ferrariowner123

Thanks, I'm loving them. Looking at all the crazy options available for 1999,like remote start, with a two way controller, showing alarm status, and Windows up or down. It's amazing! But that wood thing is sorta weird I'll give you. -Kyle

That's not really the point. The point is to keep the threads organized. But plenty of people keep their "build thread" in the members rides at the bottom of the forum, ahardbody, myself and plenty others. It's generally how every forum (I've ever visited) is done. Separate section for members rides. Either to showcase it or to show builds. -Kyle

Well, i think i may have a problem, i love JDM stuff! I recently found some Autech, and Nissan OEM Catalogs, that have ALL of the options that were avaiable for the Nissan Terrano and Terrano Regulus (QX4) in japan, in 1999 (atleast the date thats on the back) Definitely going to be trying to track down some of these options, like the bumper pole, the overhead rack, the crazy window flares, maybe the optional fog lights, and that Momo steering wheel, (i was close to getting one not long ago)... I'm crazy i know. So guys, what are your favorites? -Kyle P.S. i do have a bunch of other ones, a couple Autech catalogs for the Zenki's, but they are too big to fit on my normal scanner. I'm going to see if my work has some bigger scanners i can use and get them up.

Check fuse? It was that simple for why mine didn't work. -Kyle

Why so many build threads??? There is a members rides section for a reason...

It doesn't really matter what year is is. Slartibartfast is right, when you change the maf, it's changing the input the computer sees, which means it can't figured out the air/fuel mixture that the car needs which means it will probably run like ceap crap, assuming it's a direct swap in, which I doubt, because the current maf already fits fine with the stock intake. And even if it does flow better it's going to hit the stock throttle body and be limited right back down to near stock floe flow maybe a few percent more, which on our cars, won't even be noticeable. -Kyle

I bought mine from Rob, I don't think they are on rockauto. -Kyle

hmm, i dont know for sure, but its worth a shot. They fairly cheap OEM, and if you are regular on oil changes, i can promise, that at-least one will be gross, and probably not doing its job correctly. I changed mine, with no really steering problems, doing it on a hunch and suggestions from people on here. It looked fine, but as soon as i took it out, i knew it needed to be changed. -Kyle

I've said it before and I'll say it again, I love the look of the kouki pathfinders, especially with the grill guard! I want mine to look like that, I'm collecting parts to do it! Nice looking rid sir. What sort of options does yours have? Like the awesome wood? -Kyle

Not that i believe in Zombie's But it would similar to this... -Kyle

NO PLEASE DO NOT USE PHOTOBUCKET!! Site it terrible for hosting anything with any amount of urgency. Use imgur, or flickr, WAY better -Kyle

OKAY SOUNDS GOOD, BUT WHY ARE WE YELLING??? LOL jk Keep us posted on how it goes. -Kyle

Hey, that's a familiar photo! Lol Glad this was successful venture for you Steve. -Kyle

Holy dang! You got some rust! While I haven't done any sheet metal work before. I have had to replace hard lines before and everything you'll need can be bought at a local hardware store. Just find the same diameter tubing and a decent bender (maybe some heat on the bigger ones like fuel, so they don't kink) and just start with where the rust isn't and go from there, using the factory line. Or you can go to a junkyard and get a whole line, probably be able to score some sheet metal too, so you don't spend a ton of time making the new pieces, you can just cut what you need. Did you ever have your car inspected for the strut housing recall? If not, take it to your dealer. They will either replace what's broken, or buy it off your hands. -Kyle

That's a heck of a first post!!! Would love to see more info on this, or at least make a little more detail on what you wrote. -Kyle

its SUPER EASY, Remove bolt, remove bushing, re install new bushing, re install bolt. Given there is a little fuss getting the bushing around the rack, but its fairly self explanatory, just make sure you put the bushings on the right side!!! (YES, there is a right and a left), but its THAT easy. -Kyle

Have you tried tightening or replacing any of the dashboard hardware. And yes I get some rattles. A lot actually. But I just turn my radio up louder. Problem solved. Lol I do plan in the future to dynamat my car, to get it quieter, so I'm sure that will help, but mainly just replacing or read bracing part is all you can really do. -Kyle

I can report that redoing my headlight relay system in prep for my jdm projectors, that it does work. However it only really seems to work on the brights. I re-routed the thin factory wire that was running to the headlights as trigger for my relays, and then 14 or 12 (can't remember, but I'll be running 14 for my HID'S) to the headlights, and gave the relays a power source, and boom, worked fine. But like I said, no real change in lows (the sucked just as much as they did before) but the highs were definitely brighter. For my r50 that is. -Kyle

Missing link was a piece that went between the lower control arms, and connected the back two mounts together, and made the car stiffer. I think they stopped making them a while ago, I managed to scrape one up before they stopped making them. BUT a lot of people have made them out of tubing, by crushing the ends flat and drilled a hole where the stock bolts mount. Then reuse the factory hardware and make sure nothing is going to interfere and you're good. I'm unaware of any off road benefits, it's more for on road free, giving a more positive steering feel. -Kyle

Yeah, sway bar links, stupid auto correct. And as far as audio, the explodes have a tendency to live up to their name. Door speakers;replacing the factory door speakers front and rear is a great way to increase the audio quality of a car, especially if you don't want to replace the factory radio. I recommend the alpine sps-600 or 660,whatever version they are on, you can get those for like $80 a pair if I remember correctly. The only issue is getting the tweeters to fit in the factory location, it's not quite perfect. -Kyle

I think this site may help, someone on here posted it a little while ago, but helps to figure out when paint codes changed. http://www.nissanreference.com/pathfinder/1987-1995 -Kyle

Gonna have to try this, because I get some intermittent noise. Thanks for the write up, very comprehensive and excellent pictures. -Kyle

Yeah thjs one is going to be a real pain due how I've got everything mounted, I've started to run some of the wiring and it's a real challenge to get everything to work with each other. So I may be running something in the back or inside the car if I can't get this to work how I want it. -Kyle

I feel like I just woke up in a hospital and it's been 28 weeks since I can remember anything. There's a door saying, "don't open, dead inside" and behind the chained doors is this zombie thread.