ferrariowner123

You should track down some of the JDM safari window visors. Complete the look -Kyle

i really need to stop checking this thread, makes me want all these mods EVEN MORE!! While i have no experience with SFD's, hawairish's reasoning and points make sense, the point of and SFD is just to relocate everything 4 inches down without changing the geometry of the suspension. I agree the photos look like the angled parts face outward, but it would have to the be only reason you would have camber issues, and no one else has. Seems like it should be a fairly easy thing to fix, im amazed your mechanic didn't bother trying that, if he even noticed. Looks awesome once again dude, glad its working out for you, with its teething problems, but still working out. Did you solve that shimmy you were getting? -Kyle

Dude. It's go two outlets. The one he linked to won't work, atleast how it was intended to work. And some cars have switching valves that use one motor to supply both the front and rear and switch as needed. Plus windshield washer pumps are much different than headlight washer pumps. So no, they are not all the same. Plus the cost on getting a GTR washer pump would be the same if not less as an OEM pump. Just go to a dealer and they will have it. Rob will be way cheaper though. -Kyle

So all the time then. Lol I would still pull the axles just rule out the axles, before spending anymore money. -Kyle

I would just call Rob and have him order you one. I have yet to trust some these Polish or Russian sites. No real reason it's just a huge language and distance barrier if something goes wrong. When my rear washer pump went, I just went to the junkyard and pulled on the first one I found. Still works, 3-4 years later. It's strange that yours still sorta works, mine just straight up didn't work when I bought it. Check for corrosion or a slightly broken wire somewhere in the harness. It might attribute to a weak pump. -Kyle

Hmmm, weird. Looks like you're right. Interesting, I wonder mine had the same end play as him. Pat, was it only in 4wd you got this noise? Now I'm questioning myself. I think the best thing to eliminate if it's the shafts, is pull them out and drive down a bumpy road again. Still puzzled on that end play thing. -Kyle

I have warn hubs and the play is around the same. I think it's a little less with stock hubs. But I believe the play is needed to allow for suspension travel. Don't quote me on that though. -Kyle

Bearings a blown if you are getting movement at 12 and 6, I had one of mine fail and make a awful sound, like a flat tire almost. Change both and the races, won't have to worry about them for another 150k. My bearings looked fine (even the blown one looked good to eye) but after the installation, it was smooth sailing. Order some new bearings and find somewhere to have new races pressed in. Grease um up, and should be good to go. Come to think of it I use to have a knock on bumpy roads and I haven't heard it since the bearing swap, all I hear is the tie rods and rear control arms (need to change those now). Hope that helps. It's an easy installation, just time consuming especially if you don't have a press. -Kyle

I can't watch the video right now, but if it's the half shafts your talking about, then yes it's normal to have a little play in and out of the hubs. What suspension components have you changed so far? -Kyle

If your going for an r50 with heated seats, make your own harness! My 96 seats haven given me a lot of grief. It likes to turn my seats on when it's 80+ outside. Try and find a later model with the nicer material, the early pleather stuff is really cheap feeling. The later stuff feels a little better. -Kyle

Slow down there turbo. Have a gander at this article, its might answer that one for you. http://thechronicleherald.ca/wheelsnews/26226-direct-vs.-port-injection You'd have to completely redesign the head, and while i have seen custom heads made for the L-series engine (made into dual cam), its takes MONTHS of work, countless machines (ranging from ten of thousands to millions of dollars), and then the know-how to do all this. So yeah, not happening. I'll say what others have said, go stock. You put it nicely, its a 30,000 mile road trip. With any road trip, you want reliability i had a friend drive his 150,000 mile 95 pathfinder all the way to mexico (3800 miles round trip), 2 weeks after buying it, had zero issues. Keeping it stock, with quality replacement parts, is the way to go. Look into Variable Geometry Turbo's, Doppelkupplungsgetriebe transmissions, and 2 way differentials after the road trip. -Kyle

Lower support, looking toward the bottom of the pocket Rear D piller, looking into access hole. Lower swing away mount, closest to tailgate. And i learned my clip and fastener lesson a long time ago, anytime i pull anything at a junkyard, i take just about every clip i can see. Shown is just what made its way into the box, its by no means, everything i have. Also, i broke out my Gopro and took this video, i flimed it in 1440p at 48 FPS, but i guess YouTube doesn't like that, so its maxed out at 1080p, Hope this all helps. -Kyle

Here we go. Inside the pocket area White clip is a tail light locator

Nope, I found him one at a junkyard up I frequent, and shipped it to him. I've still got mine.

Agreed. I might have some free time today. No promises. -Kyle

Have you thought about lengthening the lover control arm? I know drifters do that to help correct something when they lower the cars, maybe it's something to look into when lifting? The only thing I forsee being an issue is the driveshaft. Just a thought. But I find it weird is that you and only one other person has had positive camber issues atleast from what I can remember , and he was running 33's on the AC lift. He later found out he had frame issue from a botched repair. Maybe taking it to a body shop that throw it on a jig that has factory points logged to where the frame should be to see if, maybe your rig has some past demons (bad accident with botched repair) still haunting you. Don't know what that would cost or where to even start but I know it's out there. Again, just thinking out loud. But don't give up, your rig is such a inspiration and would hate to see you leave over something like this! -Kyle

http://www.rockfordcv.com/ BOOM! But if i remember correct, you have to use the crazy thing call a telephone to order. They are pretty old school, but worth it. If my memory also serves me correct, they have raised their prices a little, i think it was $80 for a full set (too lazy to check my folder), and now its a little more, i think. And nice to see your still around on the forum! -Kyle

Strange, maybe you got the one that was packed on a Friday, using the tool Steve suggested, i had zero issues installing my RF's. -Kyle

Okay so maybe did it wrong then, but all i know is that i did it at a buddies house, in his garage. About 4 years later he moved (to Korea believe it or not). When we were pulling out the work bench and tool chest, we found bits of blue grease from when we did my half shafts... So yeah, maybe i did it wrong, but the shafts are great, really love how thick the material was. It was a set and forget mod for sure. Steve's write up was all i needed to have the confidence to tackle this job, so thanks again for that Steve! -Kyle

Time for some Rockford thermoplastic boots! Such a good upgrade for lifted R50's, but a HUGE mess! -Kyle EDIT:Is the Xterra one that differ that you can't modify that? Probably easier than hacking up the stock box? Idk, maybe you're thinking of something I'm not.

Don't have much advice on the SFD but I may be able to give something on the intake. I've seen other members on different forums who utilize some of the stock air box, to make a sort of "ram air" style. They use the hole below the stock air filter box and plumb a tube that gives the filter more direct air. Maybe that can provide some sort of a cooler air solution? Also, isolating the filter from the rest of the engine bay is something that alot of high end, aftermarket air filter companies incorporate into their designs as some sort of an attempt to get inlet Temps down. Maybe you could attempt to replicate something like that of what the K&N filters offers to VQ equipped R50's, karmann has one on his, check his thread for a better visual incase I'm bad at explaining. Looking forward to seeing further updates! That back seat you showed is awesome! Really want something like that, but don't want to put stuff on top of that when I have to haul stuff around. -Kyle

When you say "trying to give power", what does that exactly mean? Do you hear a relay clicking or hear the motor? -Kyle

Seriously? Mine has a chattering sound that I have only recently started to hear and get worse and I'm way overdue! Huh, might have to try this today. Thanks for chiming in! -Kyle

Did the purple. Is that a fairly rare color, can't say I have ever seen it! -Kyle