not without a serious rewiring. -Kyle

What he said And the belts are fairly straight forward, and I think you have for the ac is the right belt, but a good what to check is just see what they go around. -Kyle

2mm should be enough, according to DVW it's when you put new pads that it becomes an issue. -Kyle

Nailed it Ordinal Evo's are starting to fetch a pretty penny. So it makes sense that it's competition would as well, makes me want to get my hands on a 2.5RS, and restore it. -Kyle

Titan wheels I think work too. Dustin is running some awesome 18X8's that came on like an 08' titan, I want to switch to those but duratracs don't come in a 31X11ish tire size for an 18, all 33's and up. -Kyle

Well you have to get lifted WJ Springs to get 4 or 6 inch lift. So maybe stock ones with a little boost at the base will do the trick? Idk. I'll have to check my old threads to get an idea. -Kyle

Boom! http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-WRCSP&Category_Code=WSC

Check some of the SFD threads, I have them all saved, I'll post them when I go on my first break. -Kyle

Why is it so different? I've seen that engine up close. Everything is different. How is it even a VG motor? -Kyle

2010's use a 6 X, 4.5 nut pattern, ours use a 6 X 5.5 so you'll need an adapter that acts as a spacer to make it work. -Kyle

That's what It was! Thanks. -Kyle