ferrariowner123

While I haven't replaced the module on the pathy, I have on another car, and it was very easy. The pathy isn't as easy as you have to bleed the module independent of the main system, I believe there is mention of how to do that in the FSM. But what make you so sure its the abs module? Your should have some dash lights on for a failed abs system as it's suppose to check for function on every drive atleast I think it does. Have you checked for bad wheel sensors, corroded or dirty connection or improper sensor gap? Start with those first if you haven't already done so, also check the troubleshooting instructions in the FSM as it's what a tech would use if you were to bring him the car. Hope that helps. -Kyle

ANDY!!!!! YOU'RE ALIVE!!!!

That hood prop this is what the boy racers do when their HUGE V8 wont fit under the hood of where there use to be a tiny 4 banger. If it has any cooling benefits is anyone's guess. -Kyle

Good point, i missed that, I've been reading up on brake cooling ducts, and i guess that's where my head is at, thinking of a car only at speed... My bad. But there is a definite air flow in our rigs,even when sitting. When these vents will be most effective is when our fans (Either aftermarket or stock) will be running at full blast. I have a junkyard Taurus two speed fan just sitting around for whatever car i decided to put it in, because they are so effective, so readily available, and CHEAP. Sure they draw ALOT of power, but its so worth the additional upgrade of an alternator. I also forgot to mention that I've seen Z owners drill holes in the inner fender area (sort tucked up and away, under the fenders) that allow stuck air to move, something else to consider... Either way, cant wait to see what you guys come up with, our rigs have always needed some sort of extreme cooling option, hopefully we can find something. Have either of you two seen Andy' (theexbrit's) rig? Hes got some vents on his car, and he says they did wonders for his desert expeditions. -Kyle

Well, just be careful what hot parts you put them over. I know you're a smart guy i just don't want to see you stuck on a trail with a huge electrical short or something. took some Pics of my Z's to better illustrate what i was talking about. The key with something like this is airflow, you either want the hotter air to flow out, or the cooler air to flow in, (high pressure to low changes, so the latter is most likely what will happen). Notice how the right side is open, and the left side is protected. There is a good reason for this... See where the vent sits over in the engine bay, you have got the hottest part of the engine, the exhaust. Due to an unfortunate aerodynamic design, (from what i recall) the early Z's had some cooling issues, due too high engine bay temps (as previously explained). This was made standard from the factory on all 280Z's (maybe some 260's), to help get that hot air out of the bay. This will be the goal here for you, i think putting the vents over an air space will be of most benefit, allowing more airflow. I took this one to more show off how stupid Nissan was for making this open vent right over the main power fuses for the car. On the end of the that box that behind the shock tower sat two little cups that held the main these links. They were covered, but after 30-40 years that plastic got old, brittle and eventually broke, allowing water to pour in, sit, and cause sorting. So yeah, just be smarter than this, lol I know this was not entirely necessary. i'm just trying to inspire i guess, give you an idea of how the manufactures solve this issue, (keeping it mind it was 40 years ago). -Kyle

Those look like the vents on my Z! Those would look awesome if you installed them right, visually atleast. Make sure they are not a direct vent, like it's literally just a louvered panel, make sure it has some sort of piece that will aid with keeping water and crap out of there. My Z has the vents be used real early Z's had cooling and engine bay Temps (from what I'm told) and they put these vents in to help with that. The one above the brake booster is my Z has some protection from the elements, a small piece of steel that lines the bottom of it, whole the other side is just a vent, real dumb idea be user nissan stuck the fusible links right under the open vent, allowing all kinds of havoc to be had with the stock wiring! Lol I can take pics to show you what I mean. -Kyle

Oh yeah, how could I forget about the OME and Ranchero stuff. Thanks. -Kyle

Really? I've heard KYB'S ride rough! Lol I'll admit the pathy's do not have the smoothest ride, even with my big, soft duratracs the ride is less than comfy, but it's all I've ever really known, beyond what my friends drive, I see it as a blessing, as I will have a fairly low expectation of ride comfort in the future. Lol I wonder who else makes struts for our rigs, because beyond the two listed and stock, i haven't heard of anything else. All I see is KYB'S on yahoo Japan too. -Kyle

I was gonna say, now would the time to upgrade it to an quest alternator! And is black grease the sign of failing parts? I always assumed it was just because it was old. -Kyle

Excel G's and GR-2'S are the same if I remember correctly. I would look at getting nylon nuts, heck home depot might have um! And I would try and leave something under the hood for the hear, my whole hood has started to fad, but it's worse in the place where the matting stops so you can see the sticker for the AC info. When I get around to it, I'll be putting dynamat in my update hood to work as a heat reflector or gold. Depending on McClaren F1 I'm feeling when I order it. Lol -Kyle

Oh crap, my bad, I seem to loose my ability to read and then comprehend what I read when I enter your thread, lol. And that's crazy it founds it way out, proof to how much force our shocks and Springs have, I wouldn't be surprised if you found a dent in your hood structure from the nut! Lol Your going for some GR-2'S I presume? -Kyle

Okay, hold on, something doesn't seem right, first of which. You got a nylon lock nut on with your hands?? Dang Lol, assuming it was just loosely put on, should the nylon prevent the nut from turning at all?? In all seriousness though, glad your okay. That looks like a fairly scary situation. -Kyle

The point where the side of the car meets the floor, I think it a good reference point to check for level ride. As it's usually parallel to ground. But I read your post again and saw you were going for something different. I thought I didn't click reply on that post, so yeah, it was was kinda of a pointless post. Lol -Kyle

While I would love to see a Terrano stateside (especially near me in WA. hawairish is right TD parts will not be stocked, and will expensive ship and get from JAPAN, as stated above. I can't speak for the transmission from personal experience, but I don't see a lot of people with Trans issues on the forums much. -Kyle

I would love to see a pathy with a legit light bar, I've got a friend with a 3D printer, I'll bet I can get some CAD drawings made fairly easy and have him print me a prototype. Hmmm tempting, adding to the list of a million things I want to do. Lol Post up when you have progress done, I'm really excited to see this one. -Kyle

Doesn't the pinch weld that runs along the bottom edge kf the car parallel and could be used a way to get things level? Oh wait, sorry it's early, you're going for a specific look, nevermind. Still looks good! -Kyle

Man that thing looks good. I want to see a pic of your rear visibility with the new mount. Lol -Kyle

Pricing, it's simple, supply and demand. Not a lot of people are having to replace that part because the pathfinder is not that popular of a car when compared to any other vehicles in its class, or any in nissans line up. But I think your on to something with looking for loose or failing connections. Clock spring sound like it would be the highest chance do to how much moving it had to do. But do you search over to the rest of the car and just check the other connections before spending the money. -Kyle

Well, have you Googled how to change a camshaft position sensor, where it's located, how much the sensor is, or how much time a shop says it will take to change a sensor like that? Only you will know if it's an easy to change item based on your confidence in yourself and your mechanical abilities. Some people are able to rebuild engines and have it fire up the first time, and know they can do that and are therefore comfortable doing so. But then you have guys who only change their oil and brake pads, everything else they will have a shop do because they are not confident enough to fix it themselves. Only you can say where you fall along that spectrum, so do your do diligence and make the educated call. As far as price, I'm surprised how cheap these things are going for. $600 is cheap! I paid $4400 for my 96 in 2010! These things have depreciated like rocks! -Kyle

Wait the shaft that rides inside the rear axle housing and sends power from the diff is bent? That's crazy if it's true. I would assume it's bearings before something like that. Did he check those while he had the axle out to verify that it was bent? I had a buddy of mine who had some crazy rear end his old Chevy wagon that he used to haul his horse around. He told me they stopped producing the axle shafts decades ago, and he ended up having a machine shop make him a new set because they had calls about people needing the same shafts made. So if you can't confirm the Terrano's are the same, I would look into that option. As far as driving with it,I have no idea to say yay or nay on driving with it, hopefully someone can chime in on that. -Kyle

I would get a plate holder, and figure out a clever way to get the holes drilled. I'd be willing to take some measurements for you. -Kyle

My guess is nissan finally got smart and started to see the logic of just plugging/taping harness ends rather than CUSTOM MAKING a harness for every single car they make. Still bugs me that the don't make one body harness for ALL the ranges and regions that they would well there vehicles. Sure would save us alot of time.lol Does the cluster not even have a spot for the useless light? Because my 96 still has all the AT Trans stuff in the cluster just not wired or containing bulbs. Maybe yours could have been sold in similar countries where a swing away was an option and it was easier to leave the harness and for some reason his 2002 doesn't. For what it's worth, I've had on my rig since day one (5 years). and I think that light has actually been helpful is 2 maybe 3 times. With only one of those being I completely forgot about it and left it open. You'll soon realize how much of a pain a swing away is, can't open it when backed into a parking spot (most atleast). Even if you parallel with a wall on pass side, it won't open enough to get tailgate open. If you put a rim with a halfway decent fitment, it will wobble at every speed. And it's heavy! I throw everything in the back seat unless I absolutely have to put something in the back cargo. I keep it because it looks cool. I understand why the previous owner of exbrit's deleted the swing away, it gets old. Lol Sur was nice of you to help a fellow member with the install though, who was it? -Kyle

TJM..... Want!

I think they are serviceable, I've seen seen part break downs of whats inside that little box. I just recently did my clutch (don't blame you for wanting a garage to do, but considering how expensive labor is around me,i did it myself and avoided about $750 in additional labor!) But as Precise1 eloquently put, they are often deleted, and don't really affect performance, just there for pedal feel. I've thought about deleting mine, but i want to put my new master before going and deleting anything. I would just leave it, unless it has obvious signs of failure. And i feel like you are going through clutches rather quickly. i bought my 96 with 100K 5 years ago next month and my clutch disk still had a good amount of life left when i changed it at 150K. AND it had NISSAN/ EXCEDY stamped on the plate. which means it was serviced by a dealer before i bought it, or it had never been changed (doubtful but still possible). I changed mine because i could feel slipping after changes and poor changes (trans would grind and wasn't as smooth when i first got it). Well its been about a month since my change and i'm starting to feel the slipping again, so i'm gonna throw my new Sachs master in and PRAY that fixes it. I would look into servicing some of the main hydraulic components before changing the dampener. Things like the slave, master, and even the soft-line should and will go before the dampener. I've heard from a couple of experienced mechanic friends that the master will start going bad before the clutch. Don't know how true that is, but its a $30 Sachs replacement (Sachs is an OEM provider for BMW, and its been good to me, i replaced everything with either Sachs or OEM parts with my clutch). Another recommendation is getting new flywheel bolts with your new flywheel (really good idea BTW, considering that it would (SHOULD) have been resurfaced with each clutch change). But the bolts are designed to stretch and tension on the part they are holding and are single use item. You can get them from any dealer, you'll need six, should you decide to go that route, i can suggest our own Nissan parts man, Rob, hit up the vendors thread and look for the "Genuine parts" thread, you'll want to call the dealer and ask for him, usually a better way to get a hold of him. But that's all i got, hope it goes well, sounds like you've got a good hold on it though. You're definitely wise to question about replacing certain parts, because with anything they will fail. Let us know if you need anything else. -Kyle

Love that last one, love the green and mud combo, should have been a factory option! Might have missed it, but what else is in store for her, or at least planned? -Kyle