ferrariowner123

Could be any number of things, bearings, ball joints, TRE'S, LCA bushings or strut mount/ bearing. I'd suggest doing the wheel wobble test to rule some stuff out, looking for excessive play in bearings, ball joints and steering items. -Kyle

Zenki = Before Chuki = Between/ Middle Kouki = After These are roughly what the intended Japanese meanings are, they are common phrases used in the 240sx world, used to determine what iteration of 240 you were talking about. Certain changes or alterations were only found on certain generations, so they use these as sort of slang to distinguish them. Basically i'm looking for a late model pathfinder (01-04) with the early model flares (96-99). I've been planning on doing a conversion for some time now, and I've been slowly collecting parts for two years now. And i finally got that last piece i needed recently. I'm torn for what flares i should use. The Zenki Flares ( 96-99) are a little wider but the Kouki's flares (01-04) might just flow better. I want to get a visual reference before i have them painted. I have both sets i just don't know which i want to have painted... Might have both done and just try them out and see which i like more... Sorry for the confusion. The purple one is just something i posted to give me and others (just in case) an idea of what early model (Zenki) flares look like painted to match the body, as the only generation of Zenki to come with painted flares where White SE or LE's? Not %100 sure on that, but i have seen more than a few, white Zenki's with color matched flares.. What's crazy is i think that purple is a factory color in japan!! Karmann, here is the black Zenki i saw that had Kouki Flares. It just doesn't do it for me, i don't know if its the stock XE wheels, or what, but in black, this combo just doesn't look right to me. Pictures actually turned out fairly well, considering i was attempting to get on a busy freeway while doing this (yes stupid, i know) Credit where credit is due, this flare install looks pretty clean, maybe even some customization done in the rear for a cleaner look. -Kyle

Really? I saw a black zenki with kouki flares and it looked so weird, like out of proportion somehow. I'll post the pics I took later. And they are a tad wider, that's a big reason why I want to keep them. -Kyle

Some more. So that's where i'm at i guess.... If anyone has anything else to offer, please post, i still want to see it on a kouki so i can visualize the proportions body lines outside of my head, photoshops welcome! Thanks -Kyle

Thanks for the tip, that makes WAY more sense now that i think about it. Ill probably order some new fender rubber along with the clips, hope they are cheap, im gonna need alot!! And i was able to find some pics, (mainly just color matched early gens) from my personal library of reference photos and ricer pit known are car domain (not saying everything on CD is awful, but for the most part...it is) Anyway, too tired to comment, but from the bad photos, i think i can say that i'd like to keep the zenki flares. Just paint them "Super Black"

Alright. I'll look up to do those. Atleast the second one. Lol I just did a simple hand pack, pushing the grease from the bottom (wide part of taper) till it started oozing out the top. That's what I have seen done on roadkill (when it wasn't called roadkill). I'll try and find some time this weekend to look at it and hopefully it's a simple thing, I just heard it again against a low wall, but now it's a lower speeds, like 5 mph and lower. Thanks for the help and suggestions! -Kyle

Okay, since i just recently collected one of the last and major pieces i need for my conversion, the hood. I'm at the point where i need to decide what flares I'm going to run, i have a selection of both styles, and I'm torn. It would be great to see if anyone has photos on a kouki model with zenki flares. I've seen the opposite and it looks really weird, and i just cant quite visualize it, and I'm too lazy to Photoshop it.... So if anyone has some photos of that, i would greatly appreciate you sharing it! Thanks -Kyle PS. Does anyone have any tips on actually removing the flares without destroying the fender, flares or the clips you need?

So I just did a bearing and brake job on my 96, and I just went through the drive through and heard what sounds like a dog toy squeak coming from the wheel I changed the bearing on. Is it possible I put them on too tight? I followed the FSM on bearing tension, but had to turn the bearing nut forward (clockwise) so the lock collar could line up so I put the screws on to lock the nut in place. I'm fairly sure it's the bearing since it's speed dependant, and it doesn't change when I apply the brakes... What do you guys think? -Kyle

I'd stick with the stock one, because I believe it a water cooled option. And having to plug all that up just doesn't seem like a worth while project. And if you live in a pretty cold area in winter, you have to cover the external cooler with something to insure the oil actually warms up. -Kyle

I got a set of five se wheels I'd be willing sell, if your willing to pay shipping. EDIT: I thought you were looking for stock wheel my b. -Kyle

There was a bumper design that someone came up with a few years ago that mounted to the factory tow hitch mounts, and it was beefer than all get out. You could probably pick the car up from the bumper with a crane would be okay. I'll see if I can find that old link. Exhaust is a great option for some throaty power, but I've hear a cam swap is a great option for a little bit more power and get some mileage on top of that. There just isn't a whole lot of info on it unfortunately. Looks good with some mud on it. -Kyle

Same with with above. Try and find a color matched door, and move your parts over. While mounting doors is not hard, it can be very tedious trying to get it to match up. Keeping door jam gaps even is tricky from what I've heard. The only issue with buying a used door is even if you buy a door with the same color, you run the risk of the color still matching up, with some colors this can be true, yours appears to be the silver color. Should be okay. But because every car is subject to so many different factors over its life. Every paint ages differently (or can, doesn't mean it will show you the eye) . Hence why it can look different due to age, abuse and generally the life it led before it got into your hands. But if money is tight, and the door functions, I'd just try and deal with it until you can practically afford to fix it. Just my two cents. -Kyle

SWEET!! Glad to hear!! What are the plans for it? SAS? -Kyle

Wait.... Kingman, you have an R50??? -Kyle

Nice how'd you do it? -Kyle

I had no idea tanks could be flummoxed by something as wonderful as snow. What exactly happens? Treads clog up and jam? Or no clearance for intake? Are they diesel or turbine powered? -Kyle

Im stupid, should have actually looked at the MY01 fender i have. YES you will have to remove the front bumper. There is one nut that sits under the front marker, (might have two, the one i have has an extra hole, but no signs that there was actually anything there). There is also another fastener behind the headlight. Sorry if you already tried and figured this out. -Kyle

Three in the engine compartment. Atleast one in the inner fender well. And then two behind the side marker. -Kyle

i remember when mine were new. Looked SOOO good. As do your's love the forest green too! -Kyle

Or that they make (or use to at least) struts that fit the front. That's what gets me! Lol -Kyle

Nice. Glad you found them. People really under estimate the favorites bar, mine is FULL of alot of good info on the r50. Just annoying trying to keep it all organized, but once you get past that, it saves SO much time. -Kyle

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32740-so-here-is-my-plan/ From Xplorer This is the cheapest place i found for these http://www.eshocks.com/bil_ORsb.asp?Series_Index=Q6&Manf=All&SubChar=Q and the 5100 series specific page http://www.eshocks.com/shock_ind2.asp?PN=33-185552 But it was a few years ago when i found these, so maybe somewhere else like autoplicity will be cheaper... -Kyle

Factory wiring for fog lights is there whether you got that option or not, I'm not sure if you got it on the stalk but I'd doubt it. You should (in theory) be able to buy the indicator stalk that had the fog light switch and the wiring should be there, I can't confirm that side, but shouldn't be hard to find it though to confirm that fog light wiring is in fact present under the dash. And i think that sensor is inlet temp, because the ambient air sensor is mounted right up front on that little cross bracket thingy in front of the AC Condenser. -Kyle

Not sure, I'm really hoping it doesn't make an awful high pitch squeal like the a throttle body spacer tends to do, or an Un tuned intake. Here's a pic of it