ferrariowner123

Ahh, okay, thanks anyway, and yes they did technically make a kouki pathfinder with a swing away, I think it mainly Canada models got them. They even changed the swing away design when they did that. -

And to those who say to have my torque wrench calibrated? Where do I have that done? Do I send it to someone? -Kyle

Nope, no wheel spacers. -Kyle

I tried torquing light, I did 80 once just to see what would happen, when I bought my rig into have it rotated (same time we have been referring to) apparently I was missing 2 of them. So yeah, maybe I'll do 90 or 95 and see what happens? I did not buy stainless, nuts, I don't think, check the link I posted, I'm fairly sure it said steel, I was thinking similarly with the metal differences, should I just order some OEM ones and see what happens? Could my new noise be at all contributing? -Kyle Something is definitely awry, I'm tempted to stick my gopro on my head, and give you guys a first hand look at what is happening to the front right and show you how I normally take off my tires.

Could rust even happen that quickly I had the wheel off less than a month ago... -Kyle

What I found weird was they would only go like a 1/4 turn and then stop, really confusing. -Kyle

Yup, these are what I bought, http://m.summitracing.com/parts/GOR-71127 I just bought some random Raybestos from rock auto so I can get my rig back on the road as soon as possible. I torque mine to 105 ft-lbs. Same as what discount tire does. Would putting some oil or anti seize help? -Kyle

Put then on dry. When I take them off (I have them rotated by discount tire) it's always started by hand. And rarely tightened with impact. I torque them to Spec, as provided by DT, 105 ft lbs with my husky brand torque wrench. Almost always removed with an impact

So I went to take my wheel off today to make some minor tweaks to my headlight arrangements and I was successful only at removing one, shearing another one, and the other 4 turn a 1/4 turn and then completely stop, even with my impact they will not move! And now, the wheel is making a bad sound, like the tire is going flat, but I get no vibration in the steering, I just here the speed dependant knock, it freaked me out, and I really don't want to drive the car, plus I cant take the wheel off until I order new wheel studs and nuts. So I can probably figure out the noise but the stud issue has me completely puzzled at what the heck is happening. I replaced the whole car with brand new, OEM studs, and gorilla lug nuts. Original quality with a good brand. I'm so confused. Someone please shine some light on this... -Kyle

Hmm. Weird, mine was doing that when my knock sensor was bad. But it was with the clutch in going down Hills. But my buddies Durango did that when his tps went bad Maybe check there? -Kyle

Nice. That's why I'm happily single at the moment. And let me know if you want to sell that fender you bought. I'm still in need and greyhound has wicked cheap shipping. -Kyle

Down stream will only tell you the status of the cats, basically just trigger the CEL when they go bad. They have no influence in the performance of the engine. -Kyle

which O2 is bad?

No worries. Hit me back when you can. And your doing a cam swap? That should be awesome. I've always been curious about doing that. -Kyle

Run an ODB scanner, I know my milage was around that when my knock sensor was bad, but I didn't have any issues with loss of power. I'd clean your MAF to start. And then check the ODB. -Kyle

Hey did you get my last PM? -Kyle

Dude you keep getting more and more interesting with each post, but we need to keep this thread for the Tire fitment. Can you make a build thread in the members rides so i can ask more questions!!! PLEASE! lol and no problem, people who do something never done on a pathy will usually get awesome points from me. -Kyle

Wow, looks killer, another kouki pathy with a swing away in the US, how i want that so bad, and soon to have. Get a member rides build going, i want to see more of your rig man, she looks GREAT -Kyle EDIT: I just realized something, was your rig originally that purple/maroon color? I think i see that in the jam pic you took.

Oh. My. Gosh. That is sweet! 35's on a 2" lift! Dude you have got to post more info! -Kyle

Nice work!! Glad you got it, But that is the ideal way to do it, especially if your inexperienced. Doing my shocks was the first time i have done it, and i was like you, they are very scary indeed and can do real damage on high load springs. -Kyle

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32740-so-here-is-my-plan/?p=617677 search around please, the info is out there.... -Kyle

Cardone is new? I heard many times over they are rebuilt or remanufactured items.

is much better fixed? I'd recommend running some sort of injector cleaner, one that doesn't mess up your injectors. i think chevron has one that does great for that. gimme a second. -Kyle EDIT: This stuff, the fuel system cleaner, NOT THE INJECTOR CLEANER!! http://www.amazon.com/Chevron-65740-Techron-Concentrate-Cleaner/dp/B00092893E

If they are chattering then yes they need to be replaced. I have the autozone one. Don't really like it, but it works. I did the rebuild that Steve posted above. But I don't use 4WD all that often. -Kyle

If the part numbers are different. Then they are almost always different parts. Just buy the new one when the current one breaks. And e-fan conversion that will actually work reliability is a few hundred bucks. For the controller, getting a bung welded (don't have to do that) and then the fan itself (Taraus fans are the way to go) so yeah, long story short. Just buy the one intended for your car. -Kyle