ferrariowner123

It's just a switch right? Positive pole and negative pole? Just find a pigtail for the older style you have solder it in place. Can probably find a bunch of the older pathfinders at local yards. Boom! Lol And your powder coating makes me want to por my swing away even more. That stuff is really tough! -Kyle

Is the wire for the swing away there? I feel like I remember you said it was and even the light in the dash was too? Looks good. You repainted it right? I think I might paint mine, por-15, dries reply smooth and it flipping bullet proof, hmmm giving me ideas. Lol -Kyle

For what reasons do they not recommend the 04 XE? it's basically the same as the previous years and the final year changes didn't effect the base model only the high end, optioned out models. The pathfinders only got better as the years went on, the VQ'S have proved over and over again that they are reliable, there are one or two little things to do to insure that it keeps being reliable, but as nunya has said, it's pretty well covered in the pined section. But what are your main concerns with buying it? How many miles are on it? What's the service history? Do you think it's a fair buy? -Kyle

Yeah I had a set of those on my rig for about 3 k before they blow, replaced with Raybestos Professional, and my, oh my are they good. I will say that moog TIE rod ends are nice, feel nice, smooth movement, solved my steering wobble and are thicker than OEM. -Kyle

Yeah..... But... DAMN IT LOOKS COOL! Lol -Kyle

If you guys are looking for SFD flex pics, KR has this little gem on his website. Obviously rear sway bar is disconnected. -Kyle

Oops, forgot what thread I was in, you have the VG, I can try and find the CAI kit that I mentioned for the VG if you want? -Kyle

^^ k&n makes a bolt in replacement for the VQ, and there's some other company that makes one for the VG's but after seeing no real gain on MCM, in terms of performance, I decided to just keep the stock unit. Post pics of the intake CDN_S4! -Kyle

I'll post my famous long post when I get home from work today. But by the look of it, I'd say that nissan changed bore of the later model wheels, and not by much by the look of it. Later model pathfinders with factory equipped swing aways, we're a different design, guess you found out it was than just looks. I'd just cut off a 1/16 of each side of the lip and spray it black. There isn't a trick, you're doing it right, it's just an interfere fit at this point. I'm guessing nissan put that lip thingy there to act as aid to put our big heavy wheels and tires on, in the event we need our spare. It sucks putting my Steelies and duratracs up there, but this is why i discount tire,free rotations! Lol But looks good. -Kyle

No worries, happy to help, there's plenty of additional stuff just not scanned due to how gigantic these brochures are. But the swing away can support alot of weight (on a factory delivered swing away cars) I've sat on my tire rack closed and it felt as solid as it could be. All 250lbs of me on top and it was barely breaking a sweat. So I'm guessing they had designed the latches with people climbing on these optional ladders in mind. Plus I've had my friends sit on the swing away fully open and again, it's not an issue, but they were around 160lbs. I'm not sure how my fat self would do in that case. Lol The only thing I see being an issue with this entire thing is potentially blocking the licence plate, but I guess that happens when people put bikes on the back and they don't get pulled or ticketed? Maybe I'm over thinking it. Lol EDIT: Looks like they thought of that upon a reexamination of the pictures, I bet this could be replicated with the correct wall tubing a mandrel bender? Hmmmmmm got my curious now. Lol *goes off in search of a local engineering and fabrication company* -Kyle

Looks like they modeled on a snow sled! Lol And I feel like that's one of those Japanese things where they are accommodate a look but didn't pay too much to practicality. That would be almost a foot a way from the rear of the door on any car if it's mounted on a the tire. You might as well hop on the tire if you need something off the roof. Lol -Kyle

Here they are as promised. I found these as was stated above in my JDM catalogs, which i remembered why i didn't initially scan these, they are HUGE!! and in i cant fit the whole thing on my tiny scanner. Anyway, here is what i got. i found two different styles, weather they clear the glass is anybody's guess, but ill let the pics do the talking. Bottom right-ish, is the other style. Hope this helps! -Kyle

Haha, well I found the link, but it either sold or he stopped listing it. But all is not lost as I remember seeing one in the many JDM Terrano catalogs I bought from Japan. It was quite clever as it bolted on to the tire swing away as apposed to directly to the car. I looked through some of the catalogs I scanned but I don't see it. I'll check at home and scan it when I find it. So I'll of course bump this thread when I find it. -Kyle

I've seen JDM companies making these for our pathy's, I think the companies name was 4X4 Engineering, I posted something about it to confirm my guess of what it was because it didn't look like a traditional ladder. I wonder if it's still for sale. *off to search* EDIT: I forgot to mention that it looked like it was designed to maintain the functionality of the popping window. -Kyle

http://pcoa.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=6415 Don't know how useful it may be but here is how some of the aussies went dual battery. I remember Andy (exbrit) going dual using some fancy auto switching device. Might be worth looking into. -Kyle

Had the same issues, and my big tires did me no favors. I changed my wheel bearings, inner, outer and new races. And both of my tie rods. All around the same time of doing my brakes. No more wobble at speed and little to know brake vibration. Changing the wheel bearings and brakes should help the brake pedal vibration and changing the tie rods should solve the steering vibration, atleast it did for me. Jack up your car and grab your front wheels at 12 and 6, if you get play, you got bad bearings (should have little to no play). Grab at 9 and 3, if you get play beyond the rack movement, look into the tie rods. Sorry for the quick response, I'm at work. -Kyle

They don't have one listed, but if anyone knows the thread pitch of the clutch line that would be great. I wanna say it's M10 X 1.00, but I'm not sure. I also rebleed everything and it still feels like I'm stepping in dog crap, it doesn't loose pressure when I hold the pedal down, and pumping it doesn't make a difference. So I at a loss, I think I'll just bench bleed the new Sachs master I have rather than put the 150k mile old master back in, and order a new soft line. -Kyle

Well it sounds like you've got some sensors to change, but both are the hardest to get to. I just changed my clutch and had to remove the crank sensor, it was a pain, but it is doable. But since it was part of the clutch change (since you'll destroy it when you take the Trans out, atleast that's what I'm told) so things like my exhaust, driveshafts, and aftermarket chassis supports were all removed. And the transmission was lowered at the rear to make room for my tools so I could loosens the hard to reach bolts at the top of the Trans. And even then with all of that space, I could still get maybe a 1/4 of a turn on the ten mm bolt that holds the sensor and shield in place. So, like I said it's by no means easy, but it is possible to reach. I have also changed my knock sensor, I didn't relocate it, I changed it and put it back in the correct space on that engine. But that involves pulling the upper intake, fuel rail and lower intake, it took about 4 hours, but it's totally possible. So to wrap up, it's possible to change both on your own if you are mechanically inclined and a patient enough to do the job right. Hope this info helps. Let me know if you have any questions. -Kyle

I put in a Sachs clutch, new everything. Pressure plate, clutch, throw out, and pilot bushing. Looking back I guess I didn't have to open the system, but I did, and crimped the soft line, and no it's not leaking down there. I'm gonna try bleeding it one more time and if that's doesn't work, I'm gonna put the new Sachs master I have in. -Kyle

Hey guys, So i just got done with the HUGE job of a clutch change, so far the actual change seems to be a success, but after bleeding my clutch several times, i seems to have an issue still. The clutch pedal is SUPER soft, it pretty much just falls to the floor under no pressure. It does work and i can shift gears without much issue, but it should not be this soft. I've done some research and for the most part, it seems that the consensus of what the problem is there is still air in the system. I've bled it twice, but only at the dampener and the slave, i haven't actually bled the master, which i'm assuming is, effectively bench bleeding it while in the car, i'm thinking ill just pop the line going to the dampener, bleed it, and then bleed going down the system. I just want to have someone with a little more experience confirm my suspicions and plan of attack. thanks -Kyle

I suppose i could have just said this. Im sorry if i caused confusion with my post, i was just trying to give you the scope of the project that was required. I need to stop coming on here after taking my sleeping pills, lol -Kyle

While it is, TECHNICALLY possible, i really wouldn't do it for our rigs. For the money i would just get a facelifted Pathfinder and throw a centrifugal supercharger on it, something off a Z car, and make it work. While the VQ does fit in our rigs, EVERYTHING is different. Trans, transfer case, axles, new interior pieces to make the parts function as intended from factory. Its a big list, and since there isn't a huge demand (if any) for this swap, parts are pricy as they are marketed at people who need the parts to fix their existing rig, so they go for retail prices. I've seen short blocks go for $500!! you could get a whole VG with accessories for that! The only way i see it being a viable option is if you scored a wrecked (preferably rear end collision) face lifted pathfinder with all of the wiring, sensors, and anything else you might need right there. Plus you can part out what you don't need. I did this with a buddy with an 87 BMW 325is. He paid $700 for a damaged car. Kept the engine, diff, driveshaft, much of the interior and few other misc things and ended up selling the parts he replaced out of his car and what was left from the parted car. He was left with a bout $3,000 in his pocket! Now i attach this with a warning, part outs are VERY tempting, if you have the space and patience for it. When that same friend moved to Korea, we parted his current car to help fund the trip. We ripped the thing down to its most valuable pieces in two afternoons in my driveway, and scraped the shell. Put everything in a storage unit close to my house and put everything that we had on craigslist. It took 6 months before we had enough of the stuff sold to where i could move the handful of items left into my house and wait for the last of the items to be sold. Keep in mind also, that E30's are cult cars, with HUGE followings and being practically a classic, are always needing parts, so there is a healthy market for them. The same cannot be said of Pathfinders. While there is a good crowd on here, and people who are looking for parts (me included), you would never to be able to sell EVERYTHING in a reasonable time and make some of the money back. So yeah, that's just my opinion on the matter. I day dream constantly of putting some sort of V8 power plant in my pathy. Something with lots of grunt, tons of torque down low, and a freeway gearing, because i plan on keep my rig forever. and will drive it as much as possible. Thats what i would do. The LQ4 and LQ9's from the GM trucks are readily avialable are a well known for reliabilty, and are basically just IRON versions of GM's famous LS engines. The same engines found in the Corvette, Camero, and just about every competitive Formula D drift car you will find. Hope that helps, i hate being the bearer of bad news, but i'd rather see someone put their time and effort into something that they will actually enjoy, since pathfinders are usually people's DD's or trail rigs and need to be reliable. -Kyle

Andy (ex brit) has apparently had an equally bad experience with rockauto, so it's not just you. I don't know the details as I didn't hear it directly from him, but during my many discussions with karmann, he had mentioned trying to avoid rockauto. He simply uses it for the part numbers and then goes on amazon, where they are usually the same price, If not cheaper, have free shipping and a WAY better return policy/customer service. I tried it with a recent order I had to make for some suspension parts I needed, and I must admit, it makes it hard to want to use rockauto to any extent beyond just getting part numbers. Hope the rockauto goes don't see this. Lol Sorry for your troubles, and thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts and experience. -Kyle

What exactly is preventing the bracket from being clocked? I'm assuming it's hitting the shock tower? Is there anyway to modify the tower or the bracket to make it fit? And what has KRF said about it, he's usually very helpful with his kits. -Kyle

Oh oops!! Missed that detail, haha. Sorry Rob is the guy who is a pathfinder owner in Texas, USA who works at a Nissan parts desk, provides excellent pricing, and ships internationally! Sorry once again, typical merican assumptions, -Kyle